Lumina :: Brake Light Will Not Go Off In Dash
Oct 10, 2014
I recently replaced a broken brake line on a 99 lumina .I have good brakes and pedal, the fluid level is good, But the BRAKE light (Not abs light) will not go off in the dash.I bled the brakes using the pedal,I dont have any other method.The master cylinder was empty for 8-10 hrs.I'd hate to have to replace the master cylinder instead of something simple and cheaper to get the light to go off.I made sure the parking brake was released also. Not sure if ABS has something to do with it.
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1995 Lumina LS 3.1L w/ ~185K mi
A few weeks back, the amber ABS light would periodically illuminate and then became more frequent until it was On every time I used the car. The light only comes on after driving the car forward ~10-20ft. Recently in the past few days, the red brake light also started coming on at the exact same time as the amber ABS light. I can start up the car and idle, backup, and then as soon as I drive forward 10-20ft., both lights simultaneously illuminate, along with the sound of something that is engaging/closing/switching etc. coming from the front driver's side, maybe where the brake module is located. The sound coincides with the illumination of the lights. There is also absolutely no noticeable difference in braking.
I just changed the oil a couple days ago and the fluid level was good and appears to have not moved at all since I flushed the lines ~2.5yrs. ago. I cannot recall if I returned the pistons to the home position back then, but either way I was able to bleed all 4 lines.
What may be causing both lights to illuminate together when the car moves forward in addition to coinciding with a sort of clunking/engaging noise coming from the front driver's side?
If I have to replace the EBCM, then do I need a scan tool?
I already called Module Master and they do not rebuild any GM EBCMs built before 1999. Looks like Rock Auto has some though.
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I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
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Lately my wagon has been popping these warning lights on the dash randomly. I was wondering if this is a sign that my ECU is failing or my braking system? Besides the lights on the dash everything seems to be working just fine.
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Have a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
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1994 Camry XLE V-6 239,000 miles and just broke in. Dash brake light on??
I have checked brake fluid taking lid off the canister and level is spot on. Do not see any obvious leaks looking under the car at each wheel. Whatever is the cause it is no longer letting my cruise control to work. The cruise control system must be getting a constant signal telling it the brakes are being applied. Car brakes seem to work ok and I continue to drive car daily. Problem with dash brake light cropped up about 5 days ago after I cleaned the EGR valve.
I previously had a check engine light and code was for the EGR. Don't believe the problems are related but thought I would add this info anyway. BTW the check engine light came on again so cleaning the EGR didn't solve the problem. Will have to have the code read again to see if its the EGR or something else now. Dash is starting to look like a christmas tree with all the pretty colored lights on. What should I check to solve the dash brake light/cruise control issue.
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I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
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About a month ago my Lumina (1999 LTZ 3.8L 85,000 miles) started jerking a little bit while slowing down almost like I was hitting the brake too hard and after 2 days of it the car would shut off while braking toward a stop sign or while idling and would to this without the jerk, no warning. I replaced the throttle position sensor hoping this would fix the problem, it did nothing. Soon after this the engine would jerk really bad while driving and shut off even during acceleration, the service engine soon light came on during this time. I took it to a local mechanic who said the error code was for a faulty mass air flow sensor, so that was replaced. This made things a lot better, no more dying or jerking while driving but there was a new problem.
When starting the engine cold no issues, when starting the engine warm after sitting 20-30 minutes it would shake and the RPMs would fluctuate by 300-400, but once I put it in drive and started going it would drive smooth. The service engine light came back on so I brought it back to the mechanic. This time they said the fuel pump wasn't pumping enough fuel (low pressure?) and it needed to be replaced so I did that but it created a new problem. When I would start the car cold the RPMs would jump way up to 2000 then down to 0 or it would jump to 2000 then down to 500 then up to 1500 then down and so on until I put it in drive.
