Lincoln - Navigator :: 2006 - Key Stuck In Ignition And Liftgate Not Working
Feb 22, 2016
Brief as possible. Key stuck in ignition. Will come out when battery disconnected. Lift gate stopped working at same time. Believe that car does not sense it is in park. Acts like if the car is in neutral or in gear, in that if you turn the car off in neutral or in gear, the key wont come out of the ignition and the liftgate wont open either. The shifter is not stuck, rear hatch window opens and the car drives normally. Not sure if it is a switch or a sensor.
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
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I recently had my rear window (liftgate) broken. The glass has been replaced but, now I cannot open the liftgate!! I know some of the glass fell down into the door. My thoughts are, maybe some glass jammed the mechanism? Is there anyway to open that door without breaking it?
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This is the original key that I've used since the car was new. This morning I stopped the car, shifted into PARK, and turned the key to shutoff the engine and accessories. The key turned completely as it should, but the steering wheel did not lock and the key will not come out. I messed with it a bit but with no luck. An usher walking by got in and tried it a few times, but no luck. The car will start and run fine, I just can't get the key out of the ignition.
This also means the key fob won't lock the doors, so I have to leave the key in the ignition and the doors are unlocked. GREAT!! I have an appointment with the dealership on Thursday of this week, until then I'm driving my other car and leaving the Sonata in the garage.
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. The key is stuck in the ignition. It will still start, but when I go to turn, it's like the key doesn't want to release those last few steps. Which is as safety issue because my car is sitting ready to be stolen. When I called the dealer they wanted to charge me, just to figure out what is going on with it plus labor and parts to fix it.
This is a known issue with the '06 Jeeps and Chrysler is not wanting to do anything about it. At this point, I just need the key out of the ignition. The dealer said they would have to pull the ignition system apart to get the key out which would cause the car not run at all. We tried tapping the key to get it to release and it hasn't done it yet. It did this once before and we where able to jiggle the key and it released but it is not working now.
Again it is a 2006 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7 Liter Engine it is now sitting at about 78000 miles happened the first time at about 50-55000 miles.
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My wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
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I have a 95 Town car that we use in Florida and yes my wife can see over the steering wheel. The ignition key is locked. I can get the key in and out but it will not turn at all. I've tried wiggling both the wheel and shifter with no luck. What do I do??
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I have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
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Just bought a 2000 Excursion PSD 4X4 last week. So far, I have really enjoyed it. There is just something special about these beasts.
I have had trouble with the liftgate lock not working. I tore into the liftgate and found that the actuator works just fine...the lock mechanism is just a little stubborn. I have soaked it liberally with wd-40. There is a lot of dirt road dust in the liftgate body.
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2006 Sonata GLS. When I lock/unlock door with keyfob, it beeps, but doors or trunks will not open/close. When I put key in ignition and either start or turn to on, I can press keyfob and lock/unlock doors and unlock trunk. Manual trunk release in drivers foot area does nothing unless car is on. Checked all fuses (passenger driver compartment and under hood). What is the exact fuse to focus on, or if this could be some other issue ? BCM ?
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I have 2006 Touareg with original keyless ignition . But unfortunately it stoped working . It writes in the dashboard screen that the key not found . I replaced the key battery but it is still the same . The car doesn't open automatically as well .
What could be the problem ?
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I have a problem with my keyless entry and liftgate. It began as an intermittent problem and now it is constant. I am unable to use my keyless entry. I have checked the batteries, reprogrammed the remotes and nothing works. I am unable to open my liftgate at all unless I go in through the access hole in the liftgate from the inside and manually flip the latch. WHAT A PAIN!I did some online research and found that this is an issue with the 2006 trailblazer. According to the information I found, it seems to be an issue with the wiring between the liftgate and the chassis. The "short" tells the vehicle that the door is open, and this is why the keyless and the liftgate have issues. I have taken the tape off of the wires, disconnected the coupling and inspected them. I do not see any frayed wires or rubbing issues. Where do I begin troubleshooting which wire is the problem and how do I fix this?
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I have 2006 Touareg with original keyless ignition . But unfortunately it stoped working . It writes in the dashboard screen that the key not found . I replaced the key battery but it is still the same . The car doesn't open automatically as well . What could be the problem ?
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I have tried everything I know to fix the mode switch on the climate control. It's stuck in one position and I can't switch to floor or defrost. I've replaced the climate control panel and actuator and I STILL cannot get the modes to switch. I don't know what is is between the two causing it not to work. I've tried everything I know and I just can't seem to get anywhere. I only have a test light to see if voltages change and I can only get the voltage to change on one wire but none of the others.
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The horn on my Lincoln ls is not working. I have checked horn switch
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The climate control in my 1995 lincoln continental will stop working on an intermittent basis but only in the summer. It usually seems to happen on very hot days after running a few errands. It only lasts 2-15 minutes and then operates normally for days or weeks. This has been happening for years. Nothing shows up on the mechanic's computer as respects diagnostic codes.
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The heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
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My daughter owns a 2006 Lincoln LS V8 and no matter where you set the controls on the panel it either blows wide open on "extremely" hot or nothing at all. The A/C is either not working, or something is very wrong with the controls on this vehicle. I've read older forums that all say may be the DCCV. In fact, we did the Self-Test and received a code 2798.
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Car wouldn't start on Wednesday so wife had neighbor jump start the car and she took it to the auto store and had the original battery replaced. On Friday, while driving the car, the battery light came on so she took it to the auto store to have the battery checked. When they went out to check it the car wouldn't start, only click. The battery has a full charge and doesn't drop when the key is turned. I pulled the starter and had it checked...it's good. I've checked relays and fuses and am coming up with nothing.
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I am at work and my wife is on the phone. They Treg would not start this morning and the key is stuck in the ignition. She tried using a pen to push the little button in but it won't move and the key won't budge. What is she doing wrong, and why did this happen? Is the battery drained?
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