Lumina :: 92 Chevy 3.1 Crank But No Start - Car Started To Stall Sputter
Jul 27, 2015
This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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Last week my truck started to stall a little bit. As I drove it a little longer, it stalled all the way out. It started back up fine but when I gave it some gas, it cut off. This happened several times. I popped the hood and noticed the throttle body was a little loose. Thinking air may have gotten into the system,I tightened it back up. I started it up,put it in gear and it seemed to drive fine and it started stalling again.
While I was on the interstate, it would cut off, cut back on,cut off and then cut back on. Finally it completely stalled out. I had to have it towed to my house. I hooked my code scanner up to it and it through code 44 (O2 sensor) and code 54 (Fuel pump relay or something like that). What could be causing my truck to run this way.
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when the temperature is above roughly 60 degrees, I can drive the car for a short while, even a few miles, and it will start to sputter and eventually stall. At that point the car won't start, it turns over fine, but sounds like it's not getting any gas. If I wait 15-20 minutes it starts fine and will repeat the same process. Is there some temperature sensor or something that prevents the engine from starting after it gets hot, or is it something else. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate the engine is hotter than normal. I've taken it to my car shop twice and they haven't found anything. 1991 mercedes e300...
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Its a 2003 f-350 6.0 started out just stalling out throw it in N it would fire right back up then started to sputter now I have a no start doesn't even try to start no smoke on crank. all of this between -3 and 5 degrees outside. According to my scan gauge ipr is 14.8, have ficm sync, ficm main is between 47 and 48 cranking, builds 0 icp irp duty cycle doesn't go up either. Pretty sure my icp is bad leaks oil though the sensor and pig tail is covered in oil. Truck has 197000 miles hpop, injectors, and ficm changed around 165000 oil cooler and blue spring at 1800000...
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I'm working on a 03 Toyota matrix base 1.8. it died on the road and now will crank and sputter a little but that's all. its getting good spark, not sure about injector pulse but I do smell fuel after cranking. I have also checked the timing chain it is tight but didn't try lining things up to check if it skipped. Seems to have good compression but didn't have a gauge on me. Also tried adding fuel and it wouldn't kick off of that. I'm thinking crank or cam sensor but don't have a scope to test and don't know how else to check them.
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I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.
So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?
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I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
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I have a 1987 Chevy Celebrity w/a 2.5l automatic engine. Physically its in really good shape and only has 64k original miles. Consistent issue is it will crank (sometimes very hard to get it to do so, then run smooth, sometimes for days, sometimes for only minutes, then stall out. It usually stalls after the engine is good and warm. If you let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, it will restart and idle smooth and then go into stalling out again, sometimes within minutes, sometimes days. I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel filter, sending unit/fuel pump, fuel injector, throttle body, the computer, exhaust/muffler, mass air flow sensor, several other sensors and it has not improved or worsened the problem. I have sunk $1700.00 into this car in replacement parts. I can't believe that there's much else left that could be the cause, and I suspect its bound to be something simple, like a sensor or something, because pretty much all of the expensive stuff's been replaced.
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I have a 1999 chevy lumina 3.1 with only 317,000 mi. and running strong. I had put new plugs,and wires about 6 weeks ago. The other day it started misfiring and I could smell the gasoline. I checked the tail pipe and it showed black smoke. In addition I put a piece of paper on the tail pipe and I could feel the misfiring with a consistent rhythm. I notice that it is running flooded(like if a fuel injector is not working correctly.) I cleaned the throttle body, checked all the coils and the spark plugs and they are good. It does not show any check engine light on. What could it be?
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Was called today to look at a car that wont start its a 92 Chevy lumina euro with the 3.1 v6 automatic 4 door. The car has a new crank sensor recently installed ran well for a while and now has no injector pulse. Checked for spark its good. sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it fired for a second acted like it wanted to run and then died. Checked for fuel at Schroeder valve it has fuel there I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but it sprayed pretty good. I'm not real good with electrical but thought maybe the ICM under the coil packs could be bad I have one off a running engine on my shelf but wanted to see what other people had to say first.
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So about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
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A week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
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My brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
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I have a 99 Chevy Lumina. The car periodically flashes the low coolant light. I check it and its fine. I don't know if its related to my recent problem. A couple of days ago, my car wouldn't start. All the lights and stuff come on, but there is no clicking or even trying to start. I kept trying. It wouldn't work. I left it alone to make some phone calls. I messed with it again after a little while and it started. It has been running until today. It started, I got my son to daycare. Then when I tried to start the car to leave, it did the same thing again. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and it started again.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
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Last winter, my car sporadically stopped while I was driving slowly or while I was standing still. I usually turned the engine off and restarted it right away without a problem. It happened a few times and then it stopped. This winter, it began again - frequently. I realize now that it only happens during the cold months.
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I just picked up this 2005 Elantra last month. She runs GREAT - except after filling. Then she will occasionally sputter or sometimes stall during idle. Otherwise, if tank is below 3/4 (approximately), she runs fine.
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1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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I have a motocrap 2bbl on my 73 f-100 all stock 390 when I drop it into gear she wants to sputter and stall without warning at idle runs great but put a load on and forget it what is wrong with this thing?
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So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
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