Loses Oil Pressure At Idle After Driving Approx 10 Miles
Apr 23, 2003
1986 302 w/ 160k miles. Loses oil pressure at idle after driving approx 10 miles. Rev engine to about 1500 rpm and hold it there, pressure builds back up. Oil & filter change w/ 10W30 gives no improvement, oil & filter change w/ 20W50 cures problem for 100 miles, then the pressure starts dropping again. Oil pump problem or bad bearings? BTW, when pressure drops, I do not hear any lifter clatter.
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On Friday the engine in my V8 stalled while driving at approx 40 mph. I shut it off and restarted, and it idled very rough and stalled again. I had it towed home. Tried starting it at home. started and idled fine. Just went out this AM, started it and drove it around the neighborhood, ran fine. The check engine light never came on at any time. I had noticed one of the variable intake linkage arms as being busted and thought that was the cause. I now understand that that is most likely not related.
So, where does this leave me? As I was listing too it running, I noticed a faint humming coming from this thing on top of the motor. Underneath the VW logo cover is a round black plastic piece with a large hose attached to the side, and a hose coming out the bottom. If I tilt this slightly, the humming stops. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the stalling, but I'm fishing.
Why the car stalled, and/or if this crankcase ventilation/emissions device should be humming.
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2005 GX470 transmission shuddering. While lightly driving, I feel a shudder at approx 35 mph, then again at 45 mph. I took it to the local Lexus dealer to have them analyze. Would you believe I could not get it to shudder when the mechanic went for a ride-along. Meanwhile, I'll just wait until the problem gets worse then bring it back in.
The mechanic mentioned Lexus had problems with the LX a few years back with transmission shuddering, but not with the GX.
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I have an 06 Lexus GS300 awd. Yesterday, when I left out of my neighborhood, my car drove approx 1 mile and just STOPPED running. I coasted to the shoulder of the road & attempted to start it again. It cranked & started for about 2 secs & died again. After that, each time i tried to crank, it would try & try to start (starter sounded strong) yet would never "turn over". I could feel/hear a few rough spitting & sputtering type feelings/sounds trying to start it, but ultimately it wouldnt crank.
I called a friend (another single mom) to come get me & i purchased some starter fluid & went back to try it. We hooked it up to her battery as I had run mine low trying to crank it. After it had been sitting there while we went to the store, it again tried to crank when I attempted to start ot, but died again within a sec or 2. Then, wouldnt fully crank again. I hear my alternator clicking & as i said earlier, the starter sounds very strong & normal when i push the ignition button.
I tried to just turn it to the "on" position (2 button pushes), leave it a few secs, turn off, then try to crank again (hoping to "prime" the gas lines in case it somehow had sucked in any air or water....which it kinda "feels" like) Still after all that....nothing. I tried having my friend crank while i sprayed starter fluid into the intake, and it actually cranked and would stay running as long as i was continually spraying the fluid. The sec i stopped, it stopped. I really dont hear the fuel pump turning on, although admittedly I guess I never have paid attention before this to know if I ever could "hear" it previously. Im wondering if its just a very quiet one, or if its not turning on at all? (I understand it's in the back of the car kind of under the backseat & not under the hood).
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Have a 06 f350 just rebuilt the engine. Started up ran it down the road a couple miles and lost low side oil pressure. Got back to the house and will not start again so put a gauge on and it only has 3 lbs after cranking for 10-15 sec. Pulled the balancer and lpop cover and front cover had some deeper scoring then before. No noticeable stuff in the pan or filter. Changed out the front cover and lpop. Still has only about 5 psi.
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I have a 98 chevy 2500 5.7l.Im not getting oil to my heads. My oil pressure is 50 drivin 30 @ idle. so pumps workin at least half workin. do they go like that? or they work or they don't? Any trick or a test to run b4 i pull the pan.
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My 2013 Avalon Limited was purchased in Dec 2012. It is my 3rd one - have always loved them. But THIS one has been a disappointment. It seems that every 10k miles the battery completely loses its charge and the battery must be completely replaced or fully charged - RIDICULOUS. I only have 30k miles on it! Is this a known issue with Toyota? I have gone from feeling completely confident in my car to not knowing whether it will start up when I need it!
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I bought my GTI used and don't know what software its running but I have some questions about the boost pressure. When I'm in Idle the car will only boost to about 7-10psi when i rev the engine in neutral, But when I'm driving it will boost all the way to about 17-20psi if I really stomp it, 15psi if I'm just giving it a bit of "go". The car takes off and goes really quick, seems like it has a lot of power so I doubt there's a boost leak but I'm wondering does the car boost differently in Idle because it knows its not moving?