So I brought it back again and they replaced a gasket around the fuel pump, put a new idle control sensor (i think?) and told me to turn the key to on, listen for the pump to stop pumping fuel and then start the car, I have never had to do that before all these problems. This worked fine for about 2 weeks and now I am back to the car shaking while starting it warm like it did before the new fuel pump and the service engine light just came back on. But again, once I start driving it runs nice and smooth like there are no problems.
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My brake light and battery dash lights came on when I got home. The next day drove 3 miles parked no lights on . But on my way back. about 1/12 miles they came back on. Next trip they came on when first started the car stayed on for about 9 miles once I got on the.Why they went off stayed off till I hit town about 30 miles. Stayed on till I parked the car. When I left to return home lights still on. While driving. n all dash lights came on then went real dim to no lights transmission and brakes felt like they were losing power .parked the car the next morning it started right up but break and battery light still on moved it a couple blocks to my sons house . When the lights went off on the hey. Then heater fan would kick up when lights are on heater fan runs slower.
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I have a 2000 Passat w V6 thats in the shop at the dealers. The ABS/Brake light in the dash is coming on. The dealer says I need a new sensor in the ABS module. This sensor cost $700 plus about $400 in labor. Seems very pricey to me. My question is, could I buy a used ABS module and replace the bad one with the bad sensor myself? Where could I get a used or new ABS module at a good price? Is it hard to change out?
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I've replaced rusted out brake lines on my 1998 GMC Sierra 1500. I bled the system properly and every thing seems to run fine and brakes good. But the brake warning light stays on in the dash and buzzer is on. What to do to turn these off...
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When I release it then start in reverse often the car doesn't move then there is a loud sound from the right rear tire. If I don't engage the brake it reverse fine.I don't know where to start with this. I assume there is a cable going back to the wheel cylinders. Perhaps binding up somehow.
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I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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My dad said his 2009 RX350, he noticed that the brake light on the dash randomly comes on and off sometimes now.
I've read that a lot of the earlier models had an issue with the brake light switch that was causing the VSC, brake, and ABS lights to come on, but in his case it is only the brake light alone that is lighting up.
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I have a major problem with my 04 V8 Touareg! I can't shift out of park. I spoke to the dealer and they told me that the battery could be the problem since I had to get it jumped. I changed the battery, and I still can't get it out of park. The brake light on the dash is flashing and the ABS light is on. The vehicle is parked in garage and the only way to get it out and on to a tow truck is to drag it.
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So I got my 92 Celica GT 2.2 Motor Auto (unfortunately for now). Back off my wife's uncle and it wont crank or anything. I also noticed that now when you push the brake, it still wont let u shift it out of park. If you try to start the car it does nothing, however the brake light on the dash shows up. I am thinking it may be the starter as all the relays and fuses look ok. I am thinking it could be the ignition switch as it wont let me shift out of park without using the release button, but am not sure where I should start.
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I recently purchased an 07 f150 lariat leveled 4x4. I noticed the other day that all at once, the abs light and parking brake light came onto the dash, 4x4 low doesn't work and just stays in high and the ac doesn't blow cold. I'm assuming this is somewhat connected considering this all happened at once but really just not sure.
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The e brake is not engaged but the light is on. how can i kill the light?
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My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
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The ABS Module going bad resulting in the Brake Light and ABS Light remaining lit on the dash. Couple of questions:
1. Any preferences between using Module Master vs. ABS Fixer to get my module re-built?
2. MM told me to get the OEM from GM for confirmation. ABS Fixer told me to take it to a mechanic to see codes (1. Pump Running Failure or 2. CO265). I'm little leary that MM didn't tell me to do that and just assumed that the ABS was broken and I should just remove it and send it in. Who's right?
3. Also a little leary on trying to remove this myself. My unit is under driver door on top of the brake lines. Is it a difficult job (I can handle most things with good pictures and instructions) or should I take it in to local mechanic and have him remove it to send in?
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In a recent show a listener described the exact problem I just started to have - the dash hand brake light pops on when i go over bumps or up my driveway . It was a fluid level problem but I don't remember which it was. Was it brake fluid or power steering fluid or something else?
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