Replace this when they got a code p0440? If so, which way did you go about replacing? if so, did u have to drop the tank or from cutting from underneath the seat? Is this the same location as from the 1st gen is300?
View 12 RepliesHow to replace valve cover gaskets on 2002 430sc???
View 14 RepliesJust read that a clogged EGR valve is common and reduced performance and increases emissions. Need to clean this valve? Where is it located?? Just noticed tonight that there is not a lot of suction from my vacuum lines and I wondered if this is related. Plus I have a p0430.
View 3 RepliesI have a 130K+ 2002 SC430 in which I recently started to smell gas in the cabin when air vents were set to pull air from outside. Within two weeks, I got the check engine light with two codes, P0440 and P0446, which mean "Evap Emission Control System Malfunction".
In doing some research the check light light could be everything from a gas cap which is not tighened properly, to a bad "charcoal canister " (whatever exactly that is), to a cracked or disconnected "Evap Hose". The only other SC430 related thread I could find on this topic is [URL] ....
If it factors in, I only use 93 octane gas. Interestingly enough, the check engine light came on within 30 seconds of me using the window washer to clean the windshield (at highway speeds), likely a coincidence.
So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
It just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
Check engine light was on for some time when I had filler neck and cap replaced. Computer sensors did not re-set until 501 mile mark, when light came on again. Checking the web, I find that some who appear to have knowledge of problem say it could be hoses, sensors, valves, or evap canister--the charcoal canister.
Mechanic who did original smoke test and recommended replacement of filler tube wants to replace evap canister without checking anything else. What should I do? At wits end, and car needed to pass inspection 2 days ago. Car has 157,000 miles or so...
I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
I finally got some time yesterday and put Seafoam into my PCV valve to clean the injectors. I also replaced the PCV valve. My car seems to have more power!
View 9 RepliesSo sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius and the check engine light came on last week. I decided to take it to a highly recommended auto repair shop instead of the dealer. The error cord was P1121 and they replaced some kind of coolant control valve. When I went to take the car home I noticed the check engine light was still on and they said there was another similar but different coolant valve that needed to be replaced. They replaced the other part and everything seemed fine.
View 10 RepliesA couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
View 2 RepliesI had a code for the EGR valve stuck open. I tried cleaning it but it didn't work (and didn't seem that dirty). Then I tried replacing it. Both times the code came back. What should I do now? I reset the code each time by disconnecting the battery.
View 14 RepliesWrecked my 2005 and bought 2006 with 65,000k. Dealer had just changed oil and it is well above last dimple. Dealers have been quoted as saying no harm to engine by overfilling' At first I started out at 51 mpg and after first trip or two it is down to c.47mpg. Will overfill cause loss of fuel...
View 13 RepliesOur 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
Well I have a 2150 carb on my '82 truck, I looked in my parts and illustration guide and found what should be a fairly close overhaul kit for my truck based off it being a non high altitude truck and it has A/C and its a 302 with C6 transmission 2 wheel drive.
Down side is the power valve that came with my kit is a two stage power valve and I currently have a single stage power valve.
If I were to use this two stage power valve where would I buy a replacement two stage power valve cover?
Ive been looking but cant find any anywhere and I am to the point of figuring out what power valve my truck has currently so I don't have to put my only vehicle down for multiple days for a simple carb rebuild.
I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
I was looking for some diagnosing the problem with my car. I've already gone and put one of those autozone scanners on it, and it gave me a very vague idea of what could be wrong. It pulled a P0440 and P0507 code. I go to work and school full time so I don't have the time to be poking around at everyone of those possibilities.
The check engine light came on a few months back, the acceleration has been bad since then, but it just recently started running worse. While accelerating the car jerks horribly, but then will smooth out if I give it more gas or let off a little bit.
What a dilemma, somewhat of a novice, about to rebuild Holley 1850 for 2nd time in past 12yrs and dispite a number of backfires over the years does not appear to have damaged the 'power valve'. Purchased the Hly 125-500 check ball kit, although the installation appears fairly simple, taking a drill to my throttle plate I have some reservation. Any members familiar with the upgrade, considering returning the kit and not risk, thru operator error, ending up replacing carburetor.
View 7 RepliesMy car is in the shop and has a leak at the Power Steering Pump. The rubber O-ring on the Power Steering Pump Solenoid Valve (p/n 4417030120) is leaking fluid. The Solenoid Valve is ok, just the Rubber O-ring is bad, but it looks like you have to buy a complete new Solenoid Valve to get the O-ring (a lotta bucks).
I did find a Lexus Power Steering Pump rebuild kit online at, but I can't see if it includes the solenoid valve o-ring or not. Have to replace their solenoid valve o-ring?