Lexus SC430 :: Air Conditioner Not Working - No Cold Air From Front Vents
Jul 11, 2013
Car sat there for 2 days non driven. Started it up, turned on the AC and it wouldn't blow through the front vents no matter what "mode" I select whether its on vents or legs. Instead it only blows through the windshield ones for the windshield. And it is also blowing outside air or maybe hot air, regardless what temperature I select and with the "AC" button on.
Before when I would press the "AC" button while the air was running I can hear a compressor or some clicking sound which is normal but now there's no sound when I press that and no sound when "mode" is changed.
What I've tried:
All fuses, all are good.
AC relay (good).
Disconnect the battery for 10 min, reconnect. Nothing.
Repair manual suggested action where it displays some codes. (I failed to link those codes to a proper definition in the manual)
Its been 90+ degree here in CA. I cant drive this car without AC.
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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1998 Ford Mondeo. Yesturday I changed my air filter and went for a drive today and realized, that air is only coming through the vents right under the windscreen. I am pretty much car literate but cant afford a mechanic... Research I've done (on the net) shows the problem has something to do with the aircon no longer blowing out of my front vents where the A/C is supposed to blow out of, instead it was blowing out of the defrost vents along the windshield. The air will blow high, med, low, cold warm, ect just only through the vents near the wind shield. It has something to do with the vacume?? and the firewall...??? Apparently??
Where to start to get my aircon working again.. Pretty positive I installed and reset the fitting for the air filter correctly. I had my bonnet up so it can cool and I could change the filter and the wind blew it down, and may have something to do with it, I cant see any damage though..
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It just happened yesterday on the freeway, as I hit a small bump. Need to mention this stretch of freeway has those extremely annoying ridges that make everything rattle inside the car, besides the deafening tire howling. But after they're gone, all used to be well. Yesterday, after said bump, this very loud noise behind the center air vents started all of a sudden. It increased with speed.
Sounded like a motor turning. Thought it was the NAV motor (which I never use), but opened it and closed it, and it functioned well. Tried the motor for the stereo cover, and also worked fine. When the motors were operating the sound persisted. The noise disappeared below 50 mph. And not even in broken pavement was present. After speeding above 50 again, now in smooth pavement, it was back. I guess it's there to stay... until 'killed'.
I HATE dealers going on a fishing expedition in my cars, so prefer to know what the heck is causing it, and preferably do it myself (don't trust the only dealer in town). I'll try to tackle it myself, but no way I can live with that noise, so a trip to the dealer seems almost certain, as I don't have a service manual yet to get behind the dash.
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I have a high mileage 2002 SC430.
I have noticed that when I start the engine on a cold morning and start driving right away I hear a distinct "cracking" sound from behind the air vents (dash area) when accelerating. This only occurs when the engine is cold and when I am accelerating, this does not occur when the car is parked (I have not tried revving the engine when the car is parked, since it doesn't seem like a good idea).
A a side note, I do typically move the temperature setting to the max of 85 degrees on cold mornings, but the cracking sound often comes up 5-10 minutes after I change the temperature setting. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it.
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So i just bought my lexus es350 2007 and I just realized that my driver's side doesn't blow cold air unlike the passenger's side i tried to google it and then i believe as i read on here its the blender door.
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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I cannot get heat in the back seat area until the car has been used for an hour or so. The front vents are very hot...but the back blows cold air.
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I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
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So a recent problem on my 2012 sf.. the front vents blow hot and the rear blows cold.?
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I'm having intermittent problems with the air conditioner on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If it matters, it's a 2wd, 3.5 liter model with about 66,000 miles. Below I will post a description of what's happening, as well as some other things that I've noticed and things that I've tried (these may or may not be relevant to the problem though). OK, here's what's happening:
I first noticed the problem back in late July and since then it has been happening more frequently. So far the problem only occurs after I've been driving on the interstate, although I'm not sure if it's a matter of my speed, or just a matter of how long the a/c has been running. Typically I only drive 15 minutes at a time unless I'm on the interstate where I would typically drive for a few hours or so. What's happening is that after a while (the time varies from 20 minutes to an hour or so) the flow of the air conditioning coming through the vents slows down to just a trickle. The a/c is still really cold, but it just barely comes out of the vents, no matter what speed I set it on. Here are some things that I've noticed (and a few things that I've done to try to repair it):
1.) I read that it might be the cabin air filter, even though normally Santa Fe's aren't equipped with them. I took the glove box out, and found the spot where the air filter normally goes and there was one installed (we bought the car used). I took it out and it was disgustingly dirty - a bunch of dirt, some leaves, sticks, etc... I just took out the filter completely and didn't replace it.
