Maintenance / Repairs :: Check Engine Light On / Misfire On Bank 1 And 2
Jun 13, 2013
Change out the penlum gasket and now the check engine light came back on and the codes are 301 and 302 miss fire on the bank 1 and 2. not sure what it is now. mechanic is lost...
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oil level checked by dipstick, a little low
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I was driving my truck back home (70mph) and dashboard said reduced engine power so it slowed me down to 50 then 40 pulled to the side turn it off disconnect battery connected everything again turned work fine for at least 300 ft and turned off completely now it wont start... What could be ? I switch the throttle body and is not it....
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is it possible for a loose timing chain to cause a engine miss.
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Wife has a 08 solara 2.4 auto. Check engine light is on for bad knock sensor in bank 1. Now car is not pulling itself, it takes off fine then shifts and falls on its face, I think its missing 2nd and going to 3rd. It is also not shifting into 5th so its staying in 4th and using a lot of gas. I tried manually shifting but it still goes to 3rd and will not go to 5th. I have been told this knock sensor could be causing it all. Cant clear code, I hit clear but nothing happens. We don't have a lot of money to pay the Toyota dealer to fix it and I can do all the work but they wont even show me where the knock sensor is.
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Missing the point about why to turn off the AC before engine....it is to evaporate the condensate in the interior air handling system so as to dry it out and prevent mold and mildew in the evaporator and duct work area!!!My wife does not like this either, but, it would be very difficult to clean out and kill a moldy mess in the evaporator and duct work. Part of this is also running the fan on a high setting for several minutes or more after killing the A/C compressor to blow things dry!
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Car is chugging when stopped. Changed the spark plugs and fuel filter. Still does it. Now checking the distributor. I've attached a couple pictures. You can see the brown marks. Is this a problem?
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I bought 04 Lariat (5.4 3v around 100k miles, Roush Off Road side exit exhaust, DWV intake mod, SCT 3015 tuner).
The truck has had a miss on and off for around a month I've changed plugs and tested all the coils. Which cured the problem for around a week, the FPDM had some white stuff on back and soft spot but not ate through. The only Check Engine Lights have been bank 1 to lean (which went away as soon as it came. But yesterday and today I've got bank 2 to lean.
Below is a quick data log pull... The misses is about ready to ship her out if she don't straighten up..
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My son's car wouldn't start after parking at burger king. In off, the car has clicks just behind the floor shifter in a black module and under and foward of engine compartment fuse block. Only way to stop clicking is to move ignition switch to another position or pull IB Battery MaxiFuse in engine compartment fuse block. No activity from car in any other ignition position. no instrument panel lights, radio.
Thought ignition switch changed it, same condition. Battery checks out good. jumpstarting even using a second ground on engine doesn't change symptom. I can't find the modules that are clicking in my Chilton manual. What are the clicking modules and how can I move forward to get the car out of the burger king parking lot?
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I accidentally left my car on overnight and my battery was dead in the morning, of course. I got it jumped and I drove all the way to work, but every time I slowed down at a light or for traffic the car started shaking. It has to be fairly slow before it starts happening, say 15-10 mph or lower. It never did this before the battery went dead, and it stops as soon as I gave the car any amount of gas at all. I'm hoping this is just a temporary side-effect of having to jump the battery. What the problem might be?
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I've got broken wires in the driver door. Do I have to solder them?
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2000... I have a code P0171 bank 1 too lean. My question is does this exclude anything that will effect both banks? If it was MAF sensor or fuel filter would it set code and say banks 1 and 2 running too lean? In which MAF sensor ohms out correctly. I cannot view fuel trim files. I have looked for a vacuum leak with no luck. I got some cigars to try to smoke it to see if there is any vacuum leaks. Trying to narrowing what i need to checks.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
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My vehicle is a 98 F150 5.4 ltr Triton. I got a check engine light on and the error is "bank 2, system too lean." I read that this can be caused by a few different things like vacuum leaks or fuel filter and so far I haven't been able to narrow down. It started with occasional shaking at idle and its happening more as time goes. When at idle it often makes a sound like slurping the bottom of a drink with a straw and shakes intermittently. The fuel economy seems to have gone down. Sometimes it seems like it almost dies in idle, but always keeps running. It runs great when I push on the gas.
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We have a 2003 Passat 1.8t. Had the Check engine Light come on. Went down to AutoZone and hookeded up the OBDII reader. Came up with P0171, Fuel System for Bank 1 was too lean. Probable causes:
1. Fuel Pressure of MAF (If Bank 1 & Bank 2 set codes together)
2. O2 Sensor
3. Ignition Misfire
4. Fuel Injector Problem
Car has 60K - has always run well. Wife says she thinks it's running a bit sluggish. I rarely drive the car, but I think she's right. Car is not missing or running rough.
I cleared the code & started the engine; Check Engine Light is off; then looked at the codes and I find a P0171 (Pending). She tells me that the light has been on before & then gone away. So I guess it clears itself, but eventually comes back.
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I have a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L. I got the check engine light and the computer says catalyst deficiency bank 2. So I assume the passenger side converter is blocked. Is there anyway to either take out the cat and replace with a piece of straight pipe and bypass the o2 sensors or take the cat out of the housing and put the housing in and then bypass the o2 sensors.
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My car won't start! When I turn the key, the car doesn't make any sounds aside from the fan turning every few seconds. The car seems to think the engine is going. All the lights and everything turn on (they're hardly turning on now after trying to get the car running for a couple of days). All the wires on the battery and to the starter are in really good shape, no corrosion or damage or anything.
I've tried starting the car while in neutral as well, still nothing. Does this sound more indicative of an issue with the starter or with the battery? My friend and I were trying to get the starter out so I could have it tested but the bolt is on very very tight (broke a wrench trying to undo it). I want to figure out what the most likely culprit is before I go too much further. Unfortunately I'm out of work right now so taking it to a mechanic isn't really an option, but I really really need to get my car fixed.
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Just how common is this? How much can be done about it? Is it sometimes hopeless? Surely no one ever actually welds them up and then machines them back off?
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Transmission problem, will not shift lever. If car moves while on P, then the interlock will not disengage. I car doesnt roll at all it will allow me to shift gears but if the cars rolls just one inch then i cant shift gears. Already replace brake sensor.
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So a co-worker needed a jump after leaving her lights on. Her car was parked on a busy road and I had to pull up next to her in the opposing traffic lane to be able to reach her battery. In my haste I put the clamps on the wrong battery terminals on MY car (hers were correctly attached). When I got in my car to start it I could see the wires were smoking and immediately got out and disconnected the cables. We ultimately needed to purchase new cables and were able to start the car. The problem is now her radio doesn't work and when she brought it to the dealer they said there is some kind of electrical system failure?!?! Is that possible? Her car works perfectly fine, except for the radio now so not sure what happened.
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I just drove a car I'm looking to buy and the steering wheel was pretty loose. Not jerky, just sloppy.
I can tell it needs an alignment, but what could I be looking at in order to tighten it up?
I've learned that front ends can get pricey pretty quick.
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