I have a 1995 lumina. Yesterday the oil light came on. There is plenty of oil but the light stays on. I'm thinking it is either the oil pump or the sensor. How do I determine which???
View 14 Replies1995 Lumina LS 3.1L w/ ~185K mi
A few weeks back, the amber ABS light would periodically illuminate and then became more frequent until it was On every time I used the car. The light only comes on after driving the car forward ~10-20ft. Recently in the past few days, the red brake light also started coming on at the exact same time as the amber ABS light. I can start up the car and idle, backup, and then as soon as I drive forward 10-20ft., both lights simultaneously illuminate, along with the sound of something that is engaging/closing/switching etc. coming from the front driver's side, maybe where the brake module is located. The sound coincides with the illumination of the lights. There is also absolutely no noticeable difference in braking.
I just changed the oil a couple days ago and the fluid level was good and appears to have not moved at all since I flushed the lines ~2.5yrs. ago. I cannot recall if I returned the pistons to the home position back then, but either way I was able to bleed all 4 lines.
What may be causing both lights to illuminate together when the car moves forward in addition to coinciding with a sort of clunking/engaging noise coming from the front driver's side?
If I have to replace the EBCM, then do I need a scan tool?
I already called Module Master and they do not rebuild any GM EBCMs built before 1999. Looks like Rock Auto has some though.
1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
View 8 RepliesTPMS sensor has recently came in and stays on. However i checked all 4 tires and the pressures in them are at the appropriate values. I am assuming this could be related to maybe the system just not "seeing" one of the sensors or something. I heard if you use an OBD2 adapter you can see the values reported and it will show exactly what tire is reporting the problem.
View 13 RepliesHaving this problem with the tire sensor light? It's been back to the dealer three times now, and always comes right back on.
View 40 RepliesOn Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
Trying to be proactive seems to have backfired on me. What to do? Pull sensors and clean? Checked codes points to both left and right sides.
View 14 RepliesGot no heat in my 1995 Chevy Lumina passenger car with 3100 engine. Have replaced thermostat, water pump and replaced freeze plug that had a pinhole in it. Heater still blowing cold air and temp gage only moves slightly - stays in low range never reaches normal operating temp. what's causing the problem and how to fix it?
View 9 RepliesAfter my 95 GCL wouldn't start and was towed to Jeep dealership, the problem was diagnosed has the fuel pump. I went to pick up my Jeep. Started and ran beautifully..but I noticed the air bag light was on, and wasn't that way before it wouldn't start. Went back into dealership and told'em..they told me nothing they did would have any bearing on the air bag or the dash warning light. What could have happened to cause this problem? I have re-booted the electrical system (more than once) by disconnecting the battery.
View 1 RepliesThe warning in the title has been appearing for months. Push reset and the display message goes away but the orange light stays on. No rhyme or reason. Sometimes it's gone after a restart for a day or two. Sometimes it stays on no matter how many times the truck is shut down and restarted in a day.
So I finally took it into Ford for service today because the truck is still under warranty. They ask if the tires have been replaced. Obviously they have because I've got BFG KO2s that are a size or two bigger than stock. But I explained that the tires have been on for several months and that the issued did not present itself when the truck came out of the tire shop. It didn't happen until a couple of months later.
So they tell me that their tool can't even detect that any sensors are present and that they'll break down a tire to check and see that a sensor is there. Two & a half hours later they tell me that they've ordered a body control module and cut me loose with the truck. They'll call when the part is here.
How do I know if my 1995 Chevy Lumina has anti-lock brakes (ABS)???
View 2 RepliesTwo days ago, I brought my 1995 Chevy Lumina to my repair shop I've been doing business with for years...they replaced an A/C compressor, oil change and flushed the sludge. Now today, this morning, I crank it up and the steering wheel is almost impossible to turn...making it almost impossible to drive and unsafe to attempt. My plan is to call them tomorrow and have them tow it and inspect...another expense. This car has been a fabulous 2nd vehicle with 155K miles on it...I'd like to keep it, but might have to exercise other options if the cost/benefit ratio is out of whack.
View 15 RepliesMy brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1995 Chevrolet Lumina with about 175,000 miles on it. I've noticed in the past few months that the lights seem a bit dimmer, and the turn signal doesn't always work for the rear blinkers. It blinks rapidly in the front, but after a nudge to the turn signal, it slows down and begins to work in the back. Within the past couple of weeks, when the turn signal is on, it causes the speedometer indicator to pulse with the signal.
I took it in for the low lights and the signalling issue, and they said it might be the battery since it wasn't giving at a full charge. That was replaced, and the issues were still there. After that they said it would be an issue of getting into the steering column which would be a couple hundred dollars just to try and find the problem, but they couldn't guarantee that would actually find the problem.
I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
View 3 RepliesWithout key even in ignition, fuel pump relay clicks constantly every 8 seconds with the gauge lights illuminating during this 8 seconds. The only lights that function are the gauge lights. Upon turning on the headlight switch only the gauge lights illumin8. Absolutely no headlights, dome light or brake lights. No fuel pump sense/pulse. No radio, key on or in accessories.
Multi-function switch was not the issue. How would I troubleshoot this one?
1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
recently started getting a 336 code indicating crankshaft positioning sensor out of limits.
removed the 7x sensor but it seems ok and the car does start ok. checked the ECM input of the 24x sensor and I never get anything but straight 11.2 volts when crank turns. checked at the 24x connector and get the same. (green lead on B connection).
problem I have is getting to the sensor. The crank pulley bolt just will not let go! I've tried impact gun set to max,(typical DIY type gun, not the best) and tried a breaker bar with hammer. how to get the crankshaft balancer off.
I have a 1996 Lumina 3.1. For the last few years, every now and then I would turn on the key, all electrical systems, lights, windows, radio, etc. would work but it wouldn't turn over. If I waited about 4 minutes it would start perfectly and it wouldn't happen again for up to a month. Last week it did it and after I waited and tried it again it turned over once then everything went dead. A mechanic (friend) installed a new battery and it started. He took it to his shop and installed a new computer. Everything read fine, but now when you turn on the key it will turn over fine but not start. Leave the key on and wait about 2 minutes till you hear the fuel pump start and the engine will start fine. If you stop for a few minutes it will start but if you stop for more than 5 or 10 minutes you have to wait for the fuel pump to come on again.
View 7 Replies'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
So I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina (3.1L V6 engine) and I keep getting a DTC code P0101, which is a Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction. It's rather annoying because every time this happens, my engine shuts off. I'm talking no power steering, no power breaks, no acceleration, nothing. So I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it continues to stop about every five minutes. However, it does something odd and that is that the car drives just fine when it's in Overdrive and stops when it's in regular drive. I don't know if that's important, but I thought it might diagnose the problem.
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