Lexus SC430 :: Instrument Panel Flickered On And Off A Couple Of Times Then Went Out
Feb 26, 2016
I was driving and instrument panel flickered on and off a couple of times then stayed off. Also now battery, about 1 year old, doesn't stay charged. Would it be short in wiring? Or what?
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Factory alarm system.
Sometimes I unlock my car and it beeps a couple times, sometimes it beeps more.
What do the various beeps mean?
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Noticed the lights on instrument panel dimming as you accelerate? I'm talking about the very top of the instrument panel located above the speedometer. I'm driving home from work last night and as I accelerate I notice the blue tint light at the top of the instrument panel dims... let off the accelerator and the light brightens back up... switched the car over to "sport" and give it the gas... light remains constant, no dimming what so ever... switched back to "normal".. give it a little gas and the blue light at the top of the panel dims.... car seems to be running absolutely fine, no issues that I'm aware of... but I've never noticed this before.... and curious as to why it only dims when the car is in " normal ", but not when it's in "sport" mode and the light on the dash is red....
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I finally bought our first Lexus - a slightly used 2007 RX350 (early VIN - manufactured in Feb. 2006). We are hearing some faint crackling/rattling noises from our instrument panel/steering column after applying the brakes with the car idling at a complete stop. It will crackle and rattle for about 15 seconds and then disappear until I apply the brakes again.
We had a 2008 RX350 loaner the other day and I didn't hear this noise.
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I am enamored of the Mercedes SL panorama roof. We all purchased convertibles to let the sun shine in so it seems sad that on those rainy days or snowy days-20 + inches is too much, to not be able to let the light in. Is there any way to add a glass panel to the removable roof? I would even consider putting it longitudinally like the new Nisan Maxima.
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Somewhat frequently my wife's 2003 makes this sound. It sounds like it's coming from behind the instrument cluster. It can last for several minutes. I did a search on the forum but couldn't find anything.
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Unfortunately my car Heater A/C Control Panel LCD is broken, I mean only the screen. I accidentally hit the screen while I was pulling my guitar from the back seat .It shows many black lines that are almost covering the whole LCD!! everything is working fine except nothing can be seen on the screen.
I was told that I must buy the whole panel and it is really costly. I thought maybe I can replace only the screen? Is it possible? Or can I get any other car LCD and fix it into this panel??
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My '03 driver's side door has been opened enough, and unfortunately with force when it catches a wind gust or opens downhill, etc, that it's actually resulted in a lengthening crack in the middle of the inside door panel. There are two hinges that are fine, which actually keep the door attached to the car frame.
In between, on the higher side of the inside of the door, there's a 'stopper' bolted to the door, with a bracket 'inside' the door. That's where the force of the door opening is applied to the door itself, and where the crack has appeared. It's already a good 4-6 inches long, and presumably will keep going.
In my head, the options seem to be:
-wait for the stopper to fully rip a piece of the door off, at which point the door will open all the way into the car itself.
-attempt a small scale weld 'in place' with a small overlay strip across the crack.
-pull the door all the way apart to where the welder felt more comfortable doing a solid repair job.
-find a replacement door altogether.
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I have a o3 sc430 that's driving me crazy I have replaced the 02 sensor on my car three times and the cars vsc and check engine light comes back on after driving less then a mile. If I really step on the gas it'll come on faster. Where should I look for a vacuum leak? The mechanic says it could be electrical problems too...
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Ok so about a month ago I went to the store got into my car turned on my car after a couple seconds it beeped about 3 times then turned off i turned it back on and it worked fine ... and now yesterday i was driving the car everything was fine till i was driving on the freeway and it beeped 3 times again and looked like it was going to turn off but didn't .... and about a half hour later driving doing about 45 mph the car beeps and turned off on me ... So I pulled over and just turned the car on and it worked fine again ...
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My car has 16k miles and I've had to add coolant a couple of times. Is this normal? I've never had to add coolant on other cars.
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I have a 2000 passat wagon 1.8t and recently my oil pressure light comes on after engine temp. reaches about 175degrees... but it only comes on when I am running below 1650rpm's it will come on and beep and flash a couple times then go away what could cause this... oil pump? worn camshaft?
It does leak oil from somewhere on the bottom half of the block but its a very very very small leak and its had that since i got the car about 3 years ago. The car has 193,xxx miles on it now and I've also noticed i have cracked and broken oil breather hose? ... that starts from underneath the intake manifold...
Y+This hose goes from the engine block to the back of the engine then forward to the other side of the engine to my air filter... I've removed this hose and it is infact broken and dry rotted into about 4 pieces but I don't even know what the hell it is it also looks like i'll have to remove the intake manifold to put this hose back on and on the engine block!!
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I just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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Today I got the engine light blink a couple of times and then steady on. Parked the car, waited a few minutes, start again just the engine light on (not blinking anymore).
I scanned the car and got this
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 06 August 2013, 13:48:09:11637
Chassis Type: 3D - B5 VW Phaeton
Scan: 01,02,03,05,06,07,08,09,11,15,16,17,18,19,23,27,34 ,35,36,37,38,42,46,48,49,52,55,56,57,61,62,65,68,6 9,72,76,77
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Controller: 07C 906 018 C
[Code] .....
I have a hard time believing that all coil packs went bad. My wife told me that when she was driving the car she could hear a clicking noise coming from the trunk so I think this could the fuel pump not giving enough fuel but I was hoping to get an error for it.
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I have a 1997 LeSabre with 180000 miles. I can drive the car for 4-5 miles before it stalls and then dies. the car will start to idle fast, then bottom out a couple of times before it dies. It also makes a horrible noise under the hood and sounds like the rods are all clanging together. Once it dies, it will not restart until it has sat there for 30-40 minutes. After sitting for some time, it will crank right up and then repeat the process again. My oil pressure is off the chart high and it stays there all the time. Does this have something to do with the problem of is that another problem all together? What is causing my car to die like this and how do i fix it?
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I replaced the speed sensor in the differential yesterday, but it didn't make a lick of difference. I've been having intermittent problems with the speedo ever since I bought the truck. When the speedo starts acting up, the truck will sometimes momentarily cut out and buck a couple of times. It was first mentioned this post, post # 35. I had the truck in the shop for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fittings, and when I got it back it ran worse than before as detailed here in post #1. It turned out I had a torn IPR screen.
I replaced that and it cleared up all of the problems I had except for the speedo problem I originally had. The truck actually ran perfectly on the way home from work yesterday, about 20 miles. No speedo problems and no cutting out. This is not unusual, as the problem is only intermittent. I put the new VSS in last night but did not drive it until this morning. This morning, same thing again, speedo swinging crazily. When cruising about 70 it the speedo would suddenly jump up to about 90 and that is when the truck would cut out and buck a couple of time. The VSS is a Dorman product and proudly displays "MADE IN CHINA".
Should I try a better quality sensor? Rock Auto sells an Airtex/Wells sensor that seems to be of good quality, but I can't determine where it was manufactured. The only reason I bought the Dorman is because I could get it next day from Amazon. Should I be looking at another source for the problem? This is very discouraging because this one thing is what is keeping the truck from being mechanically sound, and I'm trying to get it ready to tow an RV this summer.
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I have a 77 Celica GT Liftback. The instrument panel bulbs are very dim, even with the dimmer turned all the way up. I replaced the clock bulb to see if it made a difference but it didn't.
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The small monitor between tac. and speedo. Everything is displayed except it is very dim.. How to correct this?
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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My instrument cluster panel went out. I bought one on ebay and I would like to replace it myself. Is there a step by step video or a diagram that will show me how to take the dashboard off?
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