Lexus SC430 :: Click When Turn Key But No Crank
Sep 11, 2013
Turn key
Click
Headlights do not dim at all
No crank
This has happened three times now, about a month to six weeks apart. Eventually it starts exactly like normal. I can't put my finger on exactly what I did between "not crank" and "crank like normal" but it wasn't anything significant, that's for sure.
Tonight I cleaned the battery terminals, but they actually looked very good. Looking back, I should have checked how tight they were before taking the cable off, but I didn't. Not sure whether a loose cable could explain these symptoms.
I was thinking this was starter or solenoid? Any other diagnosis consistent with the symptoms?
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I have had my '02 SC since 2007 and frequently when I turn the key to start, I hear an instantaneous "electronic click" sound. I have ignored it and no service person has ever mentioned it, nor have I requested a Lexus diagnosis.
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I am stationed in Europe at the moment and my wife has been driving my car.
She last drove it a week ago and when she got in to drive last night it would not start - Not even a "click". Interior lights worked, radio etc.
Could be the battery of course with not enough voltage threshold to even engage starter solenoid.
But I was looking for other things she could check before I come back in 3 weeks. I will deal with a battery replacement then if required.
She confirmed car is in "park".
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.
Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.
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My son has a 2001 explorer sport that he keeps at college. The vehicle sits alot more than it runs these days. Recently it some times does not want to start, no click when you turn the key. He got it home today, and after I changed oil, it would not start. I have no ground to the starter relay in the power distribution box.
I have no electrical schematics, where the ground for the starter relay comes from ? If I remove the relay and run jumper wires from the box to the relay, i can make the vehicle crank when i apply another ground source to the relay....but it just cranks, will not start.
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I have a 99 f150 2wd v6 4.2 liter engine. Im going to sum up what happened and what I've done so far. One morning truck wouldnt start. Wouldn't crank, turn over, or even make a click click noise. I tried jumping it just to be sure but it didnt do anything. Battery is fine, interior lamps, displays, and radio all work fine.
I took the starter off, had it tested, it was bad so i got a new one. Still had the same problem. Finally, i got underneath the trunk and bridged the positive and negative on the starter solenoid and it fired right up. So the starter is not the problem.
Next I looked into the starter relay, if I bridged the positive and negative on the starter relay it fires right up just like the starter. But since that is only bypassing the starter relay, it didnt tell me whether the starter relay was good or bad. So I got a new starter relay and it worked! It started with the key with no problem 3 times! I thought the problem was fixed but when i tried to start it an hour later, nothing... Same problem as before.
I checked all my fuses, none were blown.
I'm under the assumption that either something leading to the starter relay is making the starter relay go bad OR there isn't enough power going to the starter relay. Maybe something in the ignition, even though my accessories are all still working.
It is the only vehicle I have to and from work. For now I am getting by with bridging positive and negative on the starter relay to start it but that is only a temporary fix.
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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The battery seems good in key, but I can stand next to car and it will "click" but door wont lock or unlock.
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i have a 03sc430 with 144,000 on the clock and the rear of the car shakes around 60-70 mph ive had all tires road forced balanced nothing wrong with tires rides fine until i get to 60 mph i heard a click noise once when the car was parked in a driveway on an angle.
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My sc400 won't start it make a little click noise when I turn key the lights work but it don't crank how to fix for cheap??
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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I am having problems starting my car. It takes 5 or 6 tries . It will not turn over it will just click under the hood. I scanned the code and it showed the crankshaft sensor code. Would this be correct or could it be the starter or starter components. It is a 2008 LS 460
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Is it possible to turn off antenna when CD is on?
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When start my car and turn on the lights, its on for a few moments and they flicker, and then the driver side turns off. I toggle the switch off and on, and they fire right back up, but few moments later its off again. After about 10 minutes of doing that, they usually stay on, but once I make a quick stop (at store or bank for example) and turn off the headlights, the issue starts again and I usually cant get them to stay on after that unless I park the car for a few hours, and go through the 10 mins of screwing around with them again. Sometimes it will cause the passenger side to turn off as well, or sometimes even both!
I really need to fix this, along with my front parking lights in the bumper and the rear side bumper lights as well. I also have to take care of my license plate lights, which the harness does not even seem to be there behind the left lens, and the right one is missing.
I want to fix them, but if I take apart the fixtures, I want to polish the inside of the lens. and do any other mods at that time. I want to stick with the HID's, but maybe get some different bulbs for the low beam, that funky yellowish light that runs during the day, and the fog lights. I am not going to mess around with the LED's for a while. I had halogens in my last car that I had to update to HID to get good light, and these SC lights are even better since they are auto leveling, and turn with the car for the most part as well.
Does this sound like the bulbs? I heard of people online changing the bulbs and still having this issue. I thought it could be ballasts, but I am a newbie to the HID lighting so I am not sure. There are youtube vids up with this issue on the SC and ES models also I believe, so this is a known problem that pops up for everyone at one point during ownership.
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So everything in my car has no memory issues but my clock always says 1:00 ... when I start the car....
I have tried another control unit (the climate control, nav screen, etc buttons) where the clock is located to see if I had a bad unit and it still did the same thing.
I have a brand new battery from Lexus and everything else in the car seems to be fine....this was an issue before I bought the new battery.
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I have a 2007 and I've just developed my first problem since I purchased the car new in 2007. While driving, my headlight(s) will turn off by themselves.
Sometimes it's the right one, sometimes it's the left one, and sometimes they will both stop working. Turning the headlight switch off and then on brings them back to life.
What part in the headlight system is causing this?
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SC430 with 104k miles on it
Went to start her up today. As I began to turn it over--nearly immediately--I heard what can only be described as a thump followed by whirring. (I'd like to believe the thump was related but cannot be certain). Tried to start again, only very briefly, and all I could hear is that "whirring". It will not turn over and I'm hoping that neither attempt damaged anything.
If I had to guess, I'd say the timing belt snapped immediately as the starter was beginning to turn over the engine. Is there a relatively quick way to diagnosis this without potentially damaging the engine any further? An access port/hole or cover I can see through or remove to determine if the belt is snapped? What else could it be? Starter solenoid failure? That would certainly be easier to diagnose.
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After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
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