I had my first car 3 months and every thing was going fine, this afternoon I was leaving the motorway and heard a grinding noise in the front passenger side. There are marks in the disc but the pad looks like it has enough meat on it. What is the problem? The driver's side is fine no noise. There is a bit of a lip on the disc so I think it would need changing soon but it's not that bad.
View 19 RepliesI've had a grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, sounds like the wheel area of the car, for many months. I've driven thousands of miles on it like this, mostly because I'm broke and the car otherwise runs fine, but also because when I've taken it to mechanics, they are stumped.
I took it to a shop about a year ago and he had it for a week, had different specialists look at it and ruled out anything mechanical (wheel bearing, etc.) In the end, he threw up his hands and didn't want to give me any more free labor for his non-diagnosis, and thought he ruled out everything but the transmission. I took it to a transmission shop recently, and the guy ruled out right away that it was the transmission. He tried to diagnose the problem and was stumped too.
Here's what it is doing. It makes a grinding noise around the front passenger wheel when I accelerate. Only when I accelerate. It seems to be more active when it is cold, and after I've been driving the car for about an hour or so, it goes away. It used to only really happen when taking right-hand turns, and that is still when it is at its worst, but now it does it anytime. However--some days it is very bad and some days very light. One day--of course the day I designated to take it to the shop--it stopped altogether and drove like new. Just until I got it home. It is worse in low gears, and used to only happen in first, second and third, but now on an active day I can hear it on the interstate in fifth gear.
The shops I've taken it to can't seem to figure out what it is. Reading threads online, I've learned that people with similar problems found the problem was a bad passenger side motor mount. I have the car at a new shop right now, and I asked them to replace the motor mount, even though it looks fine. I had a long talk with the mechanic there today and he seemed a bit skeptical, but thought it was a possible solution.
Should I spend the money on a motor mount even if it looks okay? (I've also read that the Focus mounts look fine from the exterior when they are bad because they have a gel interior that busts). Especially if this doesn't work, I'm going to be back at square... um, zero.
2005 ford f150 Fx4 So last Friday I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger side front of my truck. sounded like metal on metal. So I started rooting around and noticed that bottom ball joints were shot. so replaced bottom ball joints on both side. I aslo replaced wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides, still heard the grinding. So I noticed that both axles were slinging grease, so I replaced them on both sides.
Still heard the grinding noise. So then I removed everything from the passenger side and noticed that the locking hub actuator was grinding both axle and the wheel bearing hub. So I just got done replacing that on the passenger side, put it all back together, and still grinding noise ringtones free. Also replaced the 4wd solenoid that they said gets water in it, and I replaced the check valve. And I put new Rotors and breaks. What it could be?
I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
View 2 RepliesMy 2015 Gs 350 F sport started making grinding noise from the front passanger side wheel. The noise comes from driving and not braking so im assuming its not the brake pads and its not squeaking noises as a worn out brake will sound.
View 14 RepliesSo, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
Missing the point about why to turn off the AC before engine....it is to evaporate the condensate in the interior air handling system so as to dry it out and prevent mold and mildew in the evaporator and duct work area!!!My wife does not like this either, but, it would be very difficult to clean out and kill a moldy mess in the evaporator and duct work. Part of this is also running the fan on a high setting for several minutes or more after killing the A/C compressor to blow things dry!
View 19 RepliesCar is chugging when stopped. Changed the spark plugs and fuel filter. Still does it. Now checking the distributor. I've attached a couple pictures. You can see the brown marks. Is this a problem?
View 10 RepliesMy son's car wouldn't start after parking at burger king. In off, the car has clicks just behind the floor shifter in a black module and under and foward of engine compartment fuse block. Only way to stop clicking is to move ignition switch to another position or pull IB Battery MaxiFuse in engine compartment fuse block. No activity from car in any other ignition position. no instrument panel lights, radio.
Thought ignition switch changed it, same condition. Battery checks out good. jumpstarting even using a second ground on engine doesn't change symptom. I can't find the modules that are clicking in my Chilton manual. What are the clicking modules and how can I move forward to get the car out of the burger king parking lot?
I accidentally left my car on overnight and my battery was dead in the morning, of course. I got it jumped and I drove all the way to work, but every time I slowed down at a light or for traffic the car started shaking. It has to be fairly slow before it starts happening, say 15-10 mph or lower. It never did this before the battery went dead, and it stops as soon as I gave the car any amount of gas at all. I'm hoping this is just a temporary side-effect of having to jump the battery. What the problem might be?
View 8 Repliesoil level checked by dipstick, a little low
View 7 RepliesI've got broken wires in the driver door. Do I have to solder them?
View 11 RepliesMy car won't start! When I turn the key, the car doesn't make any sounds aside from the fan turning every few seconds. The car seems to think the engine is going. All the lights and everything turn on (they're hardly turning on now after trying to get the car running for a couple of days). All the wires on the battery and to the starter are in really good shape, no corrosion or damage or anything.
I've tried starting the car while in neutral as well, still nothing. Does this sound more indicative of an issue with the starter or with the battery? My friend and I were trying to get the starter out so I could have it tested but the bolt is on very very tight (broke a wrench trying to undo it). I want to figure out what the most likely culprit is before I go too much further. Unfortunately I'm out of work right now so taking it to a mechanic isn't really an option, but I really really need to get my car fixed.
Just how common is this? How much can be done about it? Is it sometimes hopeless? Surely no one ever actually welds them up and then machines them back off?
View 19 RepliesI was driving my truck back home (70mph) and dashboard said reduced engine power so it slowed me down to 50 then 40 pulled to the side turn it off disconnect battery connected everything again turned work fine for at least 300 ft and turned off completely now it wont start... What could be ? I switch the throttle body and is not it....
View 11 RepliesTransmission problem, will not shift lever. If car moves while on P, then the interlock will not disengage. I car doesnt roll at all it will allow me to shift gears but if the cars rolls just one inch then i cant shift gears. Already replace brake sensor.
View 6 RepliesSo a co-worker needed a jump after leaving her lights on. Her car was parked on a busy road and I had to pull up next to her in the opposing traffic lane to be able to reach her battery. In my haste I put the clamps on the wrong battery terminals on MY car (hers were correctly attached). When I got in my car to start it I could see the wires were smoking and immediately got out and disconnected the cables. We ultimately needed to purchase new cables and were able to start the car. The problem is now her radio doesn't work and when she brought it to the dealer they said there is some kind of electrical system failure?!?! Is that possible? Her car works perfectly fine, except for the radio now so not sure what happened.
View 14 RepliesI just drove a car I'm looking to buy and the steering wheel was pretty loose. Not jerky, just sloppy.
I can tell it needs an alignment, but what could I be looking at in order to tighten it up?
I've learned that front ends can get pricey pretty quick.
is it possible for a loose timing chain to cause a engine miss.
View 1 RepliesI was app. 10 miles from home & engine started missing & went into limp mode & yes the light flashed . I limped it home anyway & now have a PO430 code . # 2 spark plug died & caused this , danged plug didn't have a hundred miles on it since new . Replaced that plug & everything's fine except that code . Vehicle runs great . I've also read an 02 sensor could cause this code .
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