Lumina :: Hard Start / Engine Cuts Off At Stop Lights
Oct 5, 2013
I was having real ruff idling problems for about 4 days, especially at stop lights. When I drive on the highway no problems. Starting the car was no problem.
I could hear whistling sounds while I idled it on my driveway, figured vacuum leak or pcv valve. I replaced the valve and the boot, but still had the problem.
I could still hear whistling sound then I noticed my pcv assembly hose was broken where it branches off to the intake. (See pic)
So I went to dealer and got the tubing. I installed it today. Now I try to start it and it sounds like it's not getting enough gas and it even turned off on me at the store. Once the car is on however, when I'm at a stop light the problem idling is gone.
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My engine light came on a few days ago and with no signs of problems I decided to wait until next week to take it in. At the end of a 70 mile highway trip today when I exited the highway and coasted to a stop the engine cut out. I managed to coax the car home but the idle was very rough and it would cut out when I came to a stop. At times I noticed the engine light flashing. What this could be - I may try to coax it to my garage which is about 15 miles away tomorrow if possible.
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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This afternoon my 2007 made a long beep, popped up the red brake, traction control, ! triangle, ABS, VSC and check engine lights. It followed up by the gas engine cutting out and we had to coast to a shady spot (over 112 degrees at the time). After we pushed it into a parking spot we tried to turn the car on and off and it wouldn't allow us to change it to drive or reverse.
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I have a 1989 Buick LaSabre that is having some problems and no mechanic seems to be able to figure it out. After 4 computer items totally $1,800.00 since March, the same problem started again yesterday. I am driving through the hills to town and the dashboard lights all come on and my engine cuts out. I stop, put in park and restart and take off again. As soon as I am on the highway, car runs fine. It has something to do with the fuel system I believe because once it cuts out the car smells like lots of gas but after it starts back up (and it does every time) the smell goes away.
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After 90K miles of using Castrol 5W30 dyno and changing it every 3-3.5K miles , I have just changed to 0W40 Mobil Synthetic. I have a 2002 Passat V6 automatic tip . I am hoping to have a smoother idle at stop lights .
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I'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
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Our 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
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About a month ago my Lumina (1999 LTZ 3.8L 85,000 miles) started jerking a little bit while slowing down almost like I was hitting the brake too hard and after 2 days of it the car would shut off while braking toward a stop sign or while idling and would to this without the jerk, no warning. I replaced the throttle position sensor hoping this would fix the problem, it did nothing. Soon after this the engine would jerk really bad while driving and shut off even during acceleration, the service engine soon light came on during this time. I took it to a local mechanic who said the error code was for a faulty mass air flow sensor, so that was replaced. This made things a lot better, no more dying or jerking while driving but there was a new problem.
When starting the engine cold no issues, when starting the engine warm after sitting 20-30 minutes it would shake and the RPMs would fluctuate by 300-400, but once I put it in drive and started going it would drive smooth. The service engine light came back on so I brought it back to the mechanic. This time they said the fuel pump wasn't pumping enough fuel (low pressure?) and it needed to be replaced so I did that but it created a new problem. When I would start the car cold the RPMs would jump way up to 2000 then down to 0 or it would jump to 2000 then down to 500 then up to 1500 then down and so on until I put it in drive.
So I brought it back again and they replaced a gasket around the fuel pump, put a new idle control sensor (i think?) and told me to turn the key to on, listen for the pump to stop pumping fuel and then start the car, I have never had to do that before all these problems. This worked fine for about 2 weeks and now I am back to the car shaking while starting it warm like it did before the new fuel pump and the service engine light just came back on. But again, once I start driving it runs nice and smooth like there are no problems.
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My brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
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It seems to have difficulty starting during stop and go like on deliveries. Also has problems after refueling. Is this caused by a faulty purge valve? If so where is it located?
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I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
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I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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Lately I've been having trouble with my car in third gear under hard acceleration while in tip mode with DSG. I have been Stage 2 since April and it hasn't really been an issue until recently.
The best way I can describe it is when you get into 3rd with your foot on the gas the car stops accelerating and kind of gets stuck. I have to completely let off the gas and before it "wakes up" again. I feel like it's been getting worse in worse, but it only ever happens when I try to push it hard.
No problems in auto mode or sport, it's just a major let down. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? It just feels like the car doesn't want to move for a second or 2, like no response from the gas pedal.
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I have a 98 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission. When I come to a hard stop, or make a hard turn, the engine either stalls or almost stalls. I've had it serviced lately with new plugs and wires, oil change and fuel system cleaning. The engine idles fine when you start it and are just sitting there. The problem seems to come with stopping hard or turning while quickly slowing, when the clutch is engaged. If I am able to hit the gas I can keep it running and then it runs fine.
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Have a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
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I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
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I have a used 2007 Prius (my dad owns it) that I've been driving for a little over two and a half years. I can't remember exactly when it started, but my car has this issue where, if I make a turn from a stop, it cuts out a few times. Like, if I'm sitting at an intersection waiting for the light or traffic to clear and step on the gas to turn, it'll go but lurch about 3 or 4 times in the process. It scares the heck outta me because I never know if I'm going have enough speed to make the turn without causing an accident, so I wind up waiting for completely clear lanes, which annoys the drivers behind me.
It happens randomly, there's no guarantee it'll happen every time. It's more frequent when turning right. I've told my dad about all this, but when he took it for service months ago, he said they said that it was normal (sounds fishy to me). So here I am now, the problem's still there, so I tell him and he decides to get new tires for the car. Those came, but they didn't fix it.
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so, I'm driving home the other day in stop and go 102 degree traffic, and my A/C cuts out. I thought maybe my compressor took a dump, because I've noticed a little noise from that side of the engine. Then I look down, and notice my water temp is like 240-250ish. As soon as traffic starts up again, temp goes down to normal, and A/C comes back.
I have a 2 mile commute to work, so it hasn't happened since then.
no DTC's, no rad fan. A/C fan works. Put 12V to fan - no worky. fuse block on top of battery not melted.
Obviously I need a fan, but I was wondering about something else. since this started, my car gets to normal operating temp (NOT), in literally under 2-3 minutes. I know its Texas and a billion million degrees, but I think that's too fast.
Green top coolant temp sensor, and metal impeller water pump already installed.
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