Malibu :: 1004 Chev Classic Steering Groan At Very Slow Speeds
Sep 11, 2014
Issue w/ my 04 Classic. At very slow speeds my car emits a groaning noise when turning hard left and also veers to the left at highway speeds. Tire pressure is ok. Didn't notice play in the ball joint or tie rod end when I checked.
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I have a 2004 Malibu Classic well maintained 2.2 L engine 20k miles. When the engine is warm in drive at idle, the engine shudders vibrates the dash and steering wheel. It idles smooth when cold. In drive it settles to a base idle about 575-600 RPM. When I raise the RPM with the peddle just a bit maybe 50 RPM it idles perfect. Otherwise the engine runs perfect, air cleaner and plugs are like new. Is there any way to adjust the idle up or identify what sensor controls the idle?
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i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
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The sound comes from under the dash. recently the blinkers stopped working all together so I tracked down the problem to the hazard light switch and replaced that and the blinkers are working now. However, the clicking sound remains and seems to happen more just after using the turn signal but the sound happens randomly as well.
I'm thinking it might be the turn signal assembly located on the steering column. So, I was thinking of replacing the unit (it has both signal lever and wiper/wash lever) .
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I rebuilt my turbo 350 transmission. I drove it about two blocks and checked my fluids. Everything was fine. So I drove it down town....two or three miles and I lost all gears forward and reverse. I got a ride home and left the car for about three hours then I went back to get it. The transmission shifted fine as i drove it home. I have parked the car since i cant trust the trans not to break down. As I drove to town I noticed a slight vibration in the trans area.
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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I had an '83 Chevy Malibu Classic that slowly lost power until it was nearly undrivable. I rebuilt or replaced every fuel or spark related item I could think of. I finally had the catalytic converter and O-2 sensor replaced. It ran better, then the problem returned about 8,000 miles later. Disconnecting briefly the exhaust did not work. This suggested that I was sold a new converter for nothing, but the mechanic must have done something to get it to run better. The question is: what was the problem and what did the mechanic do to improve it? (hint: I had indications of coolant contamination in the valve covers, any connection?)
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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2007 camry le with 85k miles, there is a bad vibration in the front end, the steering wheel rocks, and when you turn right or left at slow speeds there is one knock, not a clicking, just one knock, also noticed the front driver side wheel has heavy wear on the outside corner of the tire, cv joint, bearings...
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During the past couple of months, I've noticed a moaning when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds, mainly while driving in parking lots. When I turn the A/C off, the sound disappears. Is my compressor on its way out? The dealer replaced a leaky condenser in 2011. My fear is that they didn't replace it properly with adding oil back to the system.
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I have a '13 SE that I purchased new last year and recently I've noticed a noise in my steering when I am turning the wheel at slow speeds.
It's like a clunking or knocking noise when I turn the wheel either right or left all the way. I'm totally clueless as to what could cause this sort of noises.
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My 2004 Outback power steering was growling and squealing, but it was working ok at the time. I decided to replace the power steering pump before it completely failed and 3 hours later I was done. the growling and squealing was gone. However, when I backed the car out it was hard to steer at first. When I got going it all worked great, until I turned at the corner... hard steering again. When I got around the corner and up to speed everything is great again. The problem did not go away with time. Every time I turn at idle there seems to be no power steering. What is going on?
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2008 F-350 ... Getting a click in the steering wheel. Slow speeds in parking lots. Even with the truck off you can manually move the wheel and notice it has play. Maybe 1/16" - 1/8" of play
Read a few old posts saying there was an TSB on it TSB 05-15-1 ... Couple of the posts say they replaced the steering column. Wanted some input before I pull this apart. It's more annoying than anything ..
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My front right tire has been squealing when I turn. It also makes a high pitch tone when driving on the Interstate or at faster speeds. (It might be the wheel barrings - is that the same thing as a CV joint?)
Is the power steering fluid found under the green cap, under the hood? Cause I checked that and it was filled. What do I do? I don't like the squeak when I turn, nor the high pitch constant sound when driving on the interstate. Also I just posted a report about really poor gas mileage. Could these problems be connected??
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I've always had a small creaking or groan when i turn the wheel after I lowered my GLI a year ago, but i feel like it's getting louder...
What could be causing it? cause im doing my year end "maintenance" (if its worn/almost broke, perfect excuse to buy upgrades) ...
My control arms are brand new with r32 bushings as are my 034strut mounts/bearings. I checked my steering fluid level and its good.
Pic for reference of current height, might raise it .5 or so, my new job has quite the driveway entrance.
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2001 V70 Volvo Wagon 114k miles... The following in order has been done so far in the last 3 months mostly because the mechanic who did everything besides the mounts takes forever.
Rotors & pads
Replaced axle shaft
Oil & new air filter
Replaced steering wheel pump #1 - with new liquids
Replaced steering wheel pump #1 with #2
Replaced steering wheel pump #2 with #3
Supposedly checked the rack & pinion
New hoses for the steering wheel pump
Alternator replaced
All front, right and rear engine mounts have been replaced
I am about to literally come out of my skin with the subtle vibration that comes through the steering wheel, seat and floor on the drivers side. When I put my hand on the shifter I don't feel the vibration nor when riding on the passengers side. I have to stay that the car sounds like an old Singer sewing machine too, not the smooth engine sound that I had before all the repair work. There is also a very slight lag when starting off and a grown that comes from under the dash to the right of the steering wheel when in reverse and turning. My regular volvo mechanic says that the car is worn but I should keep it anyway.
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I picked up a '99 Passat 2.8 GLX tonight and the steering is making a loud squeal and groan when I turn the steering wheel. I checked the fluid and it's brown. I've owned a lot of VW's and Audi's and I've never seen brown fluid in one. I checked for a leak but there's so much oil everywhere from where the previous owner just had the cam seals, timing belt, water pump, and a bunch of other stuff changed. The level looks good, but it's just nasty and loud.
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I bought new 2009 maibu, changed oil every 3000, never had problem with car. Just thought because I have200k miles would be good to clean heads, had dealer put ina BG product. About 2 weeks after that the car see muffled and the gas peddle is slow to react,. Now six months later I am starting to smell gas. My guess catalytic converter.
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I have 2002 3.1 that has started surging at all speeds not all the time but a lot. It has no codes set. 15500 miles.
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2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
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I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu that gives through rotors every 6 months. I have replaced them 3 times now in 102,000 miles and had them turned multiple times. What happens is about 6,000 miles after I put new rotors on they warp and I get a violent vibration when braking at high speeds. I have been to 3 different dealerships and none of them can figure out why they continue to warp.
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