Lumina :: 1999 - Jerking A Little Bit While Slowing Down Almost Like Hitting The Brake Too Hard
Nov 17, 2013
About a month ago my Lumina (1999 LTZ 3.8L 85,000 miles) started jerking a little bit while slowing down almost like I was hitting the brake too hard and after 2 days of it the car would shut off while braking toward a stop sign or while idling and would to this without the jerk, no warning. I replaced the throttle position sensor hoping this would fix the problem, it did nothing. Soon after this the engine would jerk really bad while driving and shut off even during acceleration, the service engine soon light came on during this time. I took it to a local mechanic who said the error code was for a faulty mass air flow sensor, so that was replaced. This made things a lot better, no more dying or jerking while driving but there was a new problem.
When starting the engine cold no issues, when starting the engine warm after sitting 20-30 minutes it would shake and the RPMs would fluctuate by 300-400, but once I put it in drive and started going it would drive smooth. The service engine light came back on so I brought it back to the mechanic. This time they said the fuel pump wasn't pumping enough fuel (low pressure?) and it needed to be replaced so I did that but it created a new problem. When I would start the car cold the RPMs would jump way up to 2000 then down to 0 or it would jump to 2000 then down to 500 then up to 1500 then down and so on until I put it in drive.
So I brought it back again and they replaced a gasket around the fuel pump, put a new idle control sensor (i think?) and told me to turn the key to on, listen for the pump to stop pumping fuel and then start the car, I have never had to do that before all these problems. This worked fine for about 2 weeks and now I am back to the car shaking while starting it warm like it did before the new fuel pump and the service engine light just came back on. But again, once I start driving it runs nice and smooth like there are no problems.
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2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT v6 4.0 with 89k.
Lately my truck has been acting funny. About 1 out of 3 times I start my truck and put it n reverse it starts doing what I would describe as a hesitation. If I sit for about 10 seconds, it will stop. But if I move while it is happening it will move and jerk as if i was slightly hitting the brake constantly (no the parking break is not on). It will continue when I throw it in drive until I give it some gas. From then on as far as I can tell there are no problems. It doesn't do it every time. I went in for an oil change and they told me I will need to replace the belt soon, so could that be the culprit?
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I was driving the car yesterday and was getting on the highway ramp and stepped on the gas and car went crazy. It started to accelerate and decelerate by itself. I had no control of the car whatsoever. When driving at 0 to 40mph no problem so far, but anything over this car will jerk, like it's changing gears by itself, 'going fast and slow.'What is this? Do I need a fuel filter, or plugs or what? I don't know when the last time I changed anything the car mileage is 135,000
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06 Silverado, service brakes message comes on when hitting the brakes hard. What causes this? Is it possible fluid is low or faulty sensor in master cylinder?
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Have a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
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I have owned a 2007 2nd Gen Prius for about a month in a half. I love my Prius although I purchased it with high miles (just under 200K) I felt a little adventurous and took it on a rather lengthy trip from Ohio to Nebraska and then to South Dakota and back home) a few weeks ago and I've noticed a few things since.
Before this trip I could let my car coast down slight grades or hills with no issue. The car just coasted like normal which save gas of course. Well now on slight hills it feels as if the car is down shifting. It actually slows itself down slightly. On steeper grades it will still coast but up until a few weeks ago I could literally coast on a slight grade. Not so anymore.
Also when I accelerate now sometimes when I lift my foot off the accelerator it bucks or jerks. It's not very violent but noticeable. I didn't experience any of these issues before the trip. I was wondering if the rocky back gravel roads of Nebraska could be a contributing factor in any of this or perhaps the steep hills of Rapid City South Dakota (SD was when I first noticed the reduction in coasting)
I've been in to see the Toyota Service department In my area and of course they told me that, "Those Prii just drive like that". I refuse to accept that since I am very sensitive to changes in drivability in any vehicle that I own and I know that my Prius operates and feels differently than it did before.
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I have noticed a serious bump steer or a violent jerking action when hitting a bump in the road. Just over a year ago I replaced ball joints,tie rods, sway bar links (2nd set since cutting off original). I used MOOG components. I was shocked to see the sway bar links loose once again. Is there a certain way to tighten them or is there a better product available. Mostly stock 1999 'ploder with fire wires and scremin demon coil pack.
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 7.3 power stroke in it. It is factory height on a set of 285/75 16 tires. It already has a reman steering pump and I replaced the steering gearbox today due to the truck having a little slop in the wheel. Since I bought the truck it is dang near impossible to park in a parking lot and almost impossible at a stop sign or being stopped to get it to turn whether I'm on the brakes or not it doesn't seem to make a difference. What else could be affecting the steering on the truck? All the steering components are good. I'm about by to the point of just selling the truck because it's that hard to steer. Especially trying to back a trailer is hard too.
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My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
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I'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
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Our 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
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I was having real ruff idling problems for about 4 days, especially at stop lights. When I drive on the highway no problems. Starting the car was no problem.
I could hear whistling sounds while I idled it on my driveway, figured vacuum leak or pcv valve. I replaced the valve and the boot, but still had the problem.
I could still hear whistling sound then I noticed my pcv assembly hose was broken where it branches off to the intake. (See pic)
So I went to dealer and got the tubing. I installed it today. Now I try to start it and it sounds like it's not getting enough gas and it even turned off on me at the store. Once the car is on however, when I'm at a stop light the problem idling is gone.
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I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
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I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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I recently replaced a broken brake line on a 99 lumina .I have good brakes and pedal, the fluid level is good, But the BRAKE light (Not abs light) will not go off in the dash.I bled the brakes using the pedal,I dont have any other method.The master cylinder was empty for 8-10 hrs.I'd hate to have to replace the master cylinder instead of something simple and cheaper to get the light to go off.I made sure the parking brake was released also. Not sure if ABS has something to do with it.
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I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
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i did have the mech recall done a while back. lately, on several occasions, when i've hit the pedal to the floor "fast", i would get a high rev to 3-4k with the car not moving any faster and then after the revs come back to 1-2k the car would take off like it should. the perfect example of this would be when i wanted to change lanes or pass someone on the freeway.
the car accelerates normally when i am depressing the pedal incrementally and i haven't seen the same type of thing during any other situation. i've had the car for a year and hadn't really noticed this prior to recent driving.
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I have 46k on stock suspension and lately I have been hearing a clunking sound when hitting bumps. It sounds like it is coming from the strut mounts and the ride has been harsh compared to when the car was newer. There isn't any bounciness and I thing the shocks/struts are fine. I push down on the body and no bounciness when I let up. Could my strut mounts be shot already?
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The boss has an 08 Sport Trac, V8, 4x4. It has the hard bump when slowing to a stop. I've read here that there is a TSB to reprogram the transmission. Called a dealer in Ft. Worth to schedule appointment. Service guy say there is no TSB. Looking for a copy or number or anything on the TSB?
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I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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