Lexus - RX300 :: 2000 - Can't Lock The Door Sometimes In Hot Weather
Sep 19, 2011
2000 Lexus RX300 - door locks/acutators... the locks open and close perfectly with the master driver actuator lock unlock button or with the the remote IF the temp is 70 degrees or below. If the temp is above 70 degrees the the actuators for all four doors will NOT all lock..1-4 do sometimes....they vary from door to door, day to day , including the driver driver door. Actators are expensive. Because they do work when cooler it tells me they do work. Why not when warm? what do I need to do? This is my mystery
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I have a 2000 lexus rx300. the steering rack was replaced 2yrs/20k ago. now, there is very slight seeping of fluid. only noticeable on on the boot and never drips onto the floor. i took it back to the dealer and they said that is normal and after 2yrs it's in very good shape. i question why if the seals are working properly then should i see this?
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Currently I own a 2000 Lexus RX 300. I just had an oil change but there is a noise by the tires only when I accelerate. When I put my foot on the brakes it stops. I am at a loss. Where would the best place to ask and get the work done.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
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2000... I have a code P0171 bank 1 too lean. My question is does this exclude anything that will effect both banks? If it was MAF sensor or fuel filter would it set code and say banks 1 and 2 running too lean? In which MAF sensor ohms out correctly. I cannot view fuel trim files. I have looked for a vacuum leak with no luck. I got some cigars to try to smoke it to see if there is any vacuum leaks. Trying to narrowing what i need to checks.
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its kinda like its freezing up; the pin wont go down sometimes and I have to cycle it multiple times b4 it will descend.
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We have a 2000 Ford Explorer and the Driver's side electronic door lock will only unlock during warm weather. The lock will work to lock the doors, but if the temperature is below a certain degree, the door won't unlock. What is the fix?
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I do have an Accent 2002 automatic 1,6 L. All doors have a power lock door motor EXCEPT driver door. The only way to lock or unlock ALL doors is with the key.
If I unlock the driver door, all door unlock. I know I have to add a motor to the mechanism in the driver door, but I don't know what to add exactly...
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, driver side door lock actuator has failed. Door is shut and will not open. I have pulled back the door panel enough to see the actuator and touch it. How can I get the door open to replace the actuator?
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I just bought a 2000 ford excursion 7.3. None of the power door locks currently work but the one I am really consented about is the back window that folds up and down. I need to find out how to fix this back window because I can't lock it with the key like the others.
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The VSC light came on at approximately 62000 miles. Took it too a mechanic who put it on computer, found gas cap loose, and reconnected hose under air filter however no code shows on the computer for a fix. The VSC light still remains on. Tried all the internet fixes; pulling fuse & disconnecting battery cable. The light goes out but as soon as I move the car it comes back on. Is there anything I can do to avoid a large dollar visit to the Lexus dealer since there are no driving or stopping symptoms with the car.
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My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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My 1999 lexus rx300 first threw a P1135 following a P0125, I tested the sensor and it was open at the heater circuit then then I was waiting the new part in the mail and during that time it kept running rough and then it threw a P0300, P0301, P0305, P0303. I was thinking that the PCM cannot monitor A/F ratio without the sensor so maybe the injector base pulse width was good enough. The misfire is are on bank 1, same as the bank 1 A/F sensor.
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We have a '99 Lexus RX300 with 174,000 miles (the engine has 130,000). The check engine light has been on for 2 years. The first mechanic found it was an O2 sensor and said that we didn't need to really do anything as long as the car was running good. So we didn't. Apparently a new code appears when running a diagnostic for the evap. sensor or vapor canister...is that right??? We had the evap sensor fixed..or so we thought and than tried to have the vapor canister worked on but the mechanic said the light came on.
Recently, the car has started lurching or losing power when it's warmed up and when it's accelerating. So, we took it to the Lexus dealership and 2 things were suggested
1) the vapor canister had been installed incorrectly and
2) sounds like the transmission is going.
So I have 2 questions, I think,
1) What is going on with the check engine light?
2) Does this sound like the transmission is going?
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 with 235,000 miles. I have been having a challenge with the "check engine" light coming on. I have taken it to a reputable mechanic several times. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, and the light went out. I had an emissions inspection, and the light came back on during the test, but it still passed, and the inspection report commented that there was a communication error, but no other problems. Every time the light comes on my mechanic puts his testing equipment on and finds no problems. I am trying to sell the car, but I am concerned that any potential buyer is going to look a the high miles and the check engine light and get scared off. The car is in great condition and looks like a very well taken care of car.
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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Having issues with door lock actuators going out? I wanted to make sure that the motors (Mabuchi) are still the same for the ES?
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I recently noticed the cover for my driver-side door lock seemed was loose and the door lock would move around a bit. Today, to my utter shock, I noticed the door lock cover was missing and it looks like I cannot see the door lock cylinder, worried that it is missing too!
Is it possible for the door lock cylinder to easily fall out of the door if the cover was loose?
I am hoping that the door lock cylinder is somehow physically connected to the door and wouldn't just fall out, perhaps it fell inside the door and I cannot see it. I haven't had a professional look at it yet, but if I am missing the door lock cylinder then I would need to purchase a new lock cylinder and have it cut to match my keys (huge spend, even with Sewell).
The images show what I am referring to, the dark image is an attempt to take a picture of the inside of the hole. The last image is a drawing of the door frame from Sewell with part numbers. Is there a chance the door lock cylinder is somewhere inside the door panel?
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I just bought a 2005 RX300. It has a DVD in the glove compartment, which is not originally from Lexus, connected with the navigation screen.
When I turn it on, it starts playing the disc. But I cant find how to activate it on the navigation screen. I don't get any audio as well.
Tried the MD1 button, but it plays my flash drive, which is also in the glove compartment. Also tried CD button in different ways.
I know it is individual depending on how they install these, but what to try? There is also an remote for the DVD, but also doesn't seem to do anything about getting the audio and video on the screen.
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