Since summer is coming up I decided to change my cabin air filter because the car started to stink especially when its humid outside. I was not so surprise on the condition of the filter!!!
View 14 RepliesA few months my AC starting blowing hot air. When I was at the dealer, they claimed the compressor was bad and wanted over a 1000 to replace. I looked online when I was there and said the new denso compressor was about 300 online. They wanted double. I just left and didn't worry about it since it was about winter then. Now I need to get it fixed.
A guy noticed the other day when I cut the AC button on, the clutch engaged and cut back off. He didn't have time to fully check it that day and wants me to bring back if I can another day.
I did some searching on this board, but haven't seen compressor issues with the SC430. I have a 94 ES300 and a 2004 RX330 and neither have had compressor issues. So I am shocked at this anyway.
I bought a relay, but that did not work. I just read on the LS forum that a lot of people have had problems with the AC pressure switch.
I understand that switch could prevent the compressor from coming on when the switch goes bad. Do we have that switch on the 06 SC430? If so, where is it? I can't find a part number listed in All data. I would love to check it before spending a ton of money on compressor replacement.
By the way, I have plenty of refrigerant. They checked that at the dealer and added some then. And I did AC diagnostics and show no codes.
My 2002 SC430 didn't start this evening.
The engine turns over as normal, I can smell the unburnt fuel out the exhaust. I can hear the fuel pump working etc. It gives a slight cough upon first turn of the key but will not come near firing up properly. The engine turns over at speed from the starter but without any further signs of ignition.
The car's key is unlocking the car with the remote on the key as normal so I don't think it's an immobiliser issue. The battery is fully charged and turned the engine over for about 5 minutes in total during the hour I tried to start her in so there is no battery voltage problem.
A strong side issue is that the heater fan started to switch on and off by itself yesterday, and this morning stopped altogether on the drive home. Another thing is that the heater fan briefly turns for one tenth of a second of so when switching the car off, even when selected to off on the climate control screen.
I disconnected the battery, pulled out the ECU to check for visible problems on the connectors like corrosion, damp etc but found none. The earth straps in the engine area all seem good, all fuses seem good too. I've pulled and re-installed all the visible engine bay fuses, but nothing improved. No big fuses are blown that I can see. The cars remains a non-starter and the heater fan still won't operate as normal.
Lastly, the boot / trunk area seems to be quite damp so I let it open for a while to dry out tonight.
The tachometer needle in my 2002 SC just started sticking. What did you do to resolve it?
View 4 RepliesHad this rig for 6 years, and I love it. Two weeks ago, wife was driving home and she and the kids saw smoke coming out of the dash, along with an electrical stink. Shortly after, she noticed the blinkers not working. While trying to diagnose, I have found that the radio, heated seats, headlights, rear AC, blinkers, front wipers, rear/mirror defrost do not work. On a test drive, the rig also has an odd idle, as if it is going to die, then catches up by revving... repeatedly. Sometimes throttle is unresponsive.
I started by replacing the battery. I cut back battery cables til there was no corrosion and reattached them. All fuses in the cabin and under the hood look good, and none of the relays (yes, I pulled them all) seem to have any damage, melting, etc. My battery to engine and frame grounds are good. I also tried spraying starter fluid around vacuum lines to see if that changed the idle -nope. The only code on the rig has been on for a couple months, both right and left banks lean.
I am not great at tracing down wiring, but I am starting on grounds, then will start on hots.
So I have been trying to get all the issues fixed on this car, and I think I'm getting close. I just gave the car a tune up, minus a new coil pack. (2.0 engine) I've fixed the broken hose on the secondary air pump and all my error codes appear to be gone. However, when I start my car on humid mornings, the car struggles to stay running. Once the car is up to a certain temperature, the car has no problems. But while it is cool and struggling to run, the check engine light will come on and flash. I heard that it could be from a crack in the coil pack that allows moisture to come in. Does that sound right? I would hate to put a new coil pack if I don't need it yet.
View 2 RepliesI have the above mentioned 2005 Sebring Convertible (2.7L V6, Touring) and the AC will work occasionally, but when it is hot and humid, it is sure to blow hot. First up was to check the system pressure and top off if needed - not the problem. Also blew the bugs and junk from the radiator fins. The wires and electrical connections look good at a glance. Turning the car off and on again doesn't work. Why would the darn thing work part time and take days off when we need it most?
View 1 RepliesLooking for a solution to the windshield condensation problem found in humid states. I took my Touareg in for the TSB but it has not worked much.
View 9 RepliesMy daughter bought BIL's jetta and loves it. Already had to replace the seal on the oil cooler which wasn't too bad to do. But now she's out of town with the car and it won't start. Said it did start and run for a bit, long enough to get half way down the driveway and then die. Won't start again for her. Called BIL and he said it had done that to his daughter also during high humidity times. Well we have been foggy all day, guess that counts for high humidity .Could this malady be from condensation under the cap or is it something more sinister?
View 4 Repliesi have a 2002 Honda Civic EX, 155,000 miles. I've been having this problem for quite some time and the mechanic has not been able to figure out what the problem is. He has changed the thermostat, pressure tested the coolant (or something along those lines) but the problem persists. The mechanic also pressure tested the radiator system and said there was no leak. He also told me the tank was overfilled with water, apparently I didn't need to be waiting for the car to cool down so I could add more water, so I've stopped doing that. I have NOT had the scheduled 150,000 maintenance done yet. The mechanic said it wasn't 'urgent' and if I wanted to wait I could. I was hoping to spend the money repairing this problem before doing that, which he said sounded OK to him. The timing belt was replaced in 2007 right before I moved across the country.
