Lexus SC430 :: 2006 - Exhaust Tip Removal
Jul 9, 2010
I purchased two new exhaust tips for my 2006 sc430 because one of the exhaust tips was slightly bent. I thought by removing the screw near muffler would be all that it took and each one could be pulled off. However after removing the screw from one of them, I could not pull it off.
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I'm doing PPE headers right now but stuck with steering shaft I removed 1 bolt in the car and 2 in the engine bay on the shaft.... but there's just not enough give to slide the shaft out. I need a crash course on this thing pictures photos or whatever would be nice.
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Removing the back seat to allow the front seats to be reclined more? at 6'4'' I need more leg room! Or any other way on getting more leg room in the front seats?
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I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. It runs great, but the exhaust smell is killing me. I'm pretty sure it's normal for an 11 year old car, but I want to eliminate it.
Do you know what part or part(s) I might be able to replace to eliminate the foul smell?
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I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
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I would like to replace the transmission fluid in my 2006 SC and do the mod to make shifting firm. I have read a few threads that post pictures of the pressure regulator dial in pre 06 to firm up shifting. One such thread is this. However, I have not come up with any for 06+ transmission.
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I have a 2006 SC 430 with 20,000 miles on it The (run flat) tires are wearing on the inside and the dealer says that they need replacing The local tire shop agrees, and will sell the tires to me for less, and also throw in an alignment He says that alignment is the reason for the uneven wear But the dealer says that the wheel on my 2006 SC 430 cannot be aligned, and that the new ones will probably wear the same way
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My '06 SC has about 72k miles and I've notice of late after starting it, it initially idles at about 1,200 RPM and tends to stay there until after driving and warmed up and then goes down. It used to start up at 1,200 RPM and after a very brief period of time would settle at 1,000 or 800 RPM, I can't recall exactly. My question is, is this normal related to the life of the engine, or do I have a sensor or other type of issue that can be addressed.
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I have a 2004 SC, I want to install the new digital with back light odometer. Does it will fit or I have to do some modifications? Are the connector the same?
I found a used 2006 full odometer that contains all the gauges in a very clean condition?
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How to remove the driver side door trim? i need to change my side mirror housing. My is a 2007 gs450h.
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I have a 2006 sc430 and have been having problems with the drivers memory seat although the passenger one works fine.
I have disconnected my batter for 5 minutes, moved the passenger seat all the way forward, heard the beep. Moved the reclining part all the way forward until I heard the beep, and the memory seat for the passenger works great.
I moved the drivers seat all the way forward, heard the beep. Moved the reclining part all the way forward until I heard the beep, but the memory seat won't beep (when you hold set and a number). I even replaced my drivers mirror (didn't tilt down due to bad motor), but that didn't work. Of course, I did redo disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it resetting both drivers seat and passenger seat.
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I just got a beautiful red '06 with only 19k miles. It's my second SC, and I can't believe how much I missed it after a four year break.
However, there's already trouble. The roof only opens intermittently. When it works, it's all good, no vibrations, nothing off track, smooth operation all the way open and close.
When it doesn't work, the red light on the open/close button will NOT light up. Nothing happens at all. I will come back to the car a few hours (or minutes) later, and it works fine. The problem never occurs for closing, only opening. Also, several times now I have closed my roof, and then immediately tried to open it again, but no deal. Those symptoms make me think it's not the ECU, but one of the sensors.
BTW, there is no Luxlink installed yet. I have yet to find one that includes the double-click option
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I have the invidia midpipe installed on my 06 GS300 AWD. The guy at the shop had to do some cutting and welding to make it fit on the driver's side, I also noticed he removed the damper near the middle of the car for the pipe to fit as well. Ever since then, my car makes a loud rattle whenever I start the car, but only when the engine hasn't been started for a few hours, what it could be, I never had time to take it back and let it cool for him to check it out.
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I have come across reading about all the issues 2006 AWD models have, and one in particular is the exhaust system. It lacks a proper replacement. After reading about people's exhaust system leaking having rust through out, I decided to take a look at mine. It is full of rust.
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It was a rainy day and I was going to drive my GS300 2006. After starting the car and let it warm up for a bit I notice a decent amount of white smoke from my exhaust which at first I thought was due to the rainy weather (abt 28celcius in Thailand) but it doesn't feel normal. Shortly after I see it coming from the engine so I opened the hood to check. I also went for a short ride around the village and the white smoke still continues from both engine and exhaust...
Its on the right side in between the engine and the battery...
There is also something like a little boil from that joint...
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I have a 2007 GS 350 AWD and growing frustrated with some of its 'issues'. I have had the wheels replaced b/c they coating was 'bubbling' (the local dealer said this was normal...50,000 miles later this is happening again). At 60,000 miles to have frozen brake calipers replaced...never had this happen on any other vehicles, to include domestics with well over 100,000 miles, much less two of them freeze. A cracked exhaust, not to mentioned multiples recalls on a vehicle that has not even reached 75,000 miles. The engine has funny idling issues at low RPM's and the VSC and Check Engine lights came on list night but have since extinguished.
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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Finally getting to my header and exhaust install.
I plan on removing the secondary air injection as I have no provision for it. Will this throw a CEL?
Looks like it goes into a rubber hose and comes around to the top of the intake manifold.
What is the best/cleanest way to cap this off?
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Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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