Lexus SC430 :: 2006 Wheel Alignment For Uneven Wear?
Aug 10, 2010
I have a 2006 SC 430 with 20,000 miles on it The (run flat) tires are wearing on the inside and the dealer says that they need replacing The local tire shop agrees, and will sell the tires to me for less, and also throw in an alignment He says that alignment is the reason for the uneven wear But the dealer says that the wheel on my 2006 SC 430 cannot be aligned, and that the new ones will probably wear the same way
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My front driver's side Bridgestone Turanza EL400 (225/40R18) has premature wear such that the steel belt is beginning to show through the center of the tread. The front passenger side tire has no such wear and the alignment is good.
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Premature tire wear and faulty wheel alignment issues on 2004 Touareg V8 with 10,000 miles. My dealer informed me that my original tires, Continental 4X4 Contact 255/55R18s were about to need replacement and that there were known issues with the tire compound and alignment specifications. I have had the vehicle about 14 months. He said it was over twelve months but he would bring it up with the district representative. I told him that I thought this came under concealed defects and I expected VW to replace the tires and align all four wheels to whatever the current spec. Are there VW bulletins covering this I can obtain copies of?
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Why are My Tires Wearing Unevenly?
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Any 1 have their tire that have uneven tire wear? Mines is Dunlop and my front right tire has uneven wear on the outer thread. All other tire don't have uneven wear. I'm getting new tire for all 4 rims and check my alignment. My gs is a f sport rwd.
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97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
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I have a 2002 sc430 with 120000 miles, great car no problems just maintenance. For the last couple of days I heard a chirping sound as I slowed down to a stop. The only thing I could think was the brakes, but I just changed the front and rear pads March 2011. So today I looked at the front brakes and saw the pads at about 50% and everything else looked good. Then went to the rear and saw something I thought was odd...take a look at the picture.... The last time I changed the pads I don't recall having this problem. See the red arrow, one of the pads is worn almost completely down and the circle shows a lip on both pads??? I checked the caliper pistons and they work fine, the pin that hold the pads is not bent and the clips are fine.
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I have a 2011 Camry SE which I leased brand new from a dealership in Ottawa. It has about 35,000 KMs on it. After my last regular maintenance at the dealership (32K oil/filter change with tire rotation etc.), I started noticing a sound coming from the tires. The sound is like low pitch boom boom boom boom. I tool it to the dealdership and they told me there is uneven wear on the tire which is normal for Camry SEs because they have wider tires that easily scallop during hard cornering.
Firstly, I do not buy that explanation because it's not the first car I have driven with a little wider tires. Secondly, I do not drive rough as most of the times I have my kids in the car with me. Lastly, I would think that if you are selling sports tuned cars, you would choose appropriate tires for it so buyers can drive it like a sports car.
I wonder why the situation became noticeable after the tire rotation. According to the rep at the dealership, all 4 tires have uneven wear so should I not have noticed it before the rotation?
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I noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
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2005 I4 SE Camry USA built. Got a squeak from the rears the other day and pulled the tires to check. Inside pads (ones against the caliper cylinder) on both rear wheels were at the metal but the outside pads were still not down to the little stripe down the middle of the pads, let alone the wear indicator clip. I pulled slide pins and there were not stuck. The calipers retracted very easily, so not gunked up or dragging. I ordered a new hardware kit with the new dust boots and rubber slide pin parts. I am using good Permatex disc brake grease. I am going to have to have the rotors turned, but aside from replacing the rubber parts the only other thing I can think of is slide pin replacement.
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I just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
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While in for an oil change, the tech pointed out that my rear brakes were almost metal to metal, and that one pad on each side of the car had severe uneven wear. He noted he had never seen rear brakes go this quickly in a Prius and he had never seen the uneven wear. He said part of the mechanism that allows the pad to slide in and out as the brakes are used had frozen, creating a pivot point, and creating the uneven wear. The front brakes are fine with plenty of meat left.
Parts were ordered, including new shims and other hardware to try to insure this does not happen again, and the brakes were replaced. I contacted Toyota Customer Care and basically got the old line that brakes are a wear and tear item but the issue would be sent onto engineers.
I am the sole driver of the car and use the regen brakes at every opportunity, which is most stops. Since long brake life is one of the benefits of regen brakes, this is disappointing to say the least.
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My 2014 Elantra Gt bought in May 2014 and 18000km on it now, the rear tires on both side are worn out pretty bad on the outter side of the tire. I took it to one of the dealer. The mechanic said that's not about the alignment, it's because I drove too hard in the corner..... So, I made an appointment with the other dealership which I bought the GT. I was told that it need the alignment and it's not covered by the warranty. I don't mind to pay for it but just want to make sure they will fix it.
I have the KYB on it right now. should I swap it back to the oem before I go to the dealer??
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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT using the Futura GLS 225/70/R15 tires. The vehicle decal in the driver side door listed the recommended tire pressure to be 30 PSI. I have tried to maintain religiously along with proper balance and alignment. However, I've always had the experience of the tires wearing out more along the middle which seemed to indicate over inflation. The sections on either side of the center line seemed to wear out normally. For this reason I've had to turn in the tire prematurely as they become unsafe. These tires were made by Coopers Tire and distributed by Pep Boys. Have i been using poor quality tires all along? Do I need to lower my tire pressure below the 30 PSI recommended? If I do that wouldn't I be risking overheating and/or affecting my gas mileage?
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I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
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2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
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I have 3 new tires and 1 with wave or cupping wear. It is a new tire not even a year used. I went in to get my alignment fixed because I was told the cupping is due to car being out of alignment. They told me I have to replace the tire with the cupping wear on it before they do the alignment. Is this true? or can i keep the tire and not have to shell out more money for a tire that is not even a year old. that being said, I am now doing more research and realizing that cupping is actually due to problems with the shocks. not alignment.
It's a 2009 toyota matrix xrs....
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Have a 2001 F350 7.3 4X4 with single wheels in rear. Started hearing brakes noise and decided to change both front and rear pads. Front had almost half the pads left. Rear on drivers side had about half the pads left. The passenger side metal to metal on the inboard pad and about half the pad on the outboard side. The slides on the caliper were a little sluggish but moved freely. Don't think there is enough to have them turned so will have to replace the rotors. Why this would happen. Could the caliper get stuck? It was easy enough to compress with a C clamp.
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So due to a puncture I got earlier this week, I had to buy a new front passenger side right tire. Now the car pulls very slightly to the right. Is this due to having about 6k miles on the left tire and a brand new right tire or do I need an alignment again?
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Lexus: GX 470 2003
I went to go get a wheel alignment (when driving my car starts drifting to the left hard/ also when my hands aren't on wheel) and they discovered that my front left tie rod is wobbly (also said lower ball joint is suspect). I was told they couldn't perform a complete wheel alignment until fixing the front left tie rod first.
Overall to fix/part/wheel alignment, the quote is
Labor: 223.97
Parts: 71.13 (I seen online for about 50 dollars cheaper??)
ENVIRO/DISPO: 23.61
Sales Tax: 5.68
Total: 324.39 (After 40.00 coupon)
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I just bought a 2006 LS460. It's pulling strongly to the left (this is a UK RHD car). I'm assuming this is just a wheel alignment/tracking thing, but just in case it's not, are there any other potential causes that I should be aware of ?
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