My car leaks water/coolant when off, the other day it was overheating but it had plenty of water in it, it seems to struggle when going up hill, also when i use blinkers sometimes it makes a loud buzzing noise and wont work, happens sporadically...
View 1 RepliesThis has happened five times within the past couple of months. I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT. In all cases, I was accelerating while going uphill. I am in Chicago so by uphill, think expressway ramp. The Charging System Light and warning bell come on for about a second and then shuts off. When I get home, I check the battery. In all cases, it is fully charged. The battery is six months old. What could be causing this?
View 5 RepliesI drive a 1999 Malibu 6 cylinder M 3.1L, and this past week it has had a big issue. I noticed when driving to work that it started to heat higher than normal, then drop back down to a normal temp. It kept getting worse and almost overheating, so I went and bought a new thermostat (as I was told that was probably the issue) and a new radiator cap since I knew mine was old and leaked a little bit. Before putting the thermostat in, I had a neighbor look at it, and found some gunk in the coolant tank.
I took it in to get a coolant flush, but when I told the guy at the shop what I found, he told me that because these Chevy's used dexcool, if any other coolant was used, it would gel and therefore start clogging my system and that a flush would do nothing, and that I was looking at a repair that would be more than I was willing to pay.
My question for all of you is should I still go in to get someone to really look at it, get it flushed and put the new thermostat in? Or is the situation that the last mechanic presented probably the issue? I'm pretty broke, and don't want to spend money that I don't have to. But, if $100 will allow my car to run for awhile longer, I would rather do that then have it sit and die while I take the bus.
Recently I've had problems with my DRL (Day time Running Lights) Control Module. When I start the car, the DRL starts to make a loud buzzing sound. When I turn on my High Beams, it stops making the noise. It sounds like there's a relay that Isn't working like its supposed to be. So, I've thought of replacing it, but I`m not sure if its the DRL that's defective or just a wiring problem...
View 1 RepliesI've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
I have a 05 Sprinter 6 cyl gas HD that overheats a little at highway speeds over 60mph and then the rpm is limited so the van slows down to the 50 mph range even if I floor the gas peddle, I usually pull over turn off the engine and let it cool down for an hour and resume the trip. It only does that when going up the mountains while the van is loaded or on extremely long trips. Ive taken it to two mechanics both could not reproduce the problem. It has 250k...
View 6 RepliesI have an 01 mailibu that keeps overheating. I have replaced the water pump (twice) and had the thermostat replaced. The water pump and thermostat were replaced about a month ago. Last night while driving, i noticed the temp getting higher, so I turned on the heat, and instead of hot air, it was ice cold. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy Malibu overheated on the freeway the other day. I bought hey thermostat but I don't know if it is the water pump or not. Is there any way to tell without going through the elimination process?
View 2 RepliesI have a k04 turbo on the passat. (2000 b5) been having problems with it for longest time. however one night i was cruisn around and suddenly when car boosted the turbo went from the typical whistle to a whistle with a distinct buzzing noise (no to loud but very noticeable) almost like a bery dull sounding supercharger.
Ripped inlet hose off found that where the clamp is to hold on to turbo inlet was slit all the way through got new inlet hose hooked it up nothing happened. checked all turbo charge pipes and lines am going to double check again tomorrow. does this sound like a turbo issue or a leak issue. There is no loss in boost car was fixed and now runs great ... but this buzzing sound is annoying and kinda worrying me at the same time.
Problems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
View 1 RepliesI drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
View 21 RepliesI have a 2006 F550 mini bus, that I just had the head studs done, egr delete and air intake changed. Last night we took it out for a run to test it since we just installed a new fan clutch. We can here the fan kicking on and off. The problem is, we drove it say 60 miles, up and down a mountain, had no issues. We got out and ate for about an hour, and then drove it back the same way. This time on a slight upgrade my check gauges came on, and I seen the temp rising. I let off the fuel, and it dropped back down. So the rest of the way home I was easy on the fuel and made it back with out heating up again.
Today, we took it for a ride and at idle before we left the ECT was 172, and EOT 170, as we drove I watched the temps. Climbing up a fairly steep mountain, we were doing about 65mph, for about a 5 mile climb. During the climb my ECT was 201 and EOT 226, at the hottest point it was ECT 204 and the EOT was 226.
I am assuming it could be a possible water pump and or oil cooler. Reason I am thinking the water pump, is because after it over heated, I noticed if I let off the fuel quick after running I would hear a noise like a puffing sound. It was the coolant shooting out of the degas bottle. It did this several times when letting off the fuel quick, which I think was the pump was allowing the coolant to be pushed back in from the heat.
