My engine coolant is low, so I just picked some up from toyota to top it off. The bottle says to see the owner's manual for the proper ratio. I don't have mine handy. The best I could find was this PDF posted by Bob. But it doesn't have the ratio. What it should be?
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Just wondering if there's been any incident where the coolant in the SC430 is leaked into the gearbox at the radiator. I mean, these cars do have the transmission fluid running through the radiator, right? I've read that this occurs a lot on LS430 and many Mercedes models.
Would it be a good preventive measure to replace the radiator anyway? Or, is it ok to wait till there're signs of such leakage (if it doesn't usually begin as a major leak)?
What is the location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor? I search but I couldn't find a picture or diagram for our car.
View 2 RepliesEver see the round plug on top of the throttle body pop out and leak coolant?
View 1 RepliesCheck engine light with code 0125. This code indicates low coolant temp for closed loop fuel control. Well I have changed the thermostat, engine temp sensor and new coolant. After driving approx. 5 miles the light came on again.
View 5 RepliesWhat is the proper way to rotate the tires on the GX and how frequent should be done?
View 14 RepliesWhen shifting from reverse to park or drive, the mirror tilts back up but not in the position it was prior. It is actually quite irritating because I would start driving and have to adjust the mirrors back to the desired setting. I've also just sat there and shifted from park -> reverse -> park and recalled the memory setting and I will see it make the adjustments.
View 8 RepliesHere is an image of how to properly remove the engine cover.
View 4 RepliesSo I went on a little trip about 500 km away.. when i got there everything was normal.. next day while hanging with my buddies my Engine light, VSC and VSC OFF light came on.. I wasn't pushing the car or anything, driving normal and going around 120 to 135 kph on hwy there. Usually people would panic but in the past I have had cars that got these lights and usually its just a sensor.
I mean the car drives perfectly normal, i have driven it 900 km after the light, the temperature doesn't rise, there is no leaks anywhere, there is no smell, engine oil is all there, everything seems perfectly fine. I read a few threads referring to the oxygen sensor? I am thinking of getting that replaced.. how many are there that I would have to change? Also someone mentioned ABS sensor in another thread.. not sure what that has to do with the engine, i mean ABS has its own light right?
Alternator on my 2006 GX failed, caused battery to discharge and vehicle stopped. Alternator was replaced, battery (was new) is testing fine. All electronics and indicator lights normal except Nav system. Display reads insert proper disc. I have ejected and reloaded disc multiple times, no change. Disc is OEM, one release back.
View 14 RepliesNoticed a slight vibration from my engine at idle. Nothing too overbearing but just had a concern. How much should I expect if the engine mounts need replacement? Parts? Labor?
View 11 RepliesMy check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
View 10 RepliesWhen I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
View 14 RepliesI got 2002 SC430 with 59,000 Miles, all of the sudden my car doesn't have any acceleration at all. When I press gas paddle it doesn't do anything, but engine stay on. I couldn't get any error codes since I changed batteries to make sure if it wasn't the battery..
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 Ranger 2.3 standard shift, No A/C, a pretty simple Ranger with 158,000 miles. About a month ago while do some checking around under the hood I noticed my coolant overflow tank was empty, so I filled it up to the proper level with some anti-freeze mixture. Thinking if the system was low on anti-freeze it would suck what it needed from the recovery tank, wrong! About two weeks ago I noticed that my temperature gauge was NOT registering in its normal position and was considerably lower towards the Cold mark. Heat coming out of the heater was normal.
I opened the radiator cap and everything looked okay. After a few days this would not go away and replaced the thermostat thinking the thermostat was stuck in the open position, wrong again! I burped the system by letting the engine run with the radiator cap off and filled the radiator with anti-freeze mixture every time some of the air was expelled. I did this for a few days and noticed that the engine would not reach normal operating temperature at idle speed! I had to put something on the gas pedal to increase idle speed so the engine would get hot, this is not normal. Finally I got to a point where the radiator would not take anymore anti-freeze mixture, but the problem still exists.
Two things I noticed that will get the engine temperature up to normal, engine speed (RPM's) and not having the heater on. Let me explain, at normal idle the engine will not reach its proper temperature, but when driving down the highway the temperature goes up to normal (about halfway on the scale) no matter if the heat is on or not. When stopped at a light or just idling I can watch the gauge slowly go down towards the cold mark, if I turn off the heater it takes longer to go down to cold. I do know the heater fan is cooling the coolant to a degree (no pun intended), but it shouldn't cool it so much as to make the temperature drop so dramatically. Okay, heater off, riding down the highway, everything normal, come to a stop and idle temperature starts falling slowly, but when I turn on the heater the temperature starts falling faster.
