Lexus SC430 :: AC System Never Blow Cold Air
Aug 28, 2015
Alright, Ive been working on this AC system for months and have exhausted the search function and my patience with this car.
Originally the AC wasn't working, self diagnostic test pulled code 00, compressor would kick on for about 10 seconds every time the car was started but never blow cold air.
Had an AC tech check it out, pressurize the system properly, didn't change anything at all.
Replaced the entire compressor set (expansion valve, etc…) and the AC still doesn't work, again it kicks on for the first 5-10 seconds when the car is started and this time it DOES blow cold but then shuts off. Self diagnostic code throws code 21 & 24 in both dark and full daylight.
Replaced the solar sensor today and the diagnostic code is gone (00), but nothing changed with the AC.
Pulled the low pressure switch and jumped it, again the compressor kicks on and then off after 10 seconds with the switch JUMPED!
Replaced the relay, no difference. Cleaned the air filter, no difference.
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I have 2006 GX470 with Nav. A/C does not blow cold from driver side , I replaced Air mix servo, but still same problem. heater is working both side .
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I have owned my 2008 Rx 400 h for just over two months now and at the risk of sounding dense, am I right in assuming that when you are coasting along without the engine running, the heater will start to blow cold air? Everything works fine until you lift your foot off the pedal. This is my first Lexus/Toyota and hybrid so I'm not totally au fait with how it should be working.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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I had read in the forum that there is an aftermarket upgrade available that modifies the older ML system for Bluetooth, MP3, etc. best way to modify or upgrade the ML system.
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So i just bought my lexus es350 2007 and I just realized that my driver's side doesn't blow cold air unlike the passenger's side i tried to google it and then i believe as i read on here its the blender door.
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The leak appears to originate somewhere around the master cylinder but I cannot locate the exact spot.
I noticed the problem when I started the car and it began to generate white smoke in the drivers side. I also knew it was not oil or ATF because brake fluid smells different. I pulled the cover by the master cylinder (MC) and could see an area that was wet under the MC.
I may have a reservoir leak but I cannot pinpoint at this time. Photos will be provided later if I can take some that show the issue.. I do know they are expensive and I do know that Toyota and Lexus recalled several models for a leaky reservoir.
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VSC, VCS OFF and Check Engine Light .... all came on a few minutes ago while out for a Sunday afternoon drive. Depressing/releasing the "VSC OFF" button multiple times did nothing. All 3 lights now stay on. Checked the manual which said to take in to Lexus dealer asap but could continue driving....something about vehicle stability control system not activating.
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I accidently press on the suspend route and not it doesn't navigate for me. I know its just as simple as pressing the option but its "frozen". So lost without the navigation system.
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What gives? Tire pressure light on but the system is disabled
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My dual zone AC started behaving strangely a couple weeks ago. Driver side is blowing cold but the passenger side is blowing warm ambient temperature air. I tried turning off dual and turning back on, manual setting both zones to same temperature, but the passenger side won't blow cold air. Sometimes after driving for a few minutes, the passenger side starts blowing cooler air but not as cold as the driver side. What could cause this problem?
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My navigation system just shut off and the screen reads" can not read disk" . Any solution for this problem?
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Is there any way to replace the stock nav system with something that is easier to use and more up to date and works? I did upgrade the disc and it's still a pain to use. My Iphone does a much better job, is easier to use. Also can upgrading the stock suspension on a 2003 SC 430, I got it a couple of months ago with 24000 miles but would like better handling but would like to keep the ride decent.
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Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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Navigation system has been working fine and then today if get a screen that says:
"Unable to read data - Check if map DVD is correct"...
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Car sat there for 2 days non driven. Started it up, turned on the AC and it wouldn't blow through the front vents no matter what "mode" I select whether its on vents or legs. Instead it only blows through the windshield ones for the windshield. And it is also blowing outside air or maybe hot air, regardless what temperature I select and with the "AC" button on.
Before when I would press the "AC" button while the air was running I can hear a compressor or some clicking sound which is normal but now there's no sound when I press that and no sound when "mode" is changed.
What I've tried:
All fuses, all are good.
AC relay (good).
Disconnect the battery for 10 min, reconnect. Nothing.
Repair manual suggested action where it displays some codes. (I failed to link those codes to a proper definition in the manual)
Its been 90+ degree here in CA. I cant drive this car without AC.
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I have a 130K+ 2002 SC430 in which I recently started to smell gas in the cabin when air vents were set to pull air from outside. Within two weeks, I got the check engine light with two codes, P0440 and P0446, which mean "Evap Emission Control System Malfunction".
In doing some research the check light light could be everything from a gas cap which is not tighened properly, to a bad "charcoal canister " (whatever exactly that is), to a cracked or disconnected "Evap Hose". The only other SC430 related thread I could find on this topic is [URL] ....
If it factors in, I only use 93 octane gas. Interestingly enough, the check engine light came on within 30 seconds of me using the window washer to clean the windshield (at highway speeds), likely a coincidence.
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What a Serpentine Belt is? (how much is it for that part alone and to install at the dealership?)
Dealership told me why during the cold mornings after I start the car up, it is creaking and squeaking........
They told me it needs to be replaced?......
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I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
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