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2004 1500 5.3 low oil pressure after using Lucas engine stop leak. No pressure at idle just below 40 when driving. Replace the sending unit and pressure improved for about a day. Just had a manual pressure gauge hooked up and it shows the same as cluster. No engine noise at all. I was informed that using Seafoam or another solvent could loosen up build up and cause damage. Trying to find out if using an engine flush machine may support. I am assuming that the cause of the low oil pressure is due to build up from using several qt of the stop leak over a four months. I am the only owner and I have always changed the oil according to schedule and have always used Valvoline synthetic.
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
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When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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Jeep runs fine for days and then it will have a bad day. Loses power for a minute or two and then revs back up. If you stay on the gas it acts like it wants to stall something makes a loud banging noise under the jeep and then it takes off only to do the same thing in 2nd gear 3rd gear etc. Would o2 sensors try to shut it down? Throttle position sensor?
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While driving my lights flash like a strobe light and I can see this at night. The. The car loses electrical power for 1 sec and then all okay. In the morning when I start the car I get ESP errors whilst idling, I then turn the car off and try to start it again and everything is completely dead!
When connecting jumper cables then trying again it works, the. I don't have a problem for about 3 days the. The same thing happens. Battery is brand new, had it at the dealers and errors are intermittent electrical errors but doesn't say where.
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Today leaving work my 2009 Mazda Tribute suddenly lost all acceleration after pulling out of the parking lot. Didn't die but was running like it was about to. Pressing the gas pedal had no effect at all. When I turned the car off and started it again, it did start -- with trouble but it started. It ran OK for a few miles but suddenly lost acceleration again. Same thing. The car ran but the gas pedal had no effect. Shutting off and restarting got it going. In the 30 mile trip home it did it a total of 3 times. Each time shutting off and restarting. When I was able to accelerate, it seemed to accelerate OK, but at the same time felt weak and .... laggy. That last part could just be in my head though. Just wondering where to start to fix this.
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5.0L V-8, Electronic Fuel Injection, 79,000 miles, 2 WD, 4 speed manual. I'm the original owner.
If I drive it 4-5 miles on secondary streets (25-40 MPH) it shuts off without warning after 10 minutes and will not restart without a 20-30 minute wait. If I drive it 2-3 miles and park it for a couple of minutes it will not restart without waiting 20-30 minutes. Checked engine water temp gauge and it is normal.
The local mechanics found no spark when it failed at their garage. They replaced the ignition module on distributor. This did not fix the problem. In their second attempt they replaced the coil. Still the same problems persists and the mechanics are stumped.
It's like something in ignition package heats up after 10 minutes and either sticks open causing no spark or closes shorting out the spark if that is possible. What is causing this and how to fix it.
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX that was converted from automatic to 5 speed. It hesitates while I drive, only sometimes. Normally it does it when I am pulling off from a stopped position or when turning the corner and then accelerating. I will have my foot on the gas, but it won't gain speed unless I hold in the clutch and rev up the engine then it will pick up speed and go fine. Then sometimes it also hiccups while driving without accelerating, I can feel the car jerk a few times and start to loose power.
I will need to down shift to third, or most often 2nd gear and rev it again to gain power and to pick back up speed. Things done to it since i bought it only a few months ago by the person (who is a mechanic) I bought it from: oil change, fuel filter changed, Lucas gas treatment added (by me), new exhaust system installed, starter replaced. I am nervous that it may be rear-ended, or t-boned in heavy traffic. Should i have the fuel filter checked?
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My AWD 1996 Subaru Legacy Station Wagon suddenly loses power while I'm driving......
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My mercury Monteray 2004 model, suddenly loses power while driving. This has happened both on the freeway and on the local roads. I then have some how driven it to the shoulder. After stopping for couple of minutes when I restart the car it works and I have been able to drive it. I have taken it 3 times to the dealer and he has not been able to identify the problem. I am extremely scared of driving the vehicle. We even had flight recorder from the dealer on the vehicle and recorded the incident 3 to 4 times and still the dealer has not been able to figure out what the issue is. They say that they have tried several times and have not been able to recreate the issue. They say that they have tried to recreate the issue with a computer attached so they can record the issue when it occurs. But apparently they have never been able to recreate the issue. Other wise the van is in excellent condition. What could be the issue? We have not been able to use the van for over 6 months and do not know what to do with it.
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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