Lumina :: 1998 - Thermostat Housing Won't Seal Anymore
Mar 14, 2016
So I was replacing thermostat in 98 lumina 3.1 and use the wrong bolt for the upper bolt on the housing and it broke where it mounts onto the block. Now the housing won't seal over thermostat and just spread coolant everywhere... Is there an easier and less expensive way of fixing or do I have to get a whole new motor?
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My explorer with 4.0 sohc is starting to leak fluid out of the thermostat housing. How hard is this to do and what can I expect in cost to do it myself. I dont drive this explorer but about 2 miles each way to work as I live on a military post. I have been putting it off ( just keep adding coolant and water) every couple of days. I have noticed that the engine temp doesnt not get up to half way like it use too. Maybe 1/4 of the way on the gauge now. I have always flushed coolant system very two years. It is starting to get some rush in the overflow bottle now too. Other then that she runs good and no other engine issues. She does have a 136k on her.
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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I have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
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Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
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'06 powerstroke, 215k stock
Doing a coolant flush, took the thermostat out but cannot figure out how to get it out of the housing.
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I set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.
When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.
The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.
I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.
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I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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Tried to flush it and got as far as draining everything. I can't hook up my T and begin the flushing process because I can't remove the thermostat. I have a buddy who can get the bolt out but I'd have to be able to drive the truck to him. I've tried just about everything to remove it. I did manage to find some replacements for when I do get the last one out though .Is there a way to still flush this thing like maybe just hook up the hose to the t and run the engine with the heat on to open the thermostat?
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So I noticed when I check the oil, there is a very small amount of water at the end of the dipstick and also water mixing with oil around the oil cap. It is not much water at all, but my first thought was head gasket. I was loosing very small amounts of coolant, but found a small leak at the thermostat housing....The truck runs fine, idles fine, no bubbles coming from the radiator at startup, no moisture from exhaust. It seems to be using more oil than normal, but I drive it 100 miles a day still and no major issues other than the perplexing bit of water and oil mixing. Could it be a tiny head gasket leak? What else would cause the water and oil to come together.
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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I have a 2015 gti se 2 door. The seal between the door and the mirror housing is out of place. I would like to loosen the housing and adjust the rubber seal. I see a cap inside the door Opposite the mirror, and believe that's how I'd do it.
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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I replaced my Radiator, Upper and Lower Hoses, Thermostat and the thermostat gasket yesterday. I am leaking coolant from the thermostat though, It's coming from the seal between the housing and the block. The gasket was brand new and seemed to fit fine. I don't see any damage around where the seal is made..
Going to run and get a new gasket when the store opens.
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Just bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
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Need to check a rear brake tomorrow. I looked around the side of the car and there doesn't appear to be a flat spot for a floor jack. There is an area that looks bent like someone used a floor jack there but not sure it is the right place to lift. I have the factory manuals and they don't point to the locations either.
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problem is the my 1998 Legacy (142K) overheated this past weekend. It shut off and I had it towed to a "new" mechanic around the corner from my house. He diagnosed the problem as being a faulty thermostat. He replaced the thermostat and returned the vehicle to me. Two days later my wife was driving home and the car had a major overheating incident with resulting serious mechanical failure. I did a little research and within about five minutes found that this problem is quite common for this car and is more commonly related to a head gasket issue. My question is should this mechanic be held responsible in any way for the misdiagnosed problem? If so, what would be the best course of action? The car was otherwise running fine and in fact I recently had the transmission rebuilt.
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1998 3.1 ... 206,000 miles on it. Transmission rebulit about 25,000 miles ago, about 1 year ago.
Yesterday and again today from initial takeoff i noticed a whistling sound from about 20 mph up to about 40 mph.and it seemed to increase as i applied throttle. Is there some kind of vacuum to do with the choke maybe causing it?
I didnt notice the whistle after car was operating temp.
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The last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
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