Lexus SC430 :: 2002 Hard Steel On Steel Knock Sounds In Front
Dec 11, 2014
I have had my struts replaced at local gas station. Unfortunately, there is now an occasional hard steel on steel knock in the front. Very weird indeed.
Is there something they may have missed when they installed them?
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My friend has an 07 Camry with the factory steel rims and they are always such a pain to get off. They never come off easy at all. I bang & bang & bang on it lightly on the tire & on the rim & after a few mins it will come off. It is always like this on all 4 tires! The first time I worked on his car all 4 tires were stuck on good, and it took me almost 45 mins just to remove the 4 tires. So before I put them back on, I cleaned up the rust and I put some anti-seize around hub snout and still they are pain to get off. I have other cars with steel rims and they all come off easy..Why such a pain with the 07 Camry steel rims?
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When traveling over bridges that have a ribbed steel ramp over the draw portion of the bridge, my 2012 Gen III does a slight shimmy.
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Got two of these for my Sportswagen. However it seems impossible to screw down all 3 latches to fit the exhaust, I ended up just screwing in one (the one at the bottom)... how to install?
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Everytime I run my revs past 4 and shift, I can hear a steel rattle right at the shift. It's stock exhaust btw, no mods...
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I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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I just inherited a 2012 F150 Fx4 Super Crew. Nice looking truck, but the wheels are stock 17" steel. Need upgrading to nicer looking wheels/wheel covers w/o breaking the bank?
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Is it okay to use an angle grinder to remove rust from steel wheels? Is it generally considered better to use a wire brush / wheel / cup on a drill? Pros and Cons?
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Suppose a puncture hole were to inadvertently appear in the bottom of my gas tank? What would be some good ways to plug the hole? I'm thinking a fine thread stainless steel flat head screw that was screwed into a tapped hole with special glue/sealant and a washer would probably work.
You're probably catching on now... A non electric drill would probably be best to drill into the bottom of a full gas tank but all I have presently are battery powered and 100volt drills.
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Winter is around the corner and I would like to remove the chrome covers off of my 04 factory rims, the rims are rusting underneath the covers which is forcing my center caps to pop off randomly. Also I was going to get new winter tires so while they rims are off the tire i figured I would Paint them black to match better than the chrome. How to get them off easily? Also a good paint that wont chip easy when i paint them.
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Im working on my buddies 2005 F150 FX4. In the midst of buttoning everything up and calling it a day I happen to see fluid dripping. The OEM steel brake line had been rubbing on the steering shaft and while doing the brakes, must of busted through all of the way.
I have been to Advance and Napa at least 4 times trying to match stuff up. Nothing works from either of them.
Called Ford and talked to a parts guy who lacked general automotive knowledge and finally had to pull up there diagram to show him the correct part. He told me that part is discontinued and cannot be ordered.
It is #2264 in this diagram.
2005 Ford F-150 Front Brake Hydraulic Hose | FordParts.com
I have the factory fittings and everything to make a new line. I cannot find tube that is 5.20mm or .20". Everything I find in a roll is either 3/16 or 6mm.
The fitting is a 12mmx1.00 on the ABS brain. The caliper hose appears to be a 3/8x24. A 10mmx1.00 which is standard metric 3/16 tube nut is to big for the OEM caliper hose. A standard 3/16 flare wont seat on the caliper hose.
So it seems like what Ford did here was.... a 12mmx1.00 on a 5.20mm tube to a 3/8x24 to a caliper hose that wont seat with out 5.20mm tube.
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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After installing the autospring 2" Leveling kit and the rear add a leaf 1.5" I was wondering if its at all possible to add a slight steel plate between the spacers and rear leaf to get just a little more lift.
I have access to our shop where I can get the steel and get it cut and drilled accurately, just wondering if this will cause any issues be adding additional plate?
Like for the front add it between the spacer and strut and in the back, when when I was adding the new leaf it had some shims I guess in between the leafs, so just curious if I could add the plate under the leafs?
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I have just noticed a random knock on front end on 2002 430 sc when going 5 to 10 mph and turning steering wheel to left or right...sounds like metal to metal and shifting or movement knock ... turning left, sound on passenger side; turning right, sound on drivers side..brake system checked out ok; had struts, plates and insulators changed; checks were made on torques to all front suspension bolts and everything is tight and no movements in bushings and etc.. totally baffled and really an annoying sound......ball joints are tight and no movement.
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I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
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On my 2002 SC with 51K miles, the front end is squeaking. BTW, shocks are good...
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I own a stock GS300 2007 RWD doing about 80K miles here in Thailand. I am facing one critical issue with my ride. While driving normally if I hit the brake hard the car seems to loose power then there is a hard knock from the rear which knocks the car forward. I think it is caused from the downshift of the gear, but I am not quite sure. It happens often in the same kind of situation.
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I noticed my engine light and vsc lights came on two days ago and then after a restart went away.
It's been two days and today the lights came on again and I noticed a hesitation in acceleration.. got the codes scanned I believe they were p0330 and p0325 for bank 1 sensor 1 knock sensor. They wiped the code so I'm going to drive it to see if it comes back on? Where is this sensor located?
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My Lexus SC430 parking sensor alarm sounds intermittently while I am driving. (No, I do not tailgate the car in front.)
It has happened several times, all but once when it was raining. On that one occasion, the sun was shining. It happened again today while it was raining, and continued to sound after the rain had stopped, but the road was still wet.
What could be causing this to happen, and how can it be prevented. I have decided to fit an ON-OFF switch, if the problem cannot be solved conventionally.
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Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
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As the title says....sometimes the trunk does not latch unless I close it hard. Is this normal for a SC? Why?
I took some pictures of the hook and the latch so what is wrong:
First, the hook:
A couple of views of the latch:
I cannot tell if something is wrong....other than a slight dent on the outside perimeter of the latch housing?
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