Lexus SC430 :: Car Takes 2 Or 3 Tries To Crank On Cold Start
Mar 3, 2015
Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
View 14 RepliesHaving issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
View 14 RepliesMy Lexus Rx350 (2007) having problem starting the car when the engine is cold or switch off more than 1-2 hours. I need to crank the car at least 2-3 times to get the engine run. Once the engine run, i have no problem restarting the car with a single crack.
View 5 Replies2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
View 6 RepliesTurn key
Click
Headlights do not dim at all
No crank
This has happened three times now, about a month to six weeks apart. Eventually it starts exactly like normal. I can't put my finger on exactly what I did between "not crank" and "crank like normal" but it wasn't anything significant, that's for sure.
Tonight I cleaned the battery terminals, but they actually looked very good. Looking back, I should have checked how tight they were before taking the cable off, but I didn't. Not sure whether a loose cable could explain these symptoms.
I was thinking this was starter or solenoid? Any other diagnosis consistent with the symptoms?
Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
The colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
View 3 RepliesMy car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
View 2 RepliesI love my 2005 GX 470, but the A/C takes a few minutes of driving to get cold. It eventually performs like it should, but it shouldn't take 5+ minutes for the output to be cold I wouldn't think ...
IS THIS NORMAL for this vehicle or is there an issue? what is YOUR experience? My MDX will freeze you out after about 20 seconds of operation ...
It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
View 15 RepliesWhen I start my TReg on a cold start it takes my oil pressure gauge about 10 to 15 minutes to even move up a little bit. My engine also has a loud clatter for about 1 minute when I start on a cold start. Is this normal, could I have a faulty gauge?
View 12 RepliesI wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
View 9 RepliesAlright, Ive been working on this AC system for months and have exhausted the search function and my patience with this car.
Originally the AC wasn't working, self diagnostic test pulled code 00, compressor would kick on for about 10 seconds every time the car was started but never blow cold air.
Had an AC tech check it out, pressurize the system properly, didn't change anything at all.
Replaced the entire compressor set (expansion valve, etc…) and the AC still doesn't work, again it kicks on for the first 5-10 seconds when the car is started and this time it DOES blow cold but then shuts off. Self diagnostic code throws code 21 & 24 in both dark and full daylight.
Replaced the solar sensor today and the diagnostic code is gone (00), but nothing changed with the AC.
Pulled the low pressure switch and jumped it, again the compressor kicks on and then off after 10 seconds with the switch JUMPED!
Replaced the relay, no difference. Cleaned the air filter, no difference.
My dual zone AC started behaving strangely a couple weeks ago. Driver side is blowing cold but the passenger side is blowing warm ambient temperature air. I tried turning off dual and turning back on, manual setting both zones to same temperature, but the passenger side won't blow cold air. Sometimes after driving for a few minutes, the passenger side starts blowing cooler air but not as cold as the driver side. What could cause this problem?
View 6 RepliesIts not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesSo the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
Car sat there for 2 days non driven. Started it up, turned on the AC and it wouldn't blow through the front vents no matter what "mode" I select whether its on vents or legs. Instead it only blows through the windshield ones for the windshield. And it is also blowing outside air or maybe hot air, regardless what temperature I select and with the "AC" button on.
Before when I would press the "AC" button while the air was running I can hear a compressor or some clicking sound which is normal but now there's no sound when I press that and no sound when "mode" is changed.
What I've tried:
All fuses, all are good.
AC relay (good).
Disconnect the battery for 10 min, reconnect. Nothing.
Repair manual suggested action where it displays some codes. (I failed to link those codes to a proper definition in the manual)
Its been 90+ degree here in CA. I cant drive this car without AC.
What a Serpentine Belt is? (how much is it for that part alone and to install at the dealership?)
Dealership told me why during the cold mornings after I start the car up, it is creaking and squeaking........
They told me it needs to be replaced?......
I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
View 7 Replies