Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Warm Up Car In Driveway While Engine Running With Doors Locked?
Jan 14, 2013
I like to warm up the car in my driveway with the doors locked.My new 2013 rx 350 does not allow me to lock doors with engine running. Is there something i am missing?I want to lock doors with the engine running.
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I have a 2015 Somata ECO, while backing out of the drive the mailman came so I stopped (car running) closed the door went got the mail returned to the car and the doors automatically locked. This is not the first time this has happened, lucky I was at home and went inside to get the other key. What did I do wrong or how can i prevent this from happening again?
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This morning I went out to my RX450h in the garage and found the doors locked. I normally leave the fob in car in the door handle when parked in the garage and was surprised it was locked. Last night when I got home I did the usual...parked the car, got out of car leaving fob in handle. Did not lock car...just got out laving fob in car sitting all by itself on door handle. Came out this morning with all the doors locked and could not open until I went back in to get the spare. Once in the car I checked the fob and appeared to be functioning okay...meaning no signs of low battery. What caused this to happen?
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'98 Regal LS. The car was parked with the engine running, and the doors locked spontaneously. Starting then, noticed that the fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge were pegged out.
Short somewhere? Could a bad BCM cause this?
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Got out of car to open garage, car locked itself up with engine running. Had key fob in pocket. Nothing worked from fob. No unlock, open trunk, or sound horn.
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Came home after a run to mcdonalds in my chysler and the 1997 dodge caravan that we own was in driveway running with parking lights on the van doors locked.
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I like to stop for a morning coffee en route to work, about 2 minutes out of my driveway. I'd like to keep the engine running during that time to continue warming the cabin, so I have some chance of taking my gloves off at a traffic light rather than once I'm on the highway. It's about 90 seconds that makes all the difference.
However, only a fool would leave it running and unlocked, while running inside the store. The keyfob can't lock the doors like this (it's ignored while the hybrid system is on), so I use the hard-key once I'm outside. However, that's slow and fiddly, especially with gloves, especially unlocking it again when I come out with my purchase in my hands.
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Is there a way to step out and lock the doors with the engine still running?
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I was driving today and decided to test something that another elantra owner brought to my attention.
Doors are locked, I'm driving down the street and I pulled the handle to open my door. They open... As I'm driving... And I did not physically unlock my doors before pulling the handle.
I had my passenger try the back doors but they remained locked.
Is this usual for Hyundai or is there an extremely poor design flaw and safety hazard!
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My purse with my key was inside the car. I shut the door and walked in front of the car to the barn. And as I walked past the car it beeped twice. When I returned to the car minutes later, all of the doors were locked.
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I can't find an explanation for this but I dropped the car off to have windows tinted.
This AM I picked the car up and when I press the lock button, the doors DO lock but there is no longer a chime and the lights dont flash.
I've gone into settings and made sure that that setting is turned on and it appears fine but it still doesn't work like it did yesterday.
FWIW - the chime does sound for UNLOCK, just not lock.
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So I go to dinner last night and I come back to my car and my lights are still on. The car was locked as the side mirrors were retracted. I was eating dinner for at least 30-40 mins. The lights were on AUTO when I entered the vehicle.
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My 2015 is making a strange noise most noticeable when making a slight right turn up a driveway. It sounds like a spring popping.
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Today while getting gas, I found the car locked after I filled up. (2012 Rx 350) The key and fob were in my bag on the passenger seat. Luckily, the window was open, so I could reach in and unlock it. But I thought the car was not supposed to lock if the fob is inside...??
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Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
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I have a 2012 SE HB. Is there any way to have the remote lock and unlock the doors while the engine is running?
Also, my window lock button locks all of the window roll down buttons in the car except the driver side window button. It even locks the window buttons on the driver side door. Why in the world would it be useful to lock myself out of rolling down a window? Is there any way to fix this so that I can roll down the rear or passenger windows while they are locked for the kids in the back?
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I have a 2013 RX 350. Over the past few weeks I have taken the car to the car wash at night to get the salt off, the next morning when I get in and start the car put the car in drive the rear wheels are locked up, It appears the froze over night due to the extreme cold we have been having. I rock the car back and forth and eventually they release with a loud pop. I actually have a 10ft tire mark in my driveway. I have been told this is common on Toyotas. The car only has 10,000 miles on it and it only happens after being washed and sitting over night in very cold temps.
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
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I have a 2010 Gx460. The rear door has now become locked shut and will not unlock. When I hit the unlock button on the door all I get is flashers with a few beeps. What can I do?
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Winter is coming and I often leave the car running in the morning when stopping a few minutes to drop off the kids, etc. (otherwise it all fogs up and I need to wait a few minutes again before I can leave).
Issue is, when the santa fe engine is running, if I close the door, the car beeps for like 5 seconds, every time I close a door. (Close my door, beepppp, get the kid, beeeeeepppppp, get the bag, beeeepppppppppp) and then, I cant lock the doors so I have to leave the car unlocked after it has beeped 3x 5 seconds to alert anyone around that the doors are unlocked and that it's still running.
Hyundai is supposed to install my remote starter next week, which at least will fix the issue of being unable to leave the car running with the doors locked, but the beeping all the time is REALLY ANNOYING. I KNOW THAT MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING. Dealer is telling me they cant disable the beep.
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