Lumina :: 94 - Reservoir Tank Leaks While The Car Runs
Oct 6, 2014
Ok, so my 1994 chevy lumina euro coupe 3.1L has started stalling now that it is getting colder outside. This morning on my way to school. I started my car and put it in reverse and backed out a little bit and it stalled out. So I started it back up and it was ok. It acted like it was going to stall out again but it didn't. This has happened a total of 3 times now in the past week.
Also I do have a fuel problem as well. My car smells of VERY STRONG gas when sitting. And I am getting 11.9 mpg in the city and 14.7 mpg on the highway. Oh, and one more thing. I slowly lose coolant in my reservoir tank. It is a very slow leak and only leaks while the car runs.
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2000 Chrysler 300M with 142K miles. Was a very reliable car until recently.
Problem began with boiling coolant in the reservoir tank. Then began to lose coolant at a high rate. I tried stop leak products and replaced the coolant frequently for a couple months. Some of it kind of worked, but the problem always returned. The car drives fine for about 10 highway miles then begins to steam out from under the hood on the passenger side. It gets about half way up the temp gauge, but does not really overheat. I usually stop when it steams out, let it cool, replace the antifreeze, then do it all over again. I've also tried a bunch of other things too, e.g., radiator flush. None of it worked.
The mechanic wants to replace the radiator. Says the system does not have pressure so there's no real way to determine if there are leaks in the engine. But he does know that the radiator is no good. I'm okay to replace radiator, but don't want to do it just to find out ten minutes later that I have a blown head gasket, which I would opt not to fix. I have read the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket, such as coolant in the oil, but there is none. My exhaust is white, but it's 5 degrees outside and it doesn't look whiter. I have seen some coolant on the ground at times.
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Early 70's Ford truck. The brake MC fluid is filled but not overfilled, and doesn't leak at all when the truck is parked. It can sit there for a month and never leak a drop, parked. But when I drive the truck, even just around the block, then park, and look inside the engine compartment immediately the brake MC is dripping brake fluid. It appears the leaking mode is by the fluid somehow jumping up and coming over the top edge of the MC when the truck is in motion or when the brakes are applied. All my diy'er years of replacing brake master cylinders on Ford Galaxies, VW Rabbits, Corollas, and this truck, I've never seen this kind of weird brake problem before. On this MC design it seems there's sort of a rubber baffle inside the lid of the MC, and that's present and accounted for.
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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I've got an '08 Cobalt. There is a large leak in my coolant system. The plastic reservoir is empty and if I add coolant and start the engine it all gushes out of a hole in a piece of plastic on the side of the radiator. Can I drive it to the shop if I watch the engine temperature or should I have it towed? Is the engine temperature measurement affected by the lack of coolant?
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I have 30k on my 97 Chevy Lumina. there is so much vacuum in the gas tank that it crushed the tank. I have replaced the tank but don't know what the problem is. Have taken it to three different shops and got three different opinions. One shop replaced the purge solenoid, no luck. Another said there is no fuel tank pressure data and want to drop the tank and check the sensor. the error code they read is p0440. The other replaced the evap canister. Am driving without the gas cap to protect new tank.I don't want to pay for another unnecessary repair and am sure I can repair it myself but want to be cartain I have it right. Also I didn't realize there was a pressure sensor in the tank. They also said I could have a restricted vent valve or canister.
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My 99 Lumina's battery would drain after 36-48 of just sitting (12-24 before replacing the battery.) I had tried somethings did research and had no luck. In January this year I got an oil change at a jiffy lube type place. They removed something by the spark-plug wires right at the bottom edge of the windshield. When I tried to start it the car engine it jerked, shook, and didn't start. They did something in that same spot then it started right up.To my surprise the battery didn't drain any more!! Then 2 weeks later it started running rough when I slowed down, started to die, was very hard to start, then ran very rough, next I had to step on the gas and ride the brake for 4 blocks then it died in my driveway. That all happened over 15 miles wile in traffic. I tried to start it many times with no luck. The battery was fine after 4+ months of sitting.