I'll try to be succinct, but the explanation is long. Overall: when driving the car to run errands around town the temp gauge used to quickly go all the way to HOT & the A/C starts blowing hot/humid air. When this happened I was pulling over, turning off A/C & radio & putting the car in neutral until the gauge goes back down, used to take only a few minutes but if driving in town (stop lights/traffic) i have to keep doing this b/c the needle returns to the top quickly. I also started trying putting the car in neutral while stopped at lights or in traffic & if i pushed on the gas pedal & kept the engine at 3K RPM the needle would go back down & A/C would start blowing cold when I started driving again.
The other part of this is if i change the A/C vent diverter from all vents blowing at upper body to vents blowing at face & feet or all vents blowing at feet the green 'recycled air' light goes out & the air starts blowing hot & humid, this persists even if I push the 'recycle' air button again.
Until yesterday this temp gauge & A/C issue has not been nearly as much of a problem when driving on the highway at a consistent speed, in other words when the car doesn't have to idle the problem didn't occur very often, the temp gauge may have moved towards 'HOT' but never got all the way up there. Until yesterday. I had to drive thru town with quite a bit of construction & resulting traffic as well as a few stop lights which sent the gauge go to HOT quickly. When I got on the highway I was expecting the gauge to go back down & the A/C to start blowing cold air.... alas, it did not. the gauge stayed very near HOT the whole time & the A/C never blew cold air. It was 106*F yesterday?
And yet another part of this problem, which the mechanics have told me is NOT related to this problem: in the winter time the heater took an extraordinarily long time to heat up and then would only blow warm air while the car was moving at a pretty high speed, under around 30 MPH and there was no heat, and definitely no heat when idling. I do not remember the temp gauge hanging out at HOT all the time but I do think it would go higher than the middle range.
The car has yet to actually overheat. Apparently the mechanic can't diagnose/repair the problem until the engine DOES overheat, at least this is what he has told me. I'm not feeling very confident in this mechanic, as clearly the problem is getting worse over time. And I don't believe it is OK to continue driving a car when the temp gauge is at HOT all the time, that doesn't seem smart at all. Sadly, the mechanic that used to work on my car & was able to diagnose & repair problems quickly & competently has gone to work somewhere else & is no longer working on cars. So, I have decided I cannot continue to use the current mechanic and am now faced with having to take it to the dealership, something I REALLY hate to do. I just don't know of any other reputable Honda repair folks in the area & am tired of being w/o my car for days at a time and still have to deal with the problem.
Why do my door squeak or groan upon opening but only when it's very humid? They are fine in low humidity. How do I fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy S10 V6 with 176,500 miles that won't start when weather is cold and damp or hot and humid. I've checked distributer cap, spark plug wires, ignition module, and replaced crankshaft position sensor because of a high resistance reading on the sensor (14.17 Megaohms). I've never had any fault codes. What else can I check before I decide to junk the truck.
View 2 RepliesLast summer and this summer I have had a hard time starting my car when it is hot and humid out. In the winter or on cooler days it starts right up, but on hot and humid days I have to crank on it for a while before it will fire up. Sometimes it will start up right away on these days but die immediately, then I am stuck sweating my butt off in a hot car while I crank on it to start.
What this might be? The Honda dealer was of no support, they tried to sell me a new starter and battery (it is turning so I know they are not the culprits.) When I finally got someone at the dealer to listen to me, he suggested a fuel relay, a sensor,r something else I can't recall. But in the end he said they would just be changing out all of these until one works, at my expense.
My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
A/c is fully charged. Could be blowing cold one second, and blowing hot humid air the next.
View 5 RepliesI need to replace the ECM in an 02 SC430 my question is.......?
If i get my hands on a used one will I still have to Reflash the ECM or will the car start run and drive plug and play?
New owner of a 2007 and 1st post. My antenna goes all the way up and then one of the sections retreats.
View 8 RepliesThe lexus sc430 is nice but when I floor it , there is a 2-3 second delay until she kicks down and really takes off. Someone said there is actually an adjustment on the transmission to eliminate this delay. Never heard of such a thing.
View 3 RepliesJust bought my sc and the top won't go down,when I press the button nothing happens no blinking lights or noise.if I open the windows and press the close button the Windows go up,but when I press the down button nothing happens.
I have the trunk cover close and I checked all the fuses in the trunk but they all seem fine nothing blown that I can see.i disconnected the battery overnight and still nothing. I also checked in the glove box and the button is pushed in like it is suppose to be.
3.4 2001 GLS.. When it's near freezing out there and humid, the car won't crank, it's not the starter since I can get it going by jumping it.. I'll just leave the car alone, go to work and start it later and it will start just fine for who knows how long..
It did it 2 days ago, I didn't notice any security light on solid or anything else whatsoever but I think I have an electrical intermittent problem that gets worst with humidity or colder humid air.. I've read most topics here but I still can't figure it out so far.. Inspecting the fuse box showed that the positive wire was surrounded by green dust, I've cleaned that.. My horn sounds anemic at times when I use the remote door lock..
Is there a relay dedicated to crank the car, I mean, sending the power to the starter solenoid? I just don't get the relation with that near freezing or freezing temperature thing..
2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
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