MG Midget :: 1977 - Bright / Dim Headlamps And Dashboard Lights
Jul 2, 2011
When I drive my 1977 MG Midget, the headlamps dim, then brighten, then dim, then brighten...constantly. Dashboard lights appear to do the same. I have had no troubles starting the car since it was retrieved from storage in April. What might be causing this?
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I have a Canadian imported vehicle that had the Driving lights on all the time. I turned off the DRL with the VAG with no issues. The last few months tho, the daylight sensor (which I believe is at the base of the windshield) has been very sensitive to street lamps and turns my headlamps off briefly. I'm curious if I can VAG this out as well?
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My lights, headlamps and interior lights, are going from normal to slightly dim in a rapid sequence. They pulse from normal to slightly dim. What could be causing this?
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Past couple of days I've had a warning pop up for "Check lights" sometimes even before i have turned them on although I do have arrive depart set to activate. On looking around all seem to be OK apart from maybe 2 leds within the tail lights. It does seem to go out within a couple of mins of actually setting off as well so clearly somethings sorting itself out.... What to check next? they seem to be working fine, I can see them autolevel when I pull up behind a car and the car settles on its suspension etc.
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Ever since I bought this vehicle, the dashboard lights won't light up unless it is totally dark out. For example, yesterday I am driving in heavy rain during daytime (but pretty dark out!) and Autolamp turns on the headlights...but none of the dash lights! I always thought the dash lights should be on if the headlamps are on. Sometimes just the needles light up. How do I know if my lights are actually on if no dash lights are on?
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I've replaced the relay and bulbs for my '92 Rodeo but only the brights work when I pull my dimmer switch. How do I fix this and what is the cause of this??
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I know I'm not the only one that think the dash illumination lights are too bright! Even when turn turn them all the way down, yes they go down but still too bright. Any mod to make the inside lights dark? I have thought about buying tint and tint the over the speedometer and the clock and radio... Not sure how it would hold since its plastic......
I use my personal car for side work (at night) and need sit in my car and if the car is running and I cut all the lights off, and use the emergency brake to cut the day time running lights off, the dash lights go bright...wtf. I've also thought about removing the fuse for the lights, but I read the same fuse is used for the airbags as well.....
2011 Sonata GLS
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I have a 1972 MG midget and recently rebuilt the carbs, (needles&seats, floats, needles&jets, new fuel pump&filter) along with ignition,(points, condenser, rotor and plugs), checked timing and adjusted the valves. After tuning and balancing the carbs I take it for a test drive, it runs perfectly for about 5 - 7 miles then starts missing and running rough. I thought this might be heat related so I ran on a cold day with no change. I also put in my old coil with no change. After 25 years this is the first time I have been stumped.
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I have a customer that brought this in when he was pulled over by the police. The brake lights burn bright when turning on the headlights. When I unplug the the wiring harness at the left rear the right tail lamp lights up as regular tail lights the left turns off. The voltage at harness when tail light on is 10 wher as the voltage when the brake lights are on is 8.65.
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I noticed the dash lights go from bright to dim depending on the brightness outside. If i go under an overpass even at freeway speeds it will dim down and then come back up during the day. Even if I have my head lights on during the day it does that. Is there anyway to stop this?
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Last night I turned a corner and the footwell lights went on full bright all by themselves for like 3 seconds, then they blinked off, then came back on at the normal dim setting I keep it at. That was weird.
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Today I noticed when I was parking at work that my back tail lights don't seem that bright. When I apply the brakes and such or the backup lights are very bright, but just the normal tail lights didn't seem to come off as that bright. At night they may appear brighter but this morning in cloudy overcast sky's with some light snow falling I am not sure if the person behind could have seen my taillights at all. I have a 2003 Impala LS, it's just over 102,000 miles. Is there a way to test to see if your back taillights are bright enough or is there a way to increase how bright they are when on?
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I was driving home last night and within the 30 min trip, my footwell lights got extremely bright for a split second on two occasions? Not sure whats going on here.......
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Have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter. Headlights not working unless turning on the bright lights and also left blinkers are on. At this point if bright lights are turned off then the headlights working.
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I have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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April 2009, I bought a 2009 Toyota Venza which I totally love. About 2 weeks into ownership the battery went dead. I had it jump startd and all was well. In the time since I bought it, the battery has gone dead 5 times. Numerous trips to dealer and can't find anything. The final straw was when I was having car washed and the battery went dead. I had to call tow truck to drag me out of car wash an take car to dealer. This time they saidit was a bad battery. Now my dashlights are flashing dim to real bright and my TRAC light comes on so I can't put car into gear.
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I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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Recently a couple issues have started with my car, and I'm wondering if they are known.
1) The footwell lights will sporadically switch to full bright for a few seconds. This is really annoying, especially when driving at night.
2) The wiper speed will occasionally slow down, and I'll have to turn them off and on again to fix them. (note, I mean the actually speed of the swipe, not the delay. on the normal speed, not fast, not intermittent, the wipers will physically slow down).
Both are annoying, and I'm hoping they aren't indicative of a larger problem.
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I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with about 152,000 miles on it. Recently while driving if i have the radio on or have my ipod hooked up, the volume will turn all the way down and the dashboard warning lights will turn on. It only lasts for a few seconds at a time but it happens very randomly. Sometimes it won't happen at all and other times it will occur every few minutes or so.After the few seconds the volume turns back up to its previous set level and the dashboard lights go back to normal. The way the lights come on seems pretty random as well. Sometimes it will just be the "parking break" light and other times it will be all of the warning lights. I'm not sure what the problem is. Maybe a fuse is shorting out?
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