I already ordered a new pump, which if bad could also cause the oil not to cool as the pump is not pushing enough coolant? (Also I only lose coolant if it gets to hot)...
I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
View 1 Replies2000 f350 interior buzzing noise opened the door went away, shut the door after a little while came back. Then notice the dome light flickering, took the dome light bulb out it completely stopped?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Malibu, with the original radio, and I'd like to hook up my MP3 player to it. I know that I could get something to hook up to the MP3 player that would broadcast over an unused FM frequency and play it that way. But I've been in other people's cars who did that, and it lost a lot of quality that way. Any way for me to wire something up to the radio that would let me plug my MP3 into it, either with a USB cable, or even a plug like the plug on my ear buds? If so, how would I do it?
View 1 RepliesNo power to starter, all lights come on, heater etc. could this problem be a ignition relay? if so where is the relay located?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Malibu which started playing up a year ago just after I bought it. The starting became harder and harder the warmer she got, this became worse over time to the point the battery drained completely and the thing wouldn't start. A jump got it going but the battery wasn't charging from the alternator. Replacement battery and alternator solved this first problem, I thought.
Five months later she starts getting harder and harder to start again. This time I got to the mall 2 miles from home, stopped to shop, got back in and she was dead. Ok, slap on the charger...nothing. Ok, called Son and slapped the jump leads on, nothing. Called tow truck who also tried a jump, nothing. I'm wondering starter, solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, ECM, what!?
The other problem is, when it drives, around 28000 revs it hunts and dips up and down around 28000 revs. Also revving to 4000 it dies, but picks back up again and revs, hits 4000 dies and so on. Lastly, often when sitting at lights she fluctuates around 7000 revs and occasionally dies.
I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu LS 3.1 V6, the car is burning oil, and I want to know your opinion.
The car had thermostat problems and was overheated, after I changed the thermostat the engine started smoking and every body told me it was the head gaskets, but the car is not burning coolant, is actually burning oil.
When I start the car, first is the steam coming up from the tail pipe, then when the car is warm, the oil smoke stars to come out from the tail pipe.
I checked the spark plugs and all six showed a lot of oil on them, so my question is, is this because the piston rings or the engine is getting oil from somwhere else beside the piston rings. There is times when is not smoke at all, and then again a lot of smoke.
In the past I saw cars burning oil from probably one or two piston chambers, but no from all of them at the same time, and on this one when I checked, all the spark plugs were wet in oil.
I was researching about this particular engine, and looks like have some issues with the head gaskets due to overheating and the fact of the heads being made from aluminum. What can I check before taking the engine apart.
The whistling sound is fairly straightforward but there are little details that are weird.
I noticed maybe 1 or 2 weeks ago that the car would make a whistling sound, not a high pitched one but a fairly middle-high sort of tone. It would make this sound when I put the car and drive and maybe just start to gas it but NOT all of the time. By the time I am at a regular speed it has gone.
But sometimes when I slow down the sound will return and go away when the car has come to a complete stop. But this is not a constant pattern. It is on and off. Only recently could I say it has become more frequent but even then I hesitate.
Also the sound seems to definitely be coming from under the hood possibly from the back of the car but I think front may be more likely.
I read briefly on a few car/car repair forums that it could be anything from an AC compressor going out, a vacuum leak, fan belt, bad water pump, among others. I tried turning the AC on, which I have kept off for pretty much the entirety of the Summer and I heard the sound only once when I resumed driving. BUT, when I revved, the engine seemed noticeably louder; almost like it was laboring though the car drove just fine.
One other thing. Before it sounded as if the origin of the whistle was coming from the passenger side of the car. Just as of today it sounded as though it originated from the driver's side. So I'm really confused now. The car seems to drive just fine and the engine the day before sounded good if not great. I'm hoping it is nothing related to the engine.
*Few Notes:The oil was changed in June. The tires were replaced recently. Though the sound started before this. I was however driving on a really bad passenger side tire for a while.There is a short on the panel that contains the left turn signal. The bad bulb was changed and I plan to find a new panel as soon as Monday.
This isn't my car, but It is my grandparents and I drive it often to my doctors 80 miles away, and to meetings 100 miles away. Both directions are very hilly and one of the road has 3 mile inclines. 2005 Hatch, Automatic.
Fresh spark plugs, oil change, oil filter, air filter. 95k miles.
Gas mileage is ok, but it has a really hard time getting up hill. I will be almost pedal to the floor going up the hill for 3 miles at 3k RPM.
Is this something I should be turning OD off for? I checked the manual and OD wasn't mentioned in the glossary.