Lexus SC430 :: Getting Stuck On Slightest Bumps
Jan 1, 2016
So, we've had our first "big" storm of the year. I say that with quotes because it was only an inch or two and some pretty serious ice.
I got the SC430 out of the driveway with a little bit of effort, but had a heck of a time trying to get it back up the driveway. It was getting stuck on the slightest bumps. As you can probably imagine, Michigan gets feet of snow, not just inches. I'm afraid if it gets stuck this easily, I won't be able to keep driving it this winter.
I'm going to try putting some sand bags in the trunk as it is my main car. But if that doesn't work, I am going to have to put her away for the winter and start driving my crappy 6-cyl 2.7L Hyundai for the winter (front wheel drive).
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Looks like my struts and springs are getting old that they're making squeaky noises over the bumps. Had a shop checked to make sure and they suggested replacing them. I've been wanting to do air ride but not a lot of good shops in town have done that before. So far by searching, most complete kits run around $4k or so without installation. Is that about right? How complicate is it to do the installation?
My second option was to purchase coilovers and put them in myself. Cheap and easy. But again, there are 4-5 brands out there? Megan, D2, BC, K-Sport, etc? I want it mildly lowered and not too bouncy. What spring rates should I get?
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Two fixes: When raising the roof, stop it halfway. It reveals a round rubber bump stop that sits against the rear parcel shelf. The bumpstop can be adjusted by rotating it. If you raise the bump stop, it sits harder against the parcel shelf and reduces movement, thereby reducing noises. Also, lubricate all roof and boot (trunk) rubbers with glycerine (glycerol).
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I have a 2002 sc430 with 65,000 miles. It seems to be riding rougher than usual and noisy over bumps.
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I have a 430sc 2002. I have been noticing lately that it seems to be loose on bumps on the road in town. On the highway it is still very smooth. I was thinking about taking it to a alignment shop and having the bushings checked. Is there anything else I should get checked?
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I love my SC430, and want to keep it another ten years! BUT... I reclined the passenger seat this weekend, and now it won't go back up. Using the release lever, I can pull it up, but if you sit there or put any pressure on it, it falls right back down again to full reclining position.
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I just bought a 2002 SC430, 62,000 miles, silver/saddle near perfect condition on owner, all records for $17,000. The radio door is stuck open and won't close. How to fix it? [/COLOR] Also the radio antenna will not go all the way down - about five inches stays up. Are the two problems related. Like others mentioned, I could eat off of the engine and the trunk still smells like a new car.
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Tried to close the top and it stuck. The deck lid is up, top is half- way unfolded, package tray is in up position. The motor acts like it is binding with ever so slight movement when I push the button to raise or lower. The red light on the dash switch is lit (red).
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I have a 03 sc430 will a stuck climate control. I can change the temp on the passenger side, but the drivers side is stuck on 65! and its cold here!!!!
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One of many issues I need to fix - headlight washer fluid cover seems to be stuck open. i applied moderate force to push it back in, but it did not move, and i do not want to risk breaking it.
I'm thinking some wiring isn't right, maybe connectors never got reconnected.. the auto adjusting headlights don't work either, and the washer fluid line from the firewall that runs to the washer fluid tank was hastily crimped on due to the plastic hose fitting being most likely broken off or lost. Does the bumper need to come off to mess with it? guessing yes.
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In the last two weeks I keep getting a squeaki-ish ratter from the back whenever I hit even the slightest bump.
Dealer will look into it next week? I think it has to do with the rear seats.
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Lots of squeaking coming from the seat in the past few days. No one sitting in it, no massage or heating/cooling active. Squeaks when I go over the slightest bump or rattle the seat.
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My front suspension squeaks very loudly when going over even the slightest of bumps. I've looked at similar threads and have noticed some people replace the entire control arm, some just replace control arm bushings, others change the strut mounts/bearings.
Am I better off replacing all 3 components (control arms, bushings, and strut mounts/bearings) or just doing CA bushings and/or strut mounts? Do control arms normally need to be replaced? Car has 90K miles, and is daily driven year around during the cold Minnesota winter. My knowledge of suspension components is limited.
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A quick question, currently an observation.. but a concern. we purchased our 2012v used at 55k miles.. She's running great, MPG's are above rated expectations. (ave 47.2 so far) We are currently @ ~59400 miles.. So, all seems OK w/the exception of this strange noise.. I'm familiar with the typical prox pulse sound at low EV speeds.. and this noise is not that one.