2.) While I was looking at that air filter, I also noticed that the box right to the left of that filter was wet with condensation. This was right after a two hour drive with the A/C on maximum cold all the way home though, so I don't know if that is normal or not. It wasn't dripping on the floor, but there was noticeable condensation on that box (I don't know what that "box" is).
3.) The problem will sometimes go away if I turn the air conditioning completely off for about 5-10 minutes. It seems that the longer I leave the a/c off the better chance I have of it working when I turn it back on.
4.) When I change the fan speed on the air conditioning I can hear the blower motor running at different levels. It almost sounds as if there's something in the dash that is clogging up the pipes. I can hear a whistling sound when the blower is on the lowest speed - when it's up any higher than that I can't hear it, but that's probably just because of the noise coming from the blower itself.
5.) I had the problem today, and I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I got back into the car I heard the sound of water trickling from underneath the glove box. It was very quiet, but it was there.
6.) When we have this problem, it happens on all of the vents. It doesn't matter what vent you choose for the air to come out of - the flow is just a trickle.
7.) It doesn't matter if it is heat or cold - the flow is very slow on both of these.
8.) The a/c is still ice cold during all of this. It blows colder than any other a/c that I've ever had.
9.) I noticed that sometimes while driving, a white mist will come out of the vents. Sometimes we have the problem above after we see the mist - sometimes it still works fine though, but I did think it was odd that the "mist" was coming out. I'm not sure if it's water vapor or what, but it does go away if you turn the temperature control a little to the warm side (even just a notch or two away from max cold).
Originally, I had thought that it was the blower motor and I was just going to replace it, but then I started thinking about it and don't think that it is the blower motor because it seems to be working well most of the time, and even when I have the problem I can hear it running - again it sounds like something is clogging up the a/c system somewhere between the blower and the vents. I also read some things about the blend doors, but I'm not sure if that's it or not.
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Alright, Ive been working on this AC system for months and have exhausted the search function and my patience with this car.
Originally the AC wasn't working, self diagnostic test pulled code 00, compressor would kick on for about 10 seconds every time the car was started but never blow cold air.
Had an AC tech check it out, pressurize the system properly, didn't change anything at all.
Replaced the entire compressor set (expansion valve, etc…) and the AC still doesn't work, again it kicks on for the first 5-10 seconds when the car is started and this time it DOES blow cold but then shuts off. Self diagnostic code throws code 21 & 24 in both dark and full daylight.
Replaced the solar sensor today and the diagnostic code is gone (00), but nothing changed with the AC.
Pulled the low pressure switch and jumped it, again the compressor kicks on and then off after 10 seconds with the switch JUMPED!
Replaced the relay, no difference. Cleaned the air filter, no difference.
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My dual zone AC started behaving strangely a couple weeks ago. Driver side is blowing cold but the passenger side is blowing warm ambient temperature air. I tried turning off dual and turning back on, manual setting both zones to same temperature, but the passenger side won't blow cold air. Sometimes after driving for a few minutes, the passenger side starts blowing cooler air but not as cold as the driver side. What could cause this problem?
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I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
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I have a 1994 suburban1500 heater is not working in front or rear and in the front I have no control on the vents it only blows on the floor flashes if I try and change from floor to vents or defrost also blows air on floor while driving with the fan off so seems that the vent is stuck open the rear I have control on vent or floor just will not blow heat just outside temp air I had the same problem with a buick I had and never figured out the problem this is driving me crazy.
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Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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So I've been noticing this winter that pretty much after every cold start a weird smell comes through the vents. To me it smells like natural gas, like the type found in some gas heating systems. It tends to go away after about 10mins. It may have also faded in and out once or twice when the car was running for an extended period of time.
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I bought a 2004 SC 430, Black Onyx, Saddle interior. I have been looking at it for years and I found it at a reasonable price. It has been working like a charm until recently, the convertible top works fine every now and then...the main problem is the cover behind the back seat, it lifts whenever, sometimes it works and sometimes it does not...it is becoming frustrating.
Some days the top goes up and down without an issue, other days the top goes up but the cover does not... sometimes the top goes up fine and when is time to close the trunk opens but the cover does not want to lift so the top does not comes up!!!!!
I read many, many reviews before I decided to buy the car and now that I am driving the car that I wanted for so long I ended up with one that has a malfunction...
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Last week, the keyfob I had with me stopped working (no wireless functions). The light still comes on but I couldn't lock or unlock anything. I started the car thinking it might be some sort of reset thing and then turned it off. The keyfob started working again. I thought it was just a glitch until today when it happened again.
However, this time, no amount of fussing fixed it. I retrieved the second wireless fob from the safe. It too doesn't work.
Either this is a failure or the security system thinks something is up and is out of sync or something. I really don't know.
.One is around 2.7 volts. The other is 3.0 volts.
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