I have a 1993 Lexus SC 300 and have met all maint milestones. Recently had both rear shocks replaced and am getting a SHARP metal contact in the left rear when the suspension begins to load. Mechanic spent afternoon looking in shock mount, trunk, spare, jack, spare and antenna mast-can't find it. New tires. New rear brakes-told me that was it. Still there.
View 2 RepliesHonda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
View 2 RepliesMy left rear suspension will leak down to bump stops unless I turn off auto suspension leveler. I can set suspension at high level turn off and it will stay that way i had set that way for 2 weeks and no leak but if I turn on leveler it may stay or it may leak down usually just left side somebody had said that my air bags were leaking so I tested it out all last month and find it hard to believe the bags are leaking if it will stay inflated a week or 2.
View 1 RepliesWhen driving in my parking garage, I can hear a slight metal on metal noise. An extreme example would be sharpening a knife on a sharpener, its not as loud or predominate.
-I've checked the lugs, they are secure.
Car has springs and spacers.
ok, its been 9-10 months now, and i have only 3500 miles on my gx.just looked at the back wheel wells.
The left side of the truck in the back is sitting about 1.5 inchs higher than the right rear? I measured the distance between the rims and the edge of the panel in the back. I am baffled. I raised it, lowered it, and still unequal height. Its going to the dealer on wednesday.
I was driving home today from work and everything seemed to be going well until I approached a bump a few blocks from my house. I was literally driving 3mph over the speed bump. When my read was coming down the speed bump I heard a loud metal clunk come from the rear. I tried looking underneath the car with a flashlight but no success. It's not a constant clunk. Only when I go over a speed bump and certain cracks or potholes in the street.
View 3 RepliesI have a 95 Lexus SC300. When I start the car and later when the engine gets hot, it just shuts down.I don't know what's wrong with it. I changed the spark plugs and the coil. I'm guessing it is the sensor, but I don't know if it's that problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
Over the last 2 weeks I've begun to hear what sounds like a metal on metal clunk from my suspension. I even think I can feel it. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas down or stopping and it is usually just one clunk but recently the clunk has gotten worse up front where it may clunk 2 or 3 times while braking. It happens right when I press the gas down from a dead stop and right as I'm about come to a complete stop. Both the front axles have been replaced so I know it's not that also because it doesn't make the clicking sound at all, just a clunk sound.
View 6 RepliesI have a problem! I have only had my 07 gs awd for less than 2 months. I noticed this morning when I turn my wheel all the way to the left or right it makes a grinding or like metal on metal noise. My brakes were done only a year ago, and this noise only happens when I'm turned all the way to the right or left.
View 11 RepliesI replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
View 1 Replies2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
Sometimes when closing either the front driver or passenger door, it seems as though the door is not closing properly and it sounds like the latches are striking metal against metal. The doors always close and the noise does not occur all the time, in fact it occurs on a very seldom basis. The noise is very annoying and definitely does not sound right. I can not repeat the problem at will and I fear the dealer will not be able to locaate, unless it happens just as they close the door. The doors do close tight, but the sound is awful (sharp metal hitting metal sound).
View 2 RepliesA few months ago I had the passenger side Control Arm replaced. Over a year ago I had them both replaced with after market parts. I went into the dealer and was told the reason the parts failed so soon was because the parts were aftermarket parts and that I should have them replaced with original Toyota part. When the passenger side failed again, I had the dealer replace it with an original Toyota part.
Here's the problem: after they replaced the one side with an Toyota part I took my car and immediately when making a sharp turn to the right the vehicle making a jerking motion. It was unnerving the first time. It felt as if the vehicle might turn over. I noticed that this only happen or mostly happen when making a turn to the right.
Also, as I'm accelerating the vehicle will pull to the right the abruptly jerk to the left. What I was told by the dealer is that scene replaced the one side with a Original Part and the other side was an aftermarket part, the two not being of the same quality were what I felt he was saying that the parts were slightly different in size and would cause this problem.
I installed KW V3 coilovers back in October. About a week ago I started getting a popping noise in the left rear suspension when going over speed bumps or up my driveway from the street at certain angles. I could not find any evidence of the springs binding, but did notice that there was some separation of rubber around the plastic center of the rubber mount beneath the spring. This likely the problem or loose sub frame bolts?
View 1 RepliesMy wifes Passat wagon just got the 40k service and the dealer replaced the sway bar bushings in hopes of getting rid of some SQUEAKS that the car has made since we got it, it is lowered on h&r springs and bilstien shocks, however the sway bar bushings really didn't fix it, it seems to squeak when turning to the left and its definitely coming from the back.
View 7 RepliesMy rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
View 9 RepliesMy '93 Metro 3 cyl (The Phoenix) is becoming a bit 'Long in the Tooth'...
Now, this summer, it has started creaking and popping when I go over wavy roads or take sharp curves at speed.
If I accelerate/decelerate the frame pops over on the passenger side and I hear pops in the trunk area.
I wonder how much longer it will be safe to drive.
My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 115,000 miles on it. After about 15 minutes of driving, a vibrating buzzing dentist-drill like sound begins to come from the back left of the car (this is also where I put in the gas if that has anything to do with it). I do not know what it sounds like from the outside but its definitely a buzzing sound from the inside. As I increase in RPMs the buzzing sound gets more and more high pitched.
I do not drive this car very much, but about a month ago I was driving down a mountain using the breaks a lot and the buzzing sound started for the first time with a rubber smell. At this point because of the rubber smell, we just thought it was an issue with the breaks and after taking a 20 minute rest, the car drove the rest of the 400 miles or so perfectly fine without any buzzing. I don't use the car very much because I am in college, but when I do, like I said, after 15 minutes this buzzing starts.