Lumina :: 1990 - Accelerates Slowly Dies In Reverse
Jan 9, 2015
I have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
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I am the new owner (one week) of a VW Phaeton 3.2 V6 (2003). Tonight, after I put a sudden brake, the car accelerates slowly at first and then, after increases speed, goes well. Going in reverse it's ok, no problem.
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We have a Galant with approximately 76,000 miles. Lately, we have noticed that when it rains the car sputters and accelerates really slowly up to 30 mph. Once we get to 30, it acts normal. Sometimes if we turn the car off and then start it again, this problem goes away. My guess is it is something with the computer.
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My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
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Problem started several weeks ago when after starting vehicle the battery light came on and vehicle would not accelerate. Turned off vehicle and restarted and ran fine for a week. Last week same problem, but occured mutiple times at one location. Eventually got vehicle going and drove it homehome Vehicle ran fine the whole time. Now when starting it runs for about 15 seconds (with battery light out) and shuts off. When trying to keep running by feathering the accelerator it has no power and eventually dies. Ran VAG-COM but got no faults.
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So about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
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I have a 1990 3.1L, multiport fuel injection (NOT sequential FI), which runs very well most of the time. However, when I cold start it runs rough (misfire) for about 1 minute (no throttle) or until acclerated. The is no misfire when running normal, but it might be running a little rough when stopped at a traffic light (in Drive, foot on brake).
I put new plugs and wires on, but it did not affect this problem.
I am not using coolant, or oil, the plugs that were removed were somewhat worn, enough that I expected to notice a difference after they were changed.
I have not yet (1) cleaned the MAF, (2) checked carefully for vacuum leaks, (3) checked for leaking injectors.
Since this is a 1990, OBDI, I can't say which cylinder is misfiring or how the fuel trims look etc.
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Last winter, my car sporadically stopped while I was driving slowly or while I was standing still. I usually turned the engine off and restarted it right away without a problem. It happened a few times and then it stopped. This winter, it began again - frequently. I realize now that it only happens during the cold months.
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My brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
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1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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Noticed my beater Honda del Sol (177k miles) idling slowly the other day. Normal 45F day, light urban driving. Usually idle is ~800rpm (indicated), was dropping to 600rpm and even 500rpm. Holding her at 1000rpm then releasing the gas pedal yielded ~300rpm and it almost died, followed by ~500rpm. Ran fine at any other speed; it had no hesitation, no noises, and no warning lights.
So my GF said, "you're probably low on oil; my Cooper S did that once". Huh? Why would low oil, other than if it were so low that it starved the engine and caused friction, impact the idle? If anything, I'd think it would idle faster with less fluid to pump, and/or with hotter and hence thinner oil (assuming it'll run hotter if it has less oil, which it didn't appear to be).
Sure enough, I checked and it was about a quart low. I've never had a car that uses oil, plus my cars usually have oil pressure & oil level indicators (i.e. Porsche 944S2). So I've never run those lower than near the bottom of the "normal" range.
Searching "The Google" only provided unsatisfactory answers about metal-to-metal grinding and galling slowing down the engine, which is not what is happening here. There is still oil pressure, the oil light does not come on, and the engine sounds "normal". And adding oil immediately cured the slow idle.
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I have a 2006 Buick Lacrosse with the 3800 Series 3 V6. It has 140K miles. Lately on warmish starts (after shopping for example) the car will start then slowly die (not all the time but a good chunk of the time). It starts fine when truly warm, and usually when it's cold it's fine too. It runs great otherwise. It never stalls or dies otherwise.The car has new plugs and wires, a newish battery, a new air filter and I cleaned the MAF sensor. I've only had the car about 6 months, and noticed the problem in the last couple.I scanned for codes and there are none, also there is no check engine light. The car doesn't have an IAC valve or a fuel filter (I know those are common culprits)But it starts easier when cold (even -20) than when warmish. Here are two videos I took of me starting it. *note the coolant temperature gauge. It's partially warm.
[URL] ....
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I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
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diagnose a problem with their 1995 Ford Windstar. The van slowly dies when idling. It runs for a few seconds after being jumped and then the dash lights slowly dim after which the van stops running. We replaced the battery and the van ran for about a day or so without issue. However, the problem is back. I suspected the alternator was faulty, so we pulled it and took it to a parts store to be bench tested. It was tested twice and passed both times. Does this sound like an alternator problem? Could there be an issue with the battery cables? What else might be causing this?
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My truck is having a problem lately where it will suddenly die while driving. It feels like it loses either spark or fuel and happens about 20-30 minutes after I drive it. Once it dies you can turn the key off and restart it and it will fire up and run again, for how long I'm not sure because I'm almost home about that time. It has a fairly new fuel pump, 2 years old, a fuel filter the same age, new cap and rotor, new air filter, probably could use some new plugs. I replaced the TPS with an older one that I had laying around and had no change in performance. I get a 34 and 43 code (MAP and knock sensor) when I do a diagnostic on it.My question is do you think a MAP sensor or knock sensor would cause this kind of failure before I go out and buy them? I'm leaning towards the MAP sensor but not sure that it would have this kind of an effect on the engine.
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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I own a 2009 Prius and have had occasional issues with the car not starting in cold weather and have had to jump start it a few times. Fortunately that was successful. Today I noticed a new problem. In the past we have had problems with the car making a beeping noise, and the car with key symbol would blink. I have ignored that issue as it only lasted a short time. Today the car was beeping and when pushing the start button the car turned on but the dash lit up with the red triangle and exclamation point. We have had this happen before and would press the parking brake, then release it, push power button and it would shut off and we would restart without problems. Today the right headlamp went out followed by the left one about 30 seconds later. The fuel indicator began blinking as well as the drive/park indicator on the far left of the dash. The car eventually went dead although had very little light for overhead and glove box lights. The brake lights also worked. We have 125,000 miles on it with the original battery. Does this mean the battery finally went. If so how will we be able get the car out of the garage?
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My car will start up but wont idle when it idle it starts to die and gas just overflows thee carb and the motor slowly dies. Its a 1966 pontiac starchief with a rochester carb and 421....
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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I've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
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