My diagnosis: I have no leaks of anti-freeze, checked and re-checked. I have no symptoms of a blown head gasket, no milky white appearance on dip stick indicating anti-freeze mixing with engine oil, no clouds of white smoke coming out of exhaust, checked tail pipe for anti-freeze, none found, no loss of power and no loss of gas mileage. I changed the thermostat, like I said. Do not think it could be the radiator pressure cap, normally if the cap goes bad the system will have no pressure and the engine will overheat, the opposite of the problem. Water pump, normally if the water pumps goes the coolant will not circulate through engine and will over heat, again, not the problem I am having. Could it be:
1. A long shot, I bought a defective thermostat and it is still staying open.
2. The temperature sending unit has gone bad, very improbable since it does register the correct temperature when truck is moving down the highway.
3. The coolant is spent, again unlikely, it has been in the engine only for about 3 years and still looks clean and green.
4. Have to have a cylinder pressure check to determine actually if the head gasket is really blown or not, which I doubt.
My conclusion is that I still have a huge air lock somewhere in the system and the engine is still not completely filled with coolant and when the rpm's drop not enough hot coolant is reaching the temperature gauge sending unit, but if that much coolant is not in the system, why am I still getting lots of heat blowing from the heater? The vehicles cooling system is not that complicated and there are few parts involved in its proper operation, I think I have covered them all, but somewhere I am missing something to pin point my problem.
About month ago, the CHECK ENGINE, VSC, and VSC OFF lights came on in the dash of my '03 SC430 (~175k miles). Took it to the dealer and they read the codes; indicating a bad O2 sensor. They replaced it, and the lights went off. A few days later, the lights came back on. The lights remained ON until this past weekend.
On Sunday, i went to start the car in the morning and the thing wouldn't turn over. Turns out the battery was dead. The label indicated it was 5yrs old. So i bought a new battery. After installation, i noticed the error lights were no longer illuminated on the dash, but just figured it was due to the fact that the battery was disconnected during installation. But after driving it extensively since then, the lights have remained off.
Something else i've noticed since installing the new battery is the lack of the "rotten egg" smell from the exhaust. Before the change, i noticed a significant decrease in acceleration and the emissions smelled very bad. But for the past few days, i've noticed a dramatic increase in power and cleaner smelling emissions. Not sure if they're related...
Could the check engine lights have been the result of my battery dying? I'm not sure why they haven't come back on since the battery replacement. Nor a reason why i'm noticing improved performance and better smelling emissions.
Started up the SC 430 (2002) and a clicking noise is coming from the engine. After engine is warmed up noise settles down. Have 71212 miles
View 10 RepliesMy '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
View 12 RepliesI own a 2003 SC 430 w / 133K miles. It has been serviced regularly since purchased. While driving in rain , only the engine may suddenly growl and shake. No check engine light or other warning lights illuminate. When I pull over and restart the engine , it runs fine again. There are never any such problems when driving in dry weather conditions. What the issue might be?
View 4 RepliesOver the last few months I was having a problem with my 2002 SC430 with 130,000 miles having random hiccups and engine hitches during acceleration and even at random times while on the highway or around town. My average 10 minute trip around town would have at least 10 hiccups, all random and during no specific style of driving. No one wants a stuttering engine!
After reading some of the threads here there were several options...
1. Do a system reset by using only the key turned on and pressing on the gas pedal for thirty seconds. While optimistic, this didn't solve the problem...
2. Many threads suggested that it may be my TPS (throttle position sensor) so I started shopping around for a sensor to install myself. They run for about $75 online and are a pretty easy install..but I wanted an official opinion so I went into my local lexus dealership to ask them if this was the best course of action...
The solution: Apparently, the 430 engine is a notorious carbon producing engine so, as my local lexus mechanic explained, this carbon can build up in the throttle body, affecting how the mass air flow sensor (MAFS) is read. My mechanic recommended having a FUEL INJECTION SERVICE. This service cleans the fuel deposits in fuel injectors and carbon build-up in cylinder heads and in the throttle body plating.