Lexus SC430 :: T Stat Code Due To Hot Weather?
Dec 31, 2014
So this morning I started the SC up early to warm up a bit before I took off for work. Its 19 degrees outside. when I got into my car to leave the check engine light was on. Everything seem alright and the light not flashing so I thought I would stop by AutoZone to have code read. I was told T stat code. And that makes sense to me cause the temp gauge didn't hardly move off cold on the way to work. I noticed this once before when the temp dropped pretty low but didn't think anything of it.
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Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
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I have a check engine light for the Evap. the code there is a hose that comes off and you get the code. I have looked high and low for this hose, where actually this hose is or put a picture up so I can find it.
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P0051 together with VSC and VSC Off Lights
Over the weekend I had multiple P0051 and VSC and VSC Off Lights CELs
I have reset them using my OBDII scanner. It keeps on coming back.
This means the BANK 2 SENSOR 1 (just before the CAT) is reading low temps and therefore throwing a code. I get this.
Question is why do the VSC lights go "ON" too?
This started when I installed my ScanGage e this weekend. This is a change point.
Before I go purchase a Denso sensor, I would like to perform a series of tests:
1.Remove the ScanGage e. Test drive if any of the CELs (P0051 and VSC) come back.
2.If the same set comes back, clear the VSC lights code using our home made device.
If the VSC lights disappear and the P0051 comes back, I will replace the BANK 2 SENSOR 1 Oxygen sensor. Prior to replacing, I will check for wiring issues on this sensor.
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My check engine light came on.. so I took it to express tires.. And they said that they need to replace my vacuum hoses cause it busted ... well when I saw the guy used the obd checker thing.. after checking the codes.. i saw that when u turned on the engine.. the vsc on and vcs off lights came on..
So I figured after he fixed the problem.. it will go off.. well after he got done.. fixing the problem.. I drove away.. after bout like 2min.. i had to turn around cause the vsc on and vsc off came on.. and I told the guy to check.. And he used his checker.. and there was no problem.. and the "check engine" light is not on anymore.. just the vsc on and vsc off!!
Could the checker.. messed it up??? the vsc off button.. only works when the key is turned on.. " not when the engine started but right before it.. when the power comes on" so the button is working correctly.. it just comes on.. when i start driving the car...
And no they did not check my tire pressure or do anything to the tires or the wheels.. it just turned on.. when he inserted the obd thing to check..
And yes I read the [URL] .....
Is it dangerous to be driving with the vsc and vsc off light on??
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Just read that a clogged EGR valve is common and reduced performance and increases emissions. Need to clean this valve? Where is it located?? Just noticed tonight that there is not a lot of suction from my vacuum lines and I wondered if this is related. Plus I have a p0430.
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So yesterday I had Error 3 code display on my cd player and after messing around with the device i was able to get it to eject all the cds. Thinking all was well, i tried to load one cd and it won't even respond to me pushing on the button. There is no noise or error code coming from the unit. Whats going on here?
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y '02 SC430, which had been in an accident, is throwing a low voltage code and showing the airbag light. What was the reason for the code (C1336)?
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The car has an obvious misfire and the scanner says its Cyl # 8. I tried the "italian" tune-up and under heavy throttle the miss goes away. I swapped coils and the miss stays with Cyl # 8. I pulled the injector, and can't see anything wrong.
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Lately I have been working a lot with my cold air intake. One of the vacuum lines keeps popping off. Today I got a check engine light and VSC and VSC off light. Is that due to the tough idle caused by the disconnected vacuum line. I erased the code and so far it has not returned.
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I have recurring P0705 trouble codes. Lexus dealer checked the N/S switch itself and said it's good. I checked all the wiring, found an open, shouted Eureka! Ran a new wire, now all wires test good, but still getting the code. SO - I think I may need to adjust the position of the switch, since the trouble code is for a range malfunction. BUT - I can't find a procedure anywhere.
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SC430 came up with the check engine light, showing a "Oxygen Heater Circuit Malfunction", code P0155 (bank 2, sensor 1). Searching, I found out this is the oxygen sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold.
My car is high mileage (over 130K), it's hard to justify purchasing a $230 sensor and paying for installation. My only goal is to keep the check engine light from turning on and passing state inspection/emission (the check engine light will prevent passing inspection/emission in my state).
