From both the key remote and inside the car the power locks only occasionally respond. Currently most of the time just the driver side os working. Acts the same when the car is running and when it is off. Seems like the first time i hit lock or unlock it works but repeatedly doing it it stips moving the lock. Bad relay?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. The door locks do not respond to the remote or the switch on the door. If I disconnect the battery for a few seconds, they will work for a day or two. It seems to be a computer problem. Is there only one? Where is it and are there any other tests I can do to troubleshoot this?
View 3 RepliesHave a feeling it may be the actuator or the motors in the door. One by one, the power locks on my prius are not responding to the remote or the lock button on the door. The headlights no longer respond to the remote as well. Pressing the remote just causes the car alarm to chirp 4-5 times.
View 15 RepliesMy passenger front door lock will not work with remotes or lock unlock buttons inside vehicle.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 SC430 with 84,000 miles on it. The locks on both sides suddenly stopped working automatically. The car can only be unlocked from the outside with the key inserted in the door. The doors can only be operated from the inside by manually locking or unlocking each door on that door above the handle. Remote batteries are new. The Windows work fine. Could it be a fuse?
View 12 Replies I've noticed that in my B6, the locks don't seem to auto-lock when pulling away at 15km/hr just as the locks on my old B5 did. When the lights are on, the icons on the locks are red, yet when I manually lock the doors, ie. when I push the lock button, all the locks on all the doors have their locked icons turn yellow.
Does this mean the doors don't auto lock at a certain speed? If not, can I VAGCOM them to do this?
Also, on my euro-switch, I've done a DBL delete, but now the switch is like this:
Position 0 - DRL delete, no lights
Position 1 - Headlights, running lights and dash lights
Position 2 - Running lights and dash lights only
Position 3 - Headlights, running lights and dash lights (just like position 1)
I have a 2002 SC430 which I purchased recently. My driver side foglight bulb burned out six weeks ago, at which point I had a shop replace both foglight bulbs with brand new Sylvania standard "long life" bulbs from Auto Zone (not the ones with "blueish tint" or anything, absolute standard bulbs because I assumed they last longer than any "cool color" bulbs).
Now, six weeks later, the same driver side foglight burned out again. I cannot understand why a brand new bulb burned out so quickly again. The foglights do get turned on every time I drive the car (with the headlights), but still it seems too quick to burn out in six weeks of daily use.
Is there anything that could be causing the same foglight bulb to burn out so quickly? The car has no modifications, electrical, or otherwise. Interesting enough, the reason I did not decide to upgrade to aftermarket xenon/HID foglights is to avoid issues precisely like this one
'02 SC430 with just over 30K miles. She is wearing out the inside edges of the tires. We have had the car aligned twice in our one year ownership. Are these cars prone to this kind of wear and/or going out of alignment? Would this be a spring/shock/strut issue? I assume the original components are still on the car so maybe she just needs replacement parts due to age. She has low miles, but she is 11 years old now.
View 14 RepliesI have an '05 Lexus SC430 with 53,000 miles on it. For the past couple of years, I have noticed an intermittent antifreeze smell (sweet odor) when driving. It never lasts for long and is apparently coming out of the vents. I can not figure out any common denominator to cause this, other than the radiator was replaced in Nov. 2014. My long-time mechanic has ridden with me a few times and I am unable to recreate for him to diagnose.
View 9 RepliesThis morning while attempting to unlock the Touareg, the remote failed to "talk" to the Touareg. We just purchased our Touareg last Wednesday. The low battery warning was indicated when we bought it. However, battery had enough juice so that the remote still worked. I put a new battery in the remote the other day and remote worked like a champ, plus the warning went away. Remote was working great until this morning. Small green light on remote lights up to indicate signal is going out but Touareg doesn't respond.
I unlocked the truck by the key but I do not know how to disarm the alarm with the key. I tried turning and holding the key toward unlock but no luck, the truck does unlock this way, but the red lights still flash indicating alarm is still active. Tried a second new battery in the remote, no luck. Finally, after about 20 minutes, I left the Touareg in the driveway and took our other car to work. What do I do to get the remote back in sync with the vehicle? Also, how do I deactivate the alarm with the key in case the remote fails again?
Other than checking the fuse and the valet switch, anything else to look for when the trunk will not open via the key or the dash switch? The car does make the beep when the key remote is pressed, but no open. Also, the top works fine. Gas door works fine. Manual release of trunk also works.
View 9 RepliesThe battery seems good in key, but I can stand next to car and it will "click" but door wont lock or unlock.
View 3 RepliesWeird situation. Both remotes seem to be acting up. Especially in the mornings, they will not chime or unlock the doors. The red light flashes on the remote, but nothing happens. I open the door via the key blade insertion into door hole.
Sometimes if I slam the door, it starts working again. Not sure if just coincidence or not.
I changed the remote batteries. But even still, seems odd that it would be the remotes if both are doing the same thing.
My wife's 2010 Corolla has an issue where the key fob will open the truck and all the doors except the front driver door. Is this a common issue with the Corolla? What are the potential fixes?
View 2 RepliesMy Radiator fell inside the car I tried to pick it back up but its hooked on something in the bottom and I can move it. Not even sure how are why it would fall. is there some kinda of bracket that holds in place or a bolt?
View 6 RepliesI got into my sc430 2002 tonight and noticed that the little circle with triangle inside, that represents the car on the nav screen is blinking. I could swear that it is usually steady. Need to confirm, it's normally steady or blinking!
View 14 RepliesMy '03 driver's side door has been opened enough, and unfortunately with force when it catches a wind gust or opens downhill, etc, that it's actually resulted in a lengthening crack in the middle of the inside door panel. There are two hinges that are fine, which actually keep the door attached to the car frame.
In between, on the higher side of the inside of the door, there's a 'stopper' bolted to the door, with a bracket 'inside' the door. That's where the force of the door opening is applied to the door itself, and where the crack has appeared. It's already a good 4-6 inches long, and presumably will keep going.
In my head, the options seem to be:
-wait for the stopper to fully rip a piece of the door off, at which point the door will open all the way into the car itself.
-attempt a small scale weld 'in place' with a small overlay strip across the crack.
-pull the door all the way apart to where the welder felt more comfortable doing a solid repair job.
-find a replacement door altogether.
I'm having an issue on my remotes (2) I recently try and lock the doors with both remotes and sometimes it does not respond. I changed the battery 2 days ago and still having the issue. I will have to hit the remote 5 times next to driver's door to lock sometimes. Other times it's fine.
View 5 RepliesMy landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
View 4 RepliesToday I replaced my stock 95 Civic headlights with brighter (more white) halogen bulbs. The installation was fast and easy, however, I've noticed one problem after the installation; the remote power locks are no longer working. The car remote still flashes green when I press the button but I get no response from the power locks.
Because of this the alarm no longer activates when I lock my car from the remote. What could be causing the issue? Are the lights taking up too much power? Do I need a better battery? The lights are a big improvement from the stock lights however its very important for my car to be secure. It's been broken into twice, thieves love to target old Hondas...
Locked my keys in my car. A locksmith came and instead of using the tool to unlock using the unlock button, he just pulled the regular lever inside with the tool to open the door while it was locked. Since then I cannot open the driver's side door from the inside. It will open, lock and unlock fine from the outside. It is unlocked when I attempt to open it from the inside. I pull the lever and nothing happens. I have to unroll the window and open the door using the outside handle or crawl over to exit from the passenger side door.
View 4 Replies