Lumina :: 1998 - How To Use A Floor Jack
Jun 13, 2013
Need to check a rear brake tomorrow. I looked around the side of the car and there doesn't appear to be a flat spot for a floor jack. There is an area that looks bent like someone used a floor jack there but not sure it is the right place to lift. I have the factory manuals and they don't point to the locations either.
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I recently lowered my car and installed some CF side skirts, but when I went to go do an oil change, my floor jack barely fit under the car, and when I started jacking it up, it started applying pressure to my CF sideskirt. I was cringing as I was watching it flex, hoping it wouldn't cause the clear coat to "web".
I ended up finding a couple blocks of wood, and drove up on them to get the car an extra inch higher off the ground, but my CF side skirt was still meeting my floor jack. Those of you who are lowered with side splitters/skirts.
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I have a AC Delco 3 1/2 ton that will blead down faster than I could get a jack stand under the truck. Not that I've tried. Just curious where to go from here without wasting more money.
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So I was replacing thermostat in 98 lumina 3.1 and use the wrong bolt for the upper bolt on the housing and it broke where it mounts onto the block. Now the housing won't seal over thermostat and just spread coolant everywhere... Is there an easier and less expensive way of fixing or do I have to get a whole new motor?
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1998 3.1 ... 206,000 miles on it. Transmission rebulit about 25,000 miles ago, about 1 year ago.
Yesterday and again today from initial takeoff i noticed a whistling sound from about 20 mph up to about 40 mph.and it seemed to increase as i applied throttle. Is there some kind of vacuum to do with the choke maybe causing it?
I didnt notice the whistle after car was operating temp.
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The last time I had my car serviced, the mechanic told me that while it wasn't a pressing issue, my power steering pump was starting to go. Lo and behold, it's that time. I started to notice that while idling I hear a dry, raspy sound coming from the engine. I left the car on, opened the hood, and it's definitely something spun by the belt. I'm 99% sure it's the power steering pump, so I'm going to replace it. Furthermore, do I need to "bleed" the lines? How does one go about doing that, anyhow?
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My 98 chevy luminas service engine light came on after I got gas. I put vaseline around the threads to seal it and the light went out for 2 days and then came on again. I bought a new cap and the same thing happened, two days light out than back on. I took the car to Autozone and did a diagnostics test which came back with error message P0341, then took it a mechanic who ran his on diagnostics on it and he says the camshaft sensor needs changed. It is a semi expensive job for an older car and I want to be sure that that is the problem, plus the gas cap thing has me confused.
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My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
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We recently had a flash flood. No big deal, I was meaning to buy a shot vac anyways.
Anyways, the day after I started using my car, and noticed that my seat belt warning light stayed on, even when I was wearing it. Same went for the "Airbag" light. A couple of days later, the seat belt light start doing what it was supposed to; it would go off once the belt was "clicked". The airbag light has been on for some time. I figured I'd stop in to autozone and see if they couldn't check a code for me, but the nice gal behind the counter said they can only scan CHECK Engine/Service Engine lights. The airbag light, literally just the word "airbag" illuminated in red has been on for about two weeks now.
I imagine the flash food was nice enough to leave me with a shorted wire somewhere, but how to troubleshoot it.
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I have a 98 gtp 2 door with the electronic dual zone climate control. I can't get air to blow much out of the floor vents. I applied vacuum directly to the actuator and air came from the vents fine. It seems there is a box behind the glove box that controls the vacuum to each actuator. My question is, would the issue likely be with that vacuum distribution box or with the electronic climate box itself.
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I bought a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo about 3-4 months ago. One problem i have is that the heat wont switch from the floor. I've heard the motor that does this is called the mode actuator, which moves a flap to direct air to different ducts, etc. I've checked all vacuum line that i could see, nothing. It is quite hard to work on as everything is literally jammed under the dash. It is also quite dangerous as I cannot defrost my windshield in the winter. I get a tiny bit of heat up to the defroster, but not a lot. Heat works very well, but cannot switch from floor. Cant even hear the little hiss that you get on other cars when you switch. I just have the basic 3 knob fan speed, directional flow, and temp knobs, as well as an A/C button.
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I have a ford f150 supercab XLT with the 4.6L triton. It starts and idles absolutely fine but when i push the gas to fast(when in park) it bogs down. I just changed the fuel filter aslo...No change.
If I floor it it Bogs then goes up to about 3000rpm (about halfway) and has trouble moving over that RPM or halfway. like theres a restriction of some sort.
If I gradually push the gas, it will go up in rpms and i can get it to about 2000 rpms then I can tack the rpm gauge out if I wanted. but never do.
Also when driving, it seems as if its lacking power..and just to add it does all this stuff while in gear also..
When running It smells of an exhaust leak. but I cant find one. And I cant smell it in the cab.
So there it is. If I think of anything else, or do anything. I will keep posting.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota in very good shape. I bought it from my brother who has owned it since 2000. I drove the truck from Reno, NV to southeast Alaska where I live, and all along the pacific coast. It rained a LOT and I noticed pooling of water on the floor at my feet, soaking the carpet completely and pooling up. I thought I was tracking water in the truck from my boots. BUt I have had it here in Alaska for 7 months now, and it is still HORRIBLE! It rains here all the time and I can't get rid of the puddles. There are no plugs in the floor for drainage and I can't figure out where it is coming in. The windshield looks good, and the door seals look good also. I cannot figure out where the water is getting in so I can stop it. THe truck is going to rot and rust if I can't fix it! And here's the thing, the water is pooling on BOTH sides of the floor-passenger and driver. I am baffled. No one ever sits on the passenger side so its not coming from boots! there is no way for water to flow from one side of the floor to the other.
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1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
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98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
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So I am reading through my manual for my 3 day old non-nav R32. My dealer told me where the AUX jack is (I have a non iPod MP3 player), but I don't see anything in the manual about how I get it to work. Not that I have tried yet, I need to go and get a male-male stereo jack first. But I don't see any button on the non-nav stereo in the car that points to enabling the AUX jack.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and use the aux jack all the time for my iPod. About 3 months ago it would intermittently go mono and then I would jiggle the cable going to the aux jack and it would resume stereo. Now it is full time mono through the left speakers only and I have tried to switch cables with no success.
When I was in for service, I mentioned this to the dealer and he told me it is because I was not using a "Hyundai" cable to connect. Now I know this is B.S. as it is an industry standard headphone jack. Another client at the counter said hers was doing the same thing too.
I was thinking I had to pull the aux connector out of the radio and look for a loose wire or something.
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I have a 2008 Passat Lux with an ipod dock in my glove compartment which I would like to turn into an aux input if possible. There is no AUX input under my hand-rest so the ipod connector in my glove compartment seems to be the only way for me to listen to my music from my phone in the car. I have found several cables that convert IPod to 3.5mm jack (and hopeful vice-versa?) Will this work somehow or am I stuck with the ipod connector without any aux input?
[URL].........
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I use an USB drive with my other radios. Is there a way to get an adapter to allow a USB drive to talk to the Prius radio, without going the IPOD route? Don't have an IPOD but plenty of USB's with music...
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I have a 2008. My car has a 12V socket in the centre console, but no auxiliary jack.
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Where is the aux input jack on the 2005 f150? I have the console button but no input jack?
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