I have recurring P0705 trouble codes. Lexus dealer checked the N/S switch itself and said it's good. I checked all the wiring, found an open, shouted Eureka! Ran a new wire, now all wires test good, but still getting the code. SO - I think I may need to adjust the position of the switch, since the trouble code is for a range malfunction. BUT - I can't find a procedure anywhere.
View 3 RepliesI have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
View 5 RepliesI can't seem to find the location of the neutral safety switch on my 2005 accent 5 speed manual. I removed the air filter box and looked all around the top, bottom, and sides of the tranny. I have the new part so I do know what it looks like.
View 6 RepliesDaughters explorer sport trac, needed a neutral safety switch and a fuse ( no reverse lights),, I have replaced both but now the shifter doesn't line up right.
P is now reverse, and cant get all the way over to 1 with out holding it...
the two marks in the switch line up for neutral.... and switch is keyed to shaft...
how do i now re align this so shift indicator and transmission are on the same page again??
I am guessing move tranny arm all the way to the rear of the truck position and put shifter in P....then put cable back on arm.... but doesn't seem to work ....
I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
1989 F250, C6
Random starting problems. Starter relay did not fix it.
I have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
View 7 RepliesDoes coasting in neutral (to save fuel) cause any damage or wear when shifting the gear lever into Drive while moving?
View 6 Repliesi was trying to align my headlights last night and forgot to switch them off. now the battery is dead and i need to shift it to neutral to roll it out of the garage and jump it. but it won't shift. the dealer said to turn it to on and step on the brake. doesn't work. i just get a buzzing sound coming from the engine compartment. is there any way to shift it? or do i just need to take the battery out and get it charged?
View 9 RepliesMy 2002 SC430 didn't start this evening.
The engine turns over as normal, I can smell the unburnt fuel out the exhaust. I can hear the fuel pump working etc. It gives a slight cough upon first turn of the key but will not come near firing up properly. The engine turns over at speed from the starter but without any further signs of ignition.
The car's key is unlocking the car with the remote on the key as normal so I don't think it's an immobiliser issue. The battery is fully charged and turned the engine over for about 5 minutes in total during the hour I tried to start her in so there is no battery voltage problem.
A strong side issue is that the heater fan started to switch on and off by itself yesterday, and this morning stopped altogether on the drive home. Another thing is that the heater fan briefly turns for one tenth of a second of so when switching the car off, even when selected to off on the climate control screen.
I disconnected the battery, pulled out the ECU to check for visible problems on the connectors like corrosion, damp etc but found none. The earth straps in the engine area all seem good, all fuses seem good too. I've pulled and re-installed all the visible engine bay fuses, but nothing improved. No big fuses are blown that I can see. The cars remains a non-starter and the heater fan still won't operate as normal.
Lastly, the boot / trunk area seems to be quite damp so I let it open for a while to dry out tonight.
I need to replace the safety switch on my 1995 S10 w/ a 5 speed manual tranny. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Looking at the new one, I would guess that it MAYBE fits in sort of like the holes on a wall hanger. You know, sort of a pear shaped hole that a screw or something fits into and slides down to make it stay. Am I right? And if so, how hard is it to get out/replace? I don't really want to destroy the old one, but that is looking more and more like how it's going to happen.
View 17 RepliesI just tried to lower my passenger window, and it was completely dead. Driver's side works fine. Tried both the switch on driver's side and passenger side. Neither worked to lower passenger window.
Popped the hood and swapped out Pass & Driver's fuses. Pass side fuse is ok - ran the Driver's side ok.
Dropped the top and both windows ran down and back up ok. I'm guessing connection in driver's door(?). Maybe that switch for passenger window is bad?
So i haven't used my top for awhile because it's been really hot in texas. I tried it for the first time today and I can't even get the open close switch to blink red? I did a ecu reset by unplugging the battery for 30 minutes nothing. I check the fuses in the trunk and they were all good. I did install the VIas awhile back but I don't think it could be the temp control? I'm assuming if it wasn't plugged in all the way the AC and other functions would not work.
View 14 RepliesI am trying to remove the front seat warmer switch. Been trying but no luck.
View 3 RepliesI have dismantled my trunk completely in order to install rear upgraded lights, as well as to install a new bumper to my kit. I have not put back the interior of the trunk yet. I went to let the top down so I could begin to remove the rear seat to do the mod to the subwoofer that a fellow forum member recommended and provided an instructional. But the top will not come down.
I was able to raise the top and the windows. But when I push the button to lower the top the red light to the switch blinks but nothing happens. My question, do I have to reassemble tyne trunk in order to lower the top. If that is the case how is everyone doing the woofer and amp work with the top lowered.
What I really want to do is lower the top partially so I can remove the rear sear set (top) so I can get to my subwoofer. Or maybe the seat can come out without lowering the top.
What could be the cause of this? Have replaced the park/neutral safety switch and the Toyota Mechanic found loose wires on the Master Plug-In and repaired the Ignitor Connector. The computer generates no code to identify a problem. Problem still not fixed. I eventually get it to start but do not know why. Fuel pump replaced a couple of years ago.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford ranger and I believe my Clutch safety starting switch is going out. Some times I push my clutch in and truck starts fine other times it will not turn over so I stomp clutch and then it starts. My question is, is there any way to bypass this switch?
View 5 RepliesI have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
View 4 Replies2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?