Lincoln - Continental :: 2000 - Horrible Grinding / Rubbing Noise As Soon As The Engine Started
Jul 13, 2013
I own a 2000 Lincoln Continental and the other day it started making a horrible grinding/rubbing noise as soon as the engine started. I took it to my mechanic (been going to him for 6 years) and he said it was the Air Conditioner Compressor (specifically the clutch) was causing the noise and needed to be replaced.
If I remember correctly (I do not have any kind of documentation in front of me), the AC unit is at the bottom of the engine... Which could cause some issues. My question is, how easy/difficult is this to fix myself?
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I have replaced all the parts i can think of and yet my car will just die anywhere when the temperature gets above about 80. If i drive it for any length of time when i restart it, it sounds like a very large fan is starting and shudders for a minute.
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Mom's 2002 Lincoln Continental has 80,000 miles. Recently she's noticed that after she exits the vehicle the brake lights will come on by themselves and stay on until it drains the battery. It has only done that once in her garage. It baffled us as to why her brand new battery was dead. We charged it and she drove it and it was fine. Where she works, she can see her car from her desk. Her brake lights just came on by themselves. How she remedies this is by going out and tap once on the brake pedal and light goes out and stays out. She only seems to notice it coming on right after she parks and gets out. Then, like I said, she can tap the brake pedal and make light go out and stay out.
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The air starts out very cold but after a few minutes it warms up. A few minutes later it is cold again but then it warms up. This cycle repeats itself throughout the drive.
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The climate control in my 1995 lincoln continental will stop working on an intermittent basis but only in the summer. It usually seems to happen on very hot days after running a few errands. It only lasts 2-15 minutes and then operates normally for days or weeks. This has been happening for years. Nothing shows up on the mechanic's computer as respects diagnostic codes.
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I own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
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I may, or may not have had to jump a curb at 40 mph to avoid rear ending another car. Truck is a 2003 F-150, single cab stx package, 4.2ltr. Long story short, no damage to my passenger side front tire or rim that I can see, but I do have a horrible grinding noise when I turn the wheel either direction. The truck still turns properly, power steering fluid is level. What should I start replacing first?! She's got about 90k miles on it, I'm sure a lot of the suspension parts are due, just need to know where to start!
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04 with 200k miles, car started stuttering like out of gas, when stopped there was a grinding noise from engine. Took to dealer on trailer, when it was taken to the mechanic all problems went away. Changed oil looking for metal chips, none. Did computer upgrade which was the only code on the check engine light.
Drove car for two days on short trips, four or five times 20 to 30 miles. Ran great. At around 40 miles on next day same problem. No lights or codes of any type. Carried to dealer again, they said they were not sure if it is the engine, transmission, or something in between. I was told they would have to take it apart to find out and the least amount it would cost is $5,000.
The grinding occurs when the engine is running only. when revved up it is louder, at idle the noise changes while sitting in park, louder quieter etc. when driving on electric, sounds perfect. (no sound at all)
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I just recently I have been experiencing a rubbing/grinding noise from the rear right wheel, also it has made a clonking noise like a flat tyre but it isn't, I can hear the noise from about 25/30 mph when I go faster or slower i cant hear the noise.
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The steering on my wife's 2010 Tiguan makes a bit of a grinding/rubbing noise at low speeds? Something isn't right, it sounds the same way my X5 did when the Rack needed to be replaced. It would be strange to have 2 cars needing new racks within the same year....especially since they are both 2010 model.
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When I drive my prius and make sharp turns or any sort of UTURN, the wheels lock up, automatically brake and there is a grinding noise as if the wheels are rubbing and there is a beeping noise. I took my prius back to the dealer for warranty repairs and the problem persists. is this a normal thing?
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Just recently bought a 04 gli. When I shift in to 3rd and let off the gas there is a weird grinding rubbing like noise. It only makes the noise when it's in 3rd gear...
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My new 2013 Ford Explorer Limited (5000 miles) recently started making a grinding/rubbing noise with a slight to significant braking action in the middle of turns (typically left turns, at moderate to slow speed, e.g., at stoplights) when my foot is on the accelerator, not the brake. Lasts about 1 second, happens once a day or so, typically when the car is cold. The dealer was flummoxed, tried replacing the steering gear, but the same thing happened as soon as I drove out of the lot. Apparently no codes showing on brakes or ABS.