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The last few days, when I would start my 1990 Acura Integra (morning or afternoon after sitting at work), it had just the slightest hesitation before the engine would start or "turn over", if that is the correct term.
Sometimes I just thought I did not have the clutch engaged the whole way and did not worry. This morning I went to start it and it hesitated again, but now won't start at all..makes the clicking starter sound after a second attempt, but nothing else. NO lights were left on!
The Battery (Duralast Gold 8 year battery) was replaced in Feb 2011, the Distributor in August 2011 and the Distributor in 2007. Could it be the latter?
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I've had light steering issues at speeds above 60 MPH on smooth roads where my Civic FWD 1999 ( 230K miles) feels darty, dangerous and unpredictable when I put in the slightest steering corrections to keep my car going straight. One possible cause, i assumed, could be my front alignment. I'm lowered on lowering springs but never had this darty feeling before.
Inner tie rod boots have been torn for awhile but there is no play left right top bottom with each wheel so I assume they're still fine. Rack could also be worn out. It's been 7 years since my last alignment.
First, I measured my front toe using the string method. Aligned the string to the rear wheel front and rear to keep it parallel, inches away then measured the front. These are the readings from the left and right tire.
Left tire/Front- 9" 3/8
Left tire/Rear - 9" 5/8
Right tire/Front 10" 1/4
Right tire/Rear 10" 3/16
Difference b/w L and R = +5/16th inch toe out.
To confirm, I used another method by choosing a tread line on my left and right tire that are identical and using a 2x4 to keep my tape level measure and taking a reading on each tire.
Distance b/w L and R in front= 62" 1/4
Distance b/w L and R in rear = 62"
1/4th inch toe out in front
So I know I have slightly toe out by a little over a 1/4th inch. Could this cause darty and light steering? And why is my left front farther away from the center of my car then the right front (using the first method above?)
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So I just completed my hydroboost install and fixed exhaust manifolds. After this install the below problem started.
ISSUE: While going slow and straight no problems. Slightest bit of turning effort left or right makes a sound like a tire rubbing on leaf springs. I can also feel the vibration. It happens in drive while moving or in neutral while moving. Happens wither hubs in auto or locked. Happens in 2wd or 4wd. It's not the steering pump cause it wines a tad now when brakes applied and I turn steering wheel. So I know what that sounds like. Expected that.
Jacked it up and checked for any movement in steering or ball joints and found nothing.
X does not make the sound above 15 mph. It's annoying....sounds and feels exactly like tire lugs hitting the leaf springs but they are not.
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So I lowered my car sometime last year and ever since then when i make a right turn above 20mph it caused my car to shake pretty violently. i figured it might have been my Left outer cv joint so I changed the axle, solved my problem temporarily but didn't really make it any better. Recently its gotten way worse and now shakes on any sort of acceleration, and at the slightest turn of the wheel towards the right side. If I left off the gas, put it in neutral, engage the clutch, or turn the wheel to the left it goes away. Could this be the right side inner CV joint or something else? Car shakes under acceleration or right turns, is it my axle?
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Figuring out automatic shifter problem, the car only has 56k miles & it has problem (since 30k miles) shifting out of Park or stuck in Park, often I had to use the mechanical override to release it so I can put it in Neutral to start the engine. When placed in Drive, it kind of "floats," does not have the normal confident in-the-gear feel & sometimes it slips out of Drive to Neutral with the slightest bump of the gear shifter when driving or when stopped. When I shift, it does not have a free easy movement, it feels like the cable is restricted by corrosion or dirt, but everything looked good & seem shielded. Took it to a shop & they suggested that I just drive it... I've since put over 20k miles & its getting worse at finding Neutral to start the car with.
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2014 F250 6.2. I turn traction control off while plowing or any winter driving. With it off I can spin rear tires,but as soon as there is the slightest turn in the front wheels its like something takes over. Lose of power and sounds like anti lock brakes kick in. Is this normal. I like to throw in 2wd and spin around while plowing. Also the kid in me has never left and I like to drift in turns. It takes all the fun out of winter driving.
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I have a 2009 f250 with 70,000 miles on it and for the last 6 months I have been experiencing some power loss. It happens every time there is the slightest incline on the road, it has to down shift to 3rd gear just to maintain that speed. If I don't push on the pedal until it down shifts to 3rd I slow down to 40mph no matter what the speed was before I hit the incline/hill. I also went from 14 mpg to 10.5mpg. I have heard so many theories and am curious if the fact I upgraded to 35 inch tires and never updated the trucks computer.
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