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I'm getting ready to work on a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire for a co-worker. They told me that brake fluid leaks out where the fluid reservoir attaches to the master cylinder. Could that be a bad master cylinder or something with the brake booster? It looks like there is a lot of sludge in the reservoir.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L with 85K miles. TB, WP and all belts changed at 75K. Have had this whine noise when I turn right, very high pitch noise. On top of this there is now Power Steering fluid leaking from the reservoir and base and brackets are full of fluid... Needless to say I assume it is the reservoir seals giving up but why the noise only when I turn right? No noise when I turn left.
What could it be? Also where can I find parts online that are cheaper than the stealership? I called them and they quoted me $72.00 for this piece of plastic!!
What else should I change? There is also some "oil/fluid" coming down a pressure hose but I believe this is due to the oil dripping from the reservoir...
Any manuals I could use to view this? I bought the Haynes manual and it's worthless!
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have a f550 with a hpop res leak on the backside and wonder if this is in fact under any pressure when functioning since it has o rings on it as well.
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My parents have dumped a Ford F150 Explorer van on me to fix for them. Whenever they put gas in it too fast or fill it up more than about 2/3rds of the way full, it leaks near the back of the tank. I believed that it may have been the Charcoal Cylinder, but that theory was not correct. I really don't want to drop the tank, but that is my next step. I don't think that it is a hole, because it only leaks under certain conditions.
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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Aside from other issues I am having with my prius, this was one lurking. I originally thought the prius was "using" the coolant insufficiently. Anyhow, I bought this prius from a private dealer....(know how that goes)......
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I just purchased a 2015 sonata last Friday from a large non Hyundai dealer. An hour ago while upgrading my headlights i noticed the coolant reserve tank was completely empty. I am going to check the main radiator level tomorrow because the engine was still hot at the time. I am hoping it is not a blown head gasket, i did remove the oil cap and noticed a very small amount of greyish oil in the cap threads other than that it looked good directly under the cap and inside the hole. Should i call my local Hyundai dealer or just fill the tank back up? I am wondering if it just burned off over time and the original owner never filled it back up. Also what type of coolant is compatible?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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I just got a 1994 F150 with the 5.8L motor its a 4X4 with Auto trans. I have the dual tanks set up, midship and aft-axle and both tanks leak, more aft-axle then front. I was wondering how difficult is it to remove and install these tanks and what are some tricks to solve the problems I'll run into?
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My 1999 VW Passat has a check engine P0411, P0422, so I looked for any damaged vacuum lines and found one that was all melted coming out of the blue vacuum reservoir tank in the front left lower bumper area. The line was broken off and I cannot figure out where this line is supposed to go.
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I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
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A few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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So I just got new wiper blades for 2001 Toyota Echo, and started to fill the washer reservoir tank when I immediately heard it drip down underneath. I accidentally filled it past the line, and after a few minutes, the bottom portion of the reservoir was still blue, so I think the leak/crack is located towards the top/neck.
But, the issue that has me a little concerned is that I also noticed that when I activate the windshield washer switch, I immediately hear fluid spraying and gushing. No fluid comes out the nozzles. I hear the pump.I don't think it happens at the pump/tank/hose area at the bottom of the tank. I think its occurring inside the fender. I see water drip down the fenderwall onto the tire and ground.
That hose seems to go from the washer fluid tank to the passenger fender and through it and alongside it and comes out near where the hood bolts to the hinge. If the hose is leaking there behind the fender, how I am supposed to access the area in question.
I understand removing the bottom splash cover will give me access to under the fluid tank. Removing the bumper would probably give me access to the tank itself? But that washer tube just rides up along the fender out of sight before it emerges out the back..so what is the proper/easy way of being able to access/route that tube..couldn't really find it in the factory manual. Would removing the fender give me access to the tube?
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