Lumina :: 1993 - Shaky And Sluggish And Not Wanting To Accelerate
Oct 4, 2015
93, 3.1 Left work the other day, started to back out of the spot when I noticed the car was a little louder than normal. Acted like it didn't have as much power. Luckily I don't live far so I went ahead and drove on home. Car was shaky and sluggish, not wanting to accelerate. My first instinct was the cat. was clogged, but I let someone else look at it and they determined that it was not the cat. A little later, looked under the hood to find that the water pump was spitting coolant up on the underside of the hood.
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My wife's '93 Chevy Lumina has a strange habit of not starting unless I charge the battery overnight. The lights don't dim when I turn the key which would normally tell me that the battery and connections are fine, but the solenoid won't energize. If I trickle charge the battery overnight it will start fine. Now this generally happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time. Computer maybe?
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Passenger door on my 93. I took some pix to try to figure out what was going on and what I'm dealing with because I'm basically having to go in blind. The door opens from the inside but won't from the outside. Awhile back it was becoming difficult to open from the outside, like you really had to give it a solid tug to get the door to open. Now it won't open from the outside at all. I noticed today that the handle is a little loose and I found out why once I looked in there: there is only 1 bolt holding the handle on instead of 2 (not sure how that could possibly be causing my problem???) For now I pushed the door panel back on and shut the door (minus screws/bolts/plates) because I'd like to figure this out soon!
Pictures : [URL] .....
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I have a 1993 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1 that decided it wasn't going to start one day. The night before it ran perfectly fine with no issues. When I would turn the key to start it, it acted like the battery was not charged. It didn't click or make any sounds. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't hold, so went and bought a new one. Got it hooked up and tried to start it again, and nothing.
A friend came over and tried to check the starter by trying to start it directly from under the car while the key was on. The starter clicked but the car didn't come on. He also checked the alternator and it was fine. He then went and checked to see if the fly wheel would turn, the one on the right side of the car with the bolt. It was locked solid. He tried to say that meant the engine was gone on it.
I don't know. I do know I have had to replace the timing chain on it years ago. The fuel pump and all that was replaced a year ago. It keeps bugging me that it's something else and not the engine being gone in it. I have also had the ignition replaced a while back as well when the previous one shorted out. What is possibly the cause and hoping beyond hope that it's not the engine? I am the second owner and it has 188k original miles on it and it's nearly 25 years old. The fact that it does the same thing with a new battery tells me it's more electrical than mechanical wise.
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We have a 1993 Ford Aerostar 4wd Eddie Bauer edition. This van has 150,000 miles on it. In the past 2 years we've had a number of problems related to the van idling hard and having a lack of power.
First, the van revved high and low and was unable to maintain a steady idle....I replaced the throttle positioning sensor and this fixed the problem. Next, the van was running sluggish and was very slow to respond when you pushed the accelerator....I replaced the oxygen sensor and it fixed the problem.
Currently, (a few months after changing the oxygen sensor and the problem being temporarily fixed) the van is having the same issue as before I replaced the O2 sensor (running sluggish and slow to respond to the accelerator). If you press the accelerator down (even to the floor) it barely responds, you can get it driving at highways speeds but it takes a long time to baby it up to those speeds.
When you let off the accelerator after pressing the petal down it actually sometimes gets a second of power. It also is not maintaining a stable idle (fluctuating between high and nearly dying). I bought a new 02 sensor and installed it but it didn't fix the problem this time. The exhaust smells rich in gas. What else might make the van run like this? Possible solutions for where to look next?
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1993 Golf GL III, automatic: Engine size: 2.0 Date on door 5/1993
I have an intermittent problem, in the morning my car will start fine, idle fine and drive well for about six blocks, but then it suddenly bogs down and goes sluggish like it is not getting gas or not firing correctly. It has not stalled completely, it just bogs down and giving it gas does not do much. I can barely coax the car to my destination about a mile away.
