Malibu :: 1998 - Crankshaft Pulley Wobbling
Jul 5, 2015
Had idler pulley, tens pulley, alternator and new belt replaced all within last 5k. Was just looking under the hood while it was running and notice the crankshaft pulley was wobbling. What is the best and worst case scenario?
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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My crankshaft pulley sheared off in kia dealer now is this covered under 100000 mile powertrain warranty. I have 88000 miles on it. Heard this is a common problem with the Sorentos.....
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On a 96 ford escort 1.9 liter with automatic trans, after replacing the timing belt, how do you tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt when I only have hand tools? It needs 90 or 95 foot pounds but you can't tighten it because the crankshaft just turns around and I can't find a way to lock the crankshaft without causing possible damage to the pulley or putting stress on the new timing belt. I thought of taking out the starter motor and somehow blocking the flywheel but I don't want to cause any damage to the flywheel teeth. Is there a special tool or method to do this???????
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How to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
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The crankshaft pulley on my 2001 Camry in no longer aligned with the other pulleys, so my alternator belt does not stay on...
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How do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
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I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
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I was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
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Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform. Am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
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Have a 1992 5.7 litre silverado with a screeching noise from the crankshaft pulley when engine is warm and idling. Noise goes away when engine is accelerated. Noise remains on crank pulley when serpentine belt is off pulleys. Did replace tensioner pulley, alternator, and idler pulley. No noise noted when started cold. Serpentine belt is only weeks old no signs of damage. No rough idle or performance changes noted just a annoying noise similar to a turbo but only when no torque is applied.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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After filling the gas tank yesterday, as I was on my way to work, the check engine light came on. For the last couple of days the temperatures outside have reached 118 degrees. I have checked the oil and coolant and have resealed the gas cap as well, yet the light still remains. The research I have done leads me to believe the problem may be the catalytic converter, but I'm wondering if there is any further troubleshooting I can do without heading to a mechanic.
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I went to start my car this morning and it seemed my battery was dead. I then had my car jumped. It started fine, but the trip meter was reset. As i was driving it seemed fine. I then came to a stop at a traffic light and the engine started failing. I parked and the guages started going nuts, the engine was making a high whining noise, it sputtered a bit and then shut off. What is going on? Is it something i can do myself having little experience working on cars?
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I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
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My PT has a vibration, I've replaced rear drums, rear hub assemblies, front brakes and front rotors and all four tires.The vibration is only while going 55 to 60 MPH each time I've replaced the different parts (rotated the tires and rear drums) the wobble seems to go away for about a few miles and then comes back!I'm going to replace the front hubs and bearings now, but why would the wobble change each time I changed I've changed all these parts around. Could it be a bent rim? or just the front bearings?
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I bought a 2007 Saturn ION Coupe the end of December 2006. I have had the car 4 mos and keep experiencing a wobbling when driving between 4-10 mph (traffic). They have balanced and aligned my car 4 times since I bought the car, once a month (it needs service every month I commute 1,000 mile a week). It seems to work for a short while and then the problem continues. They have checked everything, rotors, wheels, tires, etc.
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This front end steering wheel wobbling and sometimes outright jerking is really annoying. Only happens at around 45mph, usually decelerating or coasting from a higher speed. Doesn't happen at low speeds, doesn't happen over 50. Doesn't happen when braking.
Took wheels off, tires are fine. Rotated smooth, tires about 2 years old, even tread wear, not bad. Small amount of play on driver's side front when I grab wheel. I guess this means I might have to replace that wheel bearing? Friend keeps insisting it's a warped tire. I just don't see that. No loose play in ball joint, bushings, tire rod, etc.
I guess I'll take wheel off again and check rotors. There's a little rust build up on outer ring. But it's not doing it when braking. Perplexed!
I guess I'll have wheel balance checked, but I switched the R to F out (and even tried old tires mounted on wheels switched out from my old 940). Didn't seem to make a difference, but that was several months ago.
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I have the 20th anniversary GTI with the 6-speed manual at 90k miles
I have the Dieselgeek Short shifter installed so for the most part my shifter is nice and tight/precise. However, I have some play in the shifter while it is in gear and I understand that this is normal for a car as it ages. But I assumed that the Dieselgeek would've solved all the gear slop in my shifter, and I was wrong.
So is there a part I can replace to tighten it back up?
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2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
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In the last few weeks the odor coming out of my AC is pretty stinky. Is there something I can check easily or does this require a dealer visit? Also in the last month I hear a strange "warbling" noise as if my car was on SUV tires. I do not work on my own car but would love to learn if it isn't too hard .
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