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My 05 Jetta TDI is intermittently making a rubbing/grinding noise. Not in stop and go traffic but when I come to a stop at a stop sign, but only just before I come to a complete stop, not as soon as I hit the brakes. The shop that put the brakes on (about 18000 miles ago) looked at pads, rotors and pedal but said it's all fine. Could it be the booster, abs, or something else completely?
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Just got a 2010 lariat supercrew...I put 1900 miles on it so far. When slowly letting off the accelerator (doing between 20-30 mph and between 1000-1500 rpm) there is a distinct rubbing sound for about 1-2 seconds...it is now sounding more like grinding now...took it to the shop today...(they couldn't duplicate (because service rep documented 60 mph instead of the 20-30 mph...went back at the end of the day to ride with the tech, and i was able to duplicate so now they have something to work with....also the noise happens mostly when the path of travel is either level road or slight to great incline..it has not happened on a down slope....
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I recently acquired a B4000(for a steal!), had it almost a month now and im starting to notice a few problems, all driveline related (I think).
1. Have a "grinding/rubbing" noise in a LEFT turn only. It is a 4x4 and I haven't turned a bolt on it yet, save for very minor stuff. Since this particular model has some costly parts, I'm trying to prevent buying unnecessary parts! I have a set of 31 x 10.50 on it, and even though there is some minor tire rub, im 90% certain this is not the case.
2. Has a somewhat "hard" shift when going into O/D(I think), doesn't do this all the time, I wonder if problem #2 and #3 are related.
3. Appears to be about 1in slack in the rear driveline, wondering if it is the rearend, and specifically the spider gears or pinion?
4. Also seems to be just a LITTLE slack in the front left CV axel, is this something I should be worried about? the front right is good and tight, Tcase shifts like its suppose to.
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I've got a new issue that is happening on the front end of my truck. Whenever I try turning my wheel while driving, I get this rubbing/grinding noise coming from the front of my truck. It only happens when the wheels are in motion. It seems to happen less when I'm driving at higher speeds, but I can notice it make the sound at any speed. I tried driving it slowly in an empty parking lot while turning and it's definitely making the sound every time the tires rotate.
I took it in for an alignment because this was happening every time I drove, whether it be driving straight or making a turn. Now that my alignment has been fixed, it no longer make this noise if I am driving in a straight line, so it only seems to happen when I'm turning. I had the mechanic check to see if they could reproduce the issue. The mechanic was able to hear what I hear, but when he put it on the lift at the shop, he was not able to reproduce the sound.
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So I had all of my belts changed including timing belt and tensioner pulley as well as an oil change. After, I noticed a weird pulsating grinding/wining noise coming from the engine bay. It only can be heard once the car is warmed up. (It is much louder in real life.).
Car Noise - YouTube
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My dually has started to make a rubbing or grinding noise just about every time I make a turn, left or right. What this could be, truck has 8500 miles on it.
SD Dually
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So... I bought Ksport Coilovers and had them installed about a month ago. Were on the car about a week and started to get creaking noises from the front. So, I contacted BSH (who sold them) who put me in contact with the Director of Operations for Ksport...
Send them to him, and he replies that he thinks my sway bar is high, and that it should be "parallel with the ground. Today when backing up (down right) I get a horrible scraping grinding sound. I stop, get out (thinking it is the fender liner) only to find no damage. So I keep checking and find a fresh scrape on the axle. I drive (gingerly) home and pull the wheels off and check everything in the front. It is all tight and nothing seems to be broken. I look at the sway bar end (which is curved).
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My 2007 hyundai sonota with the 3.3 starting making a horrible noise as if no engine oil and eventually just stopped. ( My son was driving it). The engine oil light did come on! I checked engine oil level, it was fine. I also checked oil filter and it looked good.
You could restart the car and drive it and it would run for 15 -20 minutes before the engine oil light comes on then 5 minutes later it dies. Let it sit and the same thing happens. So I pulled codes and got P-0011 (code of many causes)
I pulled the OCV (CVVT actuator) in the cylinder nearest the radiator (bank 1? not sure which bank this is). Actually it was the only one I could find. It was not easy and it is in a cramped spot almost directly under the intake manifold.
Never the less It tested at 7.8 ohms and it moved when I applied 12 volts. According to Haynes, this number is good and the action when voltage applied is in the correct range.
I am stuck now. Haynes manual implies there is only 1 OCV (CVVT actuator) for this year model, but gets confusing? Is there another OCV I can check, on the other bank near the firewall (bank 2).
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