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Replaced my post cat drivers side O2 sensor tonight because I was getting zero voltage and a p0430 code. This is bank 2 sensor 1.
But I'm still reading zero voltage!! How could I still be getting zero voltage?? I checked the connections and they are firm. Checked every single fuse in car.
After my recent accident, the center console lights don't illuminate. My nav door doesn't close too. Could these all be related?? The connector for the O2 sensor is right next to the console, so maybe there is a loose connection or plug or perhaps a stray ground?? I do have wires all over the place in under the shifter bezel from aftermarket stuff..
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Replace this when they got a code p0440? If so, which way did you go about replacing? if so, did u have to drop the tank or from cutting from underneath the seat? Is this the same location as from the 1st gen is300?
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I have an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat with almost 200,000. The other day my t-stat started sticking and popping at 220 and then would go back to normal. Now it won't pop and it's puking coolant in the front of the engine. Would just a bad t-stat cause this or do I need to do my water pump as well.
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My Jetta has been throwing this code on and off for over a year now. It used to only come on when it was really cold with wet roads. Now the code will randomly come on in any weather. I usually just clear it but it's coming on to often now. I don't notice any performance issues or gas mileage problems.
Scan shows : Trouble Code - P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I've been reading and apparently 1.8t engines only have One bank? I'm assuming this the the front 02 sensor throwing this but not sure?
I have an aftermarket exhaust/high flow cat. Apparently this can be caused by a high flow after market catalytic converter and one solution is to use a test pipe or spacer to move the rear O2 sensor further from the exhaust gas flow. But I'm not sure this is the issue since I think it's my front sensor throwing the code? That's not by the Cat is it? I just don't want to have the sensor replaced to have the code still come up.
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I have a 2006 Pri with 194,000 miles on it that has been dead reliable & owes me nothing really, now developing a serious problem. Only when it is below about 10 deg F I will get total failure of the power braking system on or shortly after startup Has happened on 3 days this winter. ABS light, Brake warning, continuous high pitched beep (very annoying warning the driver of immanent death!
When this happens I get almost no movement on the brake pedal. It's rock hard & acts pretty much like loosing power brakes on any car (ie. you will eventually stop, but not a safe condition). There is no transition to this condition. It's either "everything normal" or total failure. Brake fluid reads half way between min & max and looks clean, no sign of moisture, but has never been flushed.
The last time it happened I was leaving work, couldn't swap cars... so I drove straight to the dealer (white knuckled). Dealer calls the next day saying it's the Brake Actuator needing replacement. I told them I wasn't spending that & to look again for a cheaper problem like Fluid, 12v battery, Relay...
No dice. They confirm it's the actuator.
The code they read is C1256. They "checked resistance at actuator pins & found high resistance at pins 1&2." I'm thinking about just topping up the fluid a bit more, or getting the fluid flushed & changed, or changing the 12v battery (I need to check voltage on next cold morning), or just not driving it at those temps & hoping it doesn't get worse.
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I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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Where is the Weather map supposed to be?
Just picked up a 2016 Fsport and have been going through all the various menus and I see nothing about weather...
The regular nav screen shows traffic perfectly and has since day one, but no weather or radar map, or even a hint of it, anywhere in any of the menus... I have lot of HD radio stations available and the "HD" with the three cars next to it is lit up just fine on the nav map.
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My wife has a 2010 RX-350 which had to have the transmission replaced a few weeks ago. She has run into an issue when it's cold that the car seems to be stuck in neutral as she applies the gas and it just creeps. This most recent time, the "Check Engine" light came on the message "Check AWD" on the dash. Lexus says they can't find anything wrong except slightly low Transmission Fluid.
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2000 Lexus RX300 - door locks/acutators... the locks open and close perfectly with the master driver actuator lock unlock button or with the the remote IF the temp is 70 degrees or below. If the temp is above 70 degrees the the actuators for all four doors will NOT all lock..1-4 do sometimes....they vary from door to door, day to day , including the driver driver door. Actators are expensive. Because they do work when cooler it tells me they do work. Why not when warm? what do I need to do? This is my mystery
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