1998 3.1 ... 206,000 miles on it. Transmission rebulit about 25,000 miles ago, about 1 year ago.
Yesterday and again today from initial takeoff i noticed a whistling sound from about 20 mph up to about 40 mph.and it seemed to increase as i applied throttle. Is there some kind of vacuum to do with the choke maybe causing it?
I didnt notice the whistle after car was operating temp.
I have a 2001 Echo 5-speed that I bought it November. Loving it so far. One thing I've noticed is an electronic-like whistling sound whenever I'm applying light throttle. The sound goes away if I left off the throttle, or if I give it more gas. When I say light throttle, it's when I'm applying enough pressure to maintain maybe 1500 RPM in neutral, so not much. It's only at that specific point that I'll hear the noise, and it's in all gears and not related to vehicle speed. I've searched through the usual channels but didn't find anything related.
In the few months before I bought it the previous owner had the MAF sensor, alternator, and water pump replaced by the dealer so those components are covered under the 1 year/20k parts warranty if they may be a culprit. I'm hoping to narrow down what the problem could be before I take it in for routine service anyways.
My Ranger has 296,000 miles on it. Most everything has been replaced except the u-joints. It's a 2wd 2.5L with an automatic. The motor was replaced at 228,000 with a used motor with 52,000 miles. The transmission has about 60,000 miles on it. All the bearings in the rear end were replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It has the most annoying whistling noise coming from the rear only sometimes. I don't know if it's the brakes being misadjusted or a bearing with a burr in it. It happens at random times but it's such a high pitched whistling you know everyone on the road can hear it too. There is also a driveline vibration, very minor though when over 60. However, I've had the drums checked and even had the wheels balanced many times. My friend said the ujoint grease could be dried up, but the whistling noise only happens at random, the virbation is anytime you're at highway speeds. It's not a violent vibration just enough to tell that it's not a brand new truck anymore. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesMy accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
View 13 RepliesI have an 04, vin 70k+ V8, Nav/Air Susp. with 35k miles. My problem seems pretty specific:
I have a solid whistle in the front right area of the truck above very slow speeds. It really does sound like air moving, so I was thinking mirror/rack, wheelwell, etc. But, when I push the throttle, even a little, it subsides greatly...almost gone. That's what makes me nervous.
Of all the posts I read, the only one that seems like it might be my problem is the driveshaft bearing, maybe because of the torque, etc placed on it during acceleration (I'm no mechanic). I would think that any aerodynamic type problem would have nothing to do with slight throttle changes.
Am I on track? Common occurrence? Anything I should tell the dealer? I'll probably take all this to them when I do the 40k service. I also got a the running gear fault last week, but it hasn't returned. Do you think my Air Susp seals/piston rings are going too?
I just installed the BSH turbo inlet pipe as well as the Neuspeed P-Flo intake.
Install was pretty simple, the only things that gave me trouble were those stupid clamps on the inlet of the turbo and on the maf, just because they are a pain in to get off ..but anyway im very impressed with it so far. It looks great and high quality. It sounds amazing! Not too loud that it gets annoying, but still gives that p hhhhh sssss sound that everyone loves.. The turbo sounds much meaner and there seems to be a significant increase in throttle response. At first i didnt really notice much power gains, but after driving it for about two days, i've noticed that my top end is a lot better and it pulls alot harder on the freeway and in 6th gear.
I also installed the forge diverter valve yesterday and like everyone says, its not much louder than with the stock diverter but it did gave the intake more of a flutter sound.
2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
Need to check a rear brake tomorrow. I looked around the side of the car and there doesn't appear to be a flat spot for a floor jack. There is an area that looks bent like someone used a floor jack there but not sure it is the right place to lift. I have the factory manuals and they don't point to the locations either.
View 1 Replies97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
So I was replacing thermostat in 98 lumina 3.1 and use the wrong bolt for the upper bolt on the housing and it broke where it mounts onto the block. Now the housing won't seal over thermostat and just spread coolant everywhere... Is there an easier and less expensive way of fixing or do I have to get a whole new motor?
View 5 RepliesThe last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
View 13 RepliesMy 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Passat Wagon, V6, with a little over 80,000 miles that has developed a problem that I have not been able to get fixed: after the engine has warmed up, when driving at under 2000 rpm, the car jerks when light throttle is applied. I could also describe it as a thump or shudder. There is a small blip in the tachometer when it jerks. If I give it enough gas to cause the transmission to shift up, it does not jerk, nor does it do it over 2000 rpm. It recently had it's 80,000 mile service and runs very strong and smoothly when given enough gas.
My dealer couldn't figure what was wrong, and after they consulted with VW decided that I must have put in some bad gas. The problem was to have gone away after 5 or 6 tanks of good gas. After that didn't solve the problem, I went to an independent repair shop. They told me that it couldn't be misfire because there were no codes registered. Their theory is that it is problem with the transmission, whereby with light throttle the transmission is told to shift but then slips right back down, thus the jerkiness. They couldn't offer a solution, however. What to do about it?
Truck had been running with a bit of a skip and shuddered after throttle was applied and then stopped (would drop to 400 RPM and shake real bad). Had some misfire codes so I decided to do some digging. Where to start looking for air leaks pre upper fuel bowl?
YouTube.....
Also, does this mean the air has toasted my injectors?
YouTube.....
My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
We recently had a flash flood. No big deal, I was meaning to buy a shot vac anyways.
Anyways, the day after I started using my car, and noticed that my seat belt warning light stayed on, even when I was wearing it. Same went for the "Airbag" light. A couple of days later, the seat belt light start doing what it was supposed to; it would go off once the belt was "clicked". The airbag light has been on for some time. I figured I'd stop in to autozone and see if they couldn't check a code for me, but the nice gal behind the counter said they can only scan CHECK Engine/Service Engine lights. The airbag light, literally just the word "airbag" illuminated in red has been on for about two weeks now.
I imagine the flash food was nice enough to leave me with a shorted wire somewhere, but how to troubleshoot it.
It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
As I have been going speeds of 60-65mph, all of a sudden it acted like I downshifted or as if I slammed on the brakes. The rpms stay up, and it lasts just a second and continues fine. It almosts acts like something is catching. I had a mechanic replace the rotor and front brakes thinking that was the problem but it did it again this morning. A different mechanic thinks it could be the drive shaft and cv joints although everything is tight and the cv boots aren't cracked or anything.
View 4 RepliesWhat kind of mpg increase one would see if they were to increase the tire pressures from recommended (35 F/33 R psi) to max (44 F/ 42 R). Any stats of tracked?
View 1 Replies