Lexus RX 2010-15 :: USB Taking Long Time To Load / How To Pick Random Among All Albums
Oct 1, 2015
I use a thumb drive plugged into the UBS port. I have maybe 16gb of music on it. I have noticed that each time I turn on the ignition, it take FOREVER for the infotainment to load the thumb drive. How it can be resolved?
I had about 1 TB of music on a solid state portable hard drive and it would load right away in my Tundra. Also have the same 16gb stick in my aftermarket stereo in my 2001 Honda Civic beater car and it loads right away.
Also, how to pick random among all albums? Can't get that to work either.
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Noticing that my drivers seat is taking a long time to heat up. I usually warm up the car in the winter, and turn on the seat heater. The seat is still cold when I get in, and does not heat up until I go a few miles. Have to check and see if the passenger is doing the same thing.
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Finally finished rebuilding my 5R55W transmission and have it back in the 2002 Explorer. Reverse works good, Drive works great, but I am having problems with it wanting to take a long time shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Have to let up on the accelerator in order for it to go into 3rd.
Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.
Checked codes and am getting a "pending" P0745. Pressure Control Solenoid "A". What I need to start with?
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
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I have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
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My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
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I was going to post this in the technical forum, but going by the amount of replies, this forum seems to have much more traffic. Anyway, my car has random long crank issues. It usually happens when it is really cold or if the car has sat for a day or more. I will have to hold the key over for 5+ seconds, but as soon as I turn the key back and crank again, it fires right up.
I have replaced the battery and tested it and the alternator, replaced the CTS (green top), not that it's relevant, but I just replaced the thermostat, housing and all seals, no CEL. Any other things I can check?
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I've owned my passat 07 2.0t for 8 months now (less than 10k) and i've noticed a difference in performance.
I usually keep the car in D (instead of S) to save some gas. My car is taking an awful long time to accelerate, specially at the traffic lights. Much older cars and old drivers (grannys) pass me after the light turns to green (i'm always the last one to take off). The engine goes all to the way to 3k rpms making a loud noise (even with the windows up) as if it was @ redline. Eventually it catches up and the turbo kicks in and i can get a decent speed but it takes so much longer than before. I also noticed that while it's doing that i only get 5-6 mpg (according to the car's computer).
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Can I up load a photo to my Nav start up screen in my 2011 RX 350 ?
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My Radiator fell inside the car I tried to pick it back up but its hooked on something in the bottom and I can move it. Not even sure how are why it would fall. is there some kinda of bracket that holds in place or a bolt?
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Recently, my Prius has been randomly giving me the single, long warning beep when I try to lock it by touching the handle. The car is definitely not still on, and the key is in my pocket when it happens. I've checked the doors, and none are ajar. It's not 100% consistent, but happens about 50-75% of the time. When it happens, I can lock the car with the key or keyfob - but touching the handle just gets me the long beep and no lock.
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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i have noticed ever since i got my 15 rx that on hot days when i get in, and start it up. there is a pretty long delay before the a/c starts blowing? kinda stinks when its hot out and the inside of the car is even hotter? all i know for sure is my 01, and 05`s used to come on almost instantly, so just curious if this is just the way its supposed to be on the 15.
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Power hatch stop working? I get a long beep and nothing. Won't open or close, it has to be done manually. My next oil change is in 1-2 months so I was going to have it looked at then by Lexus under warranty. Nothing seems stuck in the latch.
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So the traffic appearance via the HD Data Services network seems to be random. There are times I get it and on the way back it will not appear. I live in south west CT which they claim is full coverage. It is really random and there does not be anyway to see if it is a single strength problem or not. The only indicator is on the NAV screen with the HD)) system in the upper left corner.
I realize I can force it through my cell phone, but why use up my data plan for it when supported in my current area.
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I have a 2010 RX350 that has an intermittent chirp sound when driving. It's on the left side around the front driver's side. The dealer believes it's coming from the suspension (everything has been checked and is fine - all the bushings lubed and bolts tightened). But I believe it's coming from the inside (maybe the dash?). It's a random chirp that happens when you drive over rough roads/bumps, but not always.
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I would like to post this performance issue on my 2003 GX470_79Kmiles which happened on the freeway yesterday. The sequence:
1) During start and at idle/stationary, the rpm shoot to 1100rpm and stayed there for a while, i would think that it was normal since the engine was still cold.
2) Drove to the freeway, I noticed that speed is very slow to pick up. My normal driving experience was that at close/equal to 2000rpm, the speed usually at around 70-75mph. But there was a considerable reduction of speed at around 60mph at almost more than 2000rpm, plus a buzzing engine noise. I tried to really rev-up the engine but very sluggish to pick up the speed not even close to 70mph.
3) Drove the car to lexus shop this morning, top speed of 60 to 65mph and tried to rev it up to plus 2000rpm to pick up speed, but the engine noise is very abnormal.
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After changing the timing belt and water pump I want to change the coolant. Stupid to have no temp gauge so I got a scan tool connected. Been idling 20 minutes and it hasn't gone above 189 degrees. Assume it has a 195 degree thermostat. I put fresh water in the radiator but still don't see it mixing with coolant in the block as if the thermostat has opened.
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Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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