I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
View 10 RepliesI own a 2003 SC 430 w / 133K miles. It has been serviced regularly since purchased. While driving in rain , only the engine may suddenly growl and shake. No check engine light or other warning lights illuminate. When I pull over and restart the engine , it runs fine again. There are never any such problems when driving in dry weather conditions. What the issue might be?
View 4 Replies2002 SC430 with 50k miles. I have a set of aftermarket Dolce rims that are 18" with the stock size tires. I have the eccentric spacers on them as well. They have been mounted and balanced. I also have a set of Dunlop snow tires on my stock rims. Obviously I do a seasonal change over.
With either set of tires I am getting a steering wheel shake at 60-65 mph. By 80mph its gone and the car glides perfectly. There is no pulsation in the brake pedal and there is minimal wear on the pads. Below 60mph there is no issues as well.
Tires are wearing evenly. Some roads will make the movement worse, but it always goes away at around 80 mph.
Now both sets of tires were mounted and balanced by the same shop. I assume that could be it...there machine is faulty. But I would like some other possibilities before I try somewhere else.
i have a 03sc430 with 144,000 on the clock and the rear of the car shakes around 60-70 mph ive had all tires road forced balanced nothing wrong with tires rides fine until i get to 60 mph i heard a click noise once when the car was parked in a driveway on an angle.
View 14 RepliesNoticed a slight vibration from my engine at idle. Nothing too overbearing but just had a concern. How much should I expect if the engine mounts need replacement? Parts? Labor?
View 11 RepliesMy '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
View 12 RepliesSo I went on a little trip about 500 km away.. when i got there everything was normal.. next day while hanging with my buddies my Engine light, VSC and VSC OFF light came on.. I wasn't pushing the car or anything, driving normal and going around 120 to 135 kph on hwy there. Usually people would panic but in the past I have had cars that got these lights and usually its just a sensor.
I mean the car drives perfectly normal, i have driven it 900 km after the light, the temperature doesn't rise, there is no leaks anywhere, there is no smell, engine oil is all there, everything seems perfectly fine. I read a few threads referring to the oxygen sensor? I am thinking of getting that replaced.. how many are there that I would have to change? Also someone mentioned ABS sensor in another thread.. not sure what that has to do with the engine, i mean ABS has its own light right?
My check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
View 14 RepliesAbout month ago, the CHECK ENGINE, VSC, and VSC OFF lights came on in the dash of my '03 SC430 (~175k miles). Took it to the dealer and they read the codes; indicating a bad O2 sensor. They replaced it, and the lights went off. A few days later, the lights came back on. The lights remained ON until this past weekend.
On Sunday, i went to start the car in the morning and the thing wouldn't turn over. Turns out the battery was dead. The label indicated it was 5yrs old. So i bought a new battery. After installation, i noticed the error lights were no longer illuminated on the dash, but just figured it was due to the fact that the battery was disconnected during installation. But after driving it extensively since then, the lights have remained off.
Something else i've noticed since installing the new battery is the lack of the "rotten egg" smell from the exhaust. Before the change, i noticed a significant decrease in acceleration and the emissions smelled very bad. But for the past few days, i've noticed a dramatic increase in power and cleaner smelling emissions. Not sure if they're related...
Could the check engine lights have been the result of my battery dying? I'm not sure why they haven't come back on since the battery replacement. Nor a reason why i'm noticing improved performance and better smelling emissions.
I have a o3 sc430 that's driving me crazy I have replaced the 02 sensor on my car three times and the cars vsc and check engine light comes back on after driving less then a mile. If I really step on the gas it'll come on faster. Where should I look for a vacuum leak? The mechanic says it could be electrical problems too...
View 14 Replies4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 RepliesHere's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
When starting your SC on let's say a day where the temperature is 35 - 55 degrees, what is your initial idle RPM?
Next, how long does it take to settle down to a lower RPM and what is lower RPM when the car is still in Park?
Lastly, can tapping the gas pedal after initial start-up bring the idle RPM down while the car is in Park?
Idle is good in gear without load but if i turn on the AC or the headlamps the idle speed increases slightly but is not as smooth ...very weird...
View 7 RepliesI have done hours of searching about the rough idle on the SC430. What I haven't been able to find is any information about an intermittent rough idle. I have cleaned my MAF sensor twice.
I am having my mechanic replace the radiator tomorrow because of a leak and he is also replacing the idler pulley and the belt tensioner (one of them is making a noise and I purchased an extended warranty!) At the same time he will be doing a throttle body cleaning. I had my timing belt replaced as well as the water pump and had my mechanic check all the spark plugs and all were fine.
I am going to have him check the motor mounts as well. The RPM's are fine with the AC on or off and I have used Lucas fuel treatment on this current tank of gas without any results and my next tank I will try Seafoam as suggested by my mechanic.
I took my car to a mechanic the other day to get the spark plugs change. Then I notice when I turn my car on my seats starts to vibrate when in idle. Is this normal cuz the mechanic says this is normal and that every car vibrates just a little. I read some where it could be the mounts but someone on here told me they not because it doesn't shake my seats just vibrates if I seat there I can feel the seats vibrating on and off its not crazy bad vibrate. It's a minor vibration. I was hoping for no vibration what so ever like sitting in on my leather couch in my living room. Mine is a old model 2002.
View 3 RepliesI hope I didn't just happen to notice this today if it has been going on for any length of time now. I started up our '05 this morning and she's definitely whirring at idle. I do not recall hearing this sound at all recently and we've been on a couple lengthy trips with it. Fluid levels all appear normal.
Had my wife start it up too and she agreed that the whirring was not there previously. What are the most likely candidates into which I should look first? It' not high pitched, but a steady muted whir of the type I might expect to hear when two gears spin while making contact.
I got my oil changed today and thought everything (10 am) was fine with my car. I drove it straight home after the oil change. About 4pm I drove it to work and no problems still. Finally tonight on my way home right as I turned on to my street the car at first seem to hesitate. Slow a bit and I pushed the accelerator. Then suddenly as I pulled in my drive way the engine began to shake as though I was about to stall and the check Engine light came on as well as the big red triangle.
This has happened before. The display being lit up like a christmas tree so but this time the engine shook. I turned the car off, check the oil, which is full and the coolant which is full. The engine has not shook yet ( but I wont leave the car on for a long time to see if it happens again) the Red Triangle has turned off and now only the check engine light remains.
I am going to call Firestone, that is where I got the oil change all I know is that they did a routine check up (unauthorized by me) and told me I needed a new water pump drive belt and tires and a air filter..... So I am hoping they didn't touch something by mistake. I told the man that I would much rather have that done by the dealership.