The weird part: A few hours later when I leave this location my car runs fine, starts fine, drives fine and I have no problems the rest of the day. Thus, I only have this problem in the morning, otherwise the car runs great.
Question: Could there be a sensor that is reading incorrectly in the morning, but is fine after it warms up? Perhaps the sensor is messing up the air/gas mixture.
NOTE: My check engine light is on, but I have not figured out how to pull the codes. In the middle console, above the ash tray behind two unused button panels, I have two diagnostic connectors, one black and one white (see photo). I think they may be 2x2 connectors, perhaps OBD1, but I am not sure.
* I have heard a jumper cable can be used to get the codes to blink, but I have not found any documentation to confirm that for this year and model.
* I am also not sure if an OBD2 scanner could read this codes if I use an 16 pin adapter.
Pull codes, either using a jumper or scanner, My local auto parts stores will not pull the codes.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
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So I put one more extra quart or oil in accidently, and my car started being sluggish while trying to accelerate, no backfiring, just some gray smoke, then the smoke went away, and it stopped being sluggish, the boys at work are emptying out the oil right now, is this normal? Like, the car is working perfectly fine now...
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My 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
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Well I just set the timing on my rebuilt chevy 5.7 1999 suburban. It still runs sluggish when I accelerate and idles nice when it'd parked. I rebuilt the whole part part of engine. This is what I did notice when I cleaned under the lower intake manifold where the fuel injectors plug in. Here is a attached picture.
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
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I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
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I have a 91 Mitsubishi gto TT. I love my car and i was really hoping to repaint it soon but this problem is becoming more apparent. My car runs fine for the first 15 minutes, runs like a beauty! but then once it is warmed up it starts to struggle. I cant accelerate hard because it hesitates alot. The problem im having is pin pointing the problem. Ive searched a lot of stuff on the web and some people have similar problems.
Could it be bad spark plugs and wires causing some cylinders not to run properly? If so then why does does it run fine for the first 10-15 minutes?
I'll probably have my plugs and wires changed to see if that changes anything.
I just dont understand why my car accelerates great when cold but when hot starts to run sluggish.
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl. This car just all of a sudden started shuttering and not wanting to take off. It will if I floor it but will still shutter a little?
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This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
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We recently had an issue with our 2011 GX460. My wife first experienced the transmission not wanting to engage after being put in drive. Once it did engage there was a loud bang/pop noise, then no issues afterwards. The same thing happened to me this weekend. It was weird, like the brakes had frozen up then suddenly released and the transmission slammed into gear. We bought the vehicle used a couple months ago with 39k miles. With factory warranty remaining it will be heading to the dealer shortly.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Corolla Manuel Transmission. Im currently experiencing an i idling issue. When i first start the car everything is pretty much ok. Until it finally heats up and reaches normal temperature. After that it boggs really low almost wanting to stall out. When I'm driving i have no issues it drives smoothly and shifts fine. This is a list of everything i have done so far:
Vacuum line cleaning
Throttle body and EGR valve cleaning as well as checked for cracks (After I cleaned this it seemed to work a little)
Tune up (wires, plugs, cap, rotor,)Changed the fuel filter
Ran lucas fuel injector cleaner
Cleaned the IAC
Not really sure what else to do.
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I just bought my 06 Sonata 3 weeks ago with 124k. Nice car. I just can't get rid of the vibration that starts right around 60-65 mph. Just had new inner and outer tie rod ends on driver side replaced and then took it back and they rebalanced the wheels. Still shook on the drive home.
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Had the shaky steering wheel @ 50-65 MPH. I remember this happened to my other car after the brakes were inspected. The tech put the rim on without cross tightening the lug nuts.
Anyway I took off the wheel and noticed the brake rotor was not lined up with lug bolts. In other words the bolts were not centered on the holes of the brake rotor. So I broke the rotor free and lined up the holes. Put the wheel back on and now no shakes at 50MPH. I do get just a little of shake on braking at high speed but thats all.
I think the rotor can get stuck on the edge of the bore and not able to seat firmly on the spindle.
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