Lexus SC430 :: 2002 - Low Coolant Temp For Closed Loop Fuel Control
Jun 11, 2010
Check engine light with code 0125. This code indicates low coolant temp for closed loop fuel control. Well I have changed the thermostat, engine temp sensor and new coolant. After driving approx. 5 miles the light came on again.
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1997 7.5, 5spd, s/d system. With my scanner hooked up driving @ wot the pcm goes into closed loop, you can actually feel the power loss. live data shows stft subtracting fuel and injector pulse dropping to 16.2 ms from 21ms.
From what I could understand is that it is some type of emissions strategy from the pcm, how to over ride it.
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2002 LE 2.4 A/T 85k miles. all maintenance up to date.
I got a CEL P0420 last night, car ran fine for 85 miles so I could get home. Hook scan tool up to look at sensor outputs, and found that the A/F ratio sensor is N/A. And that the car is never going into open loop. Coolant temp stays around 185 at 55 mph and will only hit 200 if I hold it at around 2500 RPM in neutral while stopped. Even on the highway it stays in closed loop.
I know about the P0420 catalyst code every Camry I have ever had eventually gets it. But could it be caused by staying in closed loop for extended periods of time? Should I replace the thermostat to try to get the engine temp up?
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I'm having some trouble regulating the cabin temp in my 2002 SC430. It's cold outside here in Atlanta (in the 30's in the morning) and for some reason even when I have the temp set on 66 (not in auto mode) the cabin gets really hot! If I drop it to 65 the AC comes on. It's just weird.
Not sure where the temp sensor is located (will check the manual for that) but having a problem regulating the cabin temp. If put it the auto mode -- it ramps the fan up to high and cooks us all inside the car.
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I know this is a weird post but I am looking for a climate control head unit that does not work. I need the silver covering plate that is part # 55901-24030 that is not damaged.
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Tried to close the top and it stuck. The deck lid is up, top is half- way unfolded, package tray is in up position. The motor acts like it is binding with ever so slight movement when I push the button to raise or lower. The red light on the dash switch is lit (red).
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New owner for a 2002 SC, Made mistake when lowering top to hit trunk button, top has stopped half open half closed Light on lose button is solid red and if pushed blinks red but nothing happens.
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2001 Santa Fe, 2.4L DOHC engine, 129,000 miles
I bought the vehicle knowing that it was not running well. It idled quite smoothly but had no power on acceleration but was able drive it home at ~30mph. Never had a timing belt change so I foolishly fixed that before I solved the low power problem. Timing belt change went OK and then I discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked - HUGE crack. Fixed that and installed new cat at the same time. Checked compression and read consistent 127-129 across 4 cylinders. Also installed new before and after O2 sensors at this time. Started her up and sounds good, idles smooth. Hooked the scanner up and read P0115 (something about engine coolant temperature circuit), so I cleared it thinking it must have overheated in the past and that is how the E-manifold cracked.
P0115 never returned.
I have no codes showing now however it appears to be running in open loop and scanner shows "open loop due to insufficient engine temperature" but engine temperature is reading 200 deg F. Also the O2 sensors are not being read, see attached readout.
At this point I am stumped and am thinking I need to check fuel pressure or maybe injectors are clogged. But why would it be running in open loop?
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Yesterday went to fill up and the push feature on the fuel door would not open it. The door would pop out about 1/4 inch and would not release open even with a forceful tug. Played with it for some time pushing and couldn't get it to release. I actually left the gas station with no fuel. when I got home it worked fine so back to the gas station. Never had this Issue before and I go through fuel like its my job.
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My '04 Passat 4Motion (station wagon) engine coolant temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and outside temperature display all stopped working in the same time. Interestingly enough, car has 32K miles and just ran out of manufacturer warranty 2 months ago.
What could be happening? Should I be checking fuse box or this may be related to some more serious failure?
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I've tried searching, While I can find instructions for changing these valves on other cars, I can't find it for the SC 430.
Is there a link here for how to do that? I think my filters are probably clogged (165,000 miles) but I can't figure out where they are.
I'm thinking it may be why my VSC light is on as well. Should I try Seafoam in the crankcase first?
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Just wondering if there's been any incident where the coolant in the SC430 is leaked into the gearbox at the radiator. I mean, these cars do have the transmission fluid running through the radiator, right? I've read that this occurs a lot on LS430 and many Mercedes models.
Would it be a good preventive measure to replace the radiator anyway? Or, is it ok to wait till there're signs of such leakage (if it doesn't usually begin as a major leak)?
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What is the location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor? I search but I couldn't find a picture or diagram for our car.
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My engine coolant is low, so I just picked some up from toyota to top it off. The bottle says to see the owner's manual for the proper ratio. I don't have mine handy. The best I could find was this PDF posted by Bob. But it doesn't have the ratio. What it should be?
[URL]....
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The outside temperature has been cold since the purchase of my 07 SC almost 2 weeks ago (below freezing F ). The A/C green light has not been lit. My 05 SC, the light was on all the time. Dealer says the system will turn the A/C off in certain circumstances in very cold conditions.
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At the 150K mile mark electromechanical components are starting to fail (Nav DVD reader, CD changer, 2 starters (they seem good for only ~70K miles), brake switch, etc.) which is probably reasonable to expect, even in a non-humid climate. Recently, the controls for the passenger side window stopped working. Some details:
- Driver's side window control works to control driver's side window
- Passenger side window switch LEDs are not lit on either door
- Passenger side window rolls up and down when top is changed to up or down position
Given that the motor is proven good by the fact that the window goes up and down with no problems when the top's position is changed, I'm inclined to think that there is probably an issue with the "COMPUTER MPX DOOR" component in the passenger door.
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I have a 2002 Celica GT and the cooling loop on the power steering that runs out in front of the radiator (or AC condenser) is cracked and leaking. I need to replace it, I have a few questions:
- Where to get a replacement, likely Toyota?
- Find out how much work it is to replace myself?
- Does the system auto bleed any air or will I have to bleed it?
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Unfortunately my car Heater A/C Control Panel LCD is broken, I mean only the screen. I accidentally hit the screen while I was pulling my guitar from the back seat .It shows many black lines that are almost covering the whole LCD!! everything is working fine except nothing can be seen on the screen.
I was told that I must buy the whole panel and it is really costly. I thought maybe I can replace only the screen? Is it possible? Or can I get any other car LCD and fix it into this panel??
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VSC, VCS OFF and Check Engine Light .... all came on a few minutes ago while out for a Sunday afternoon drive. Depressing/releasing the "VSC OFF" button multiple times did nothing. All 3 lights now stay on. Checked the manual which said to take in to Lexus dealer asap but could continue driving....something about vehicle stability control system not activating.
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Well I cracked the clear plastic lens on the AC control unil while removing it to replace the factory radio. Where I can just get the minimal parts to fix this? Seems all I can find online thus far is only replacement of basically the whole control unit.
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So the climate control on my 2002 430 is starting to loose sections of the numbers.
Not a bunch but I fear that it is just a matter of time before they all go away.
I assume, not being a LCD engineer, that there really isn't much that can be done to fix my existing LCD but I thought I would ask the group hoping for a resolution other than replacing the LCD.
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