Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Towing 1000-1500 Lbs?
Jul 19, 2014
I know the towing capacity of a 2014 RX with tow package is 3500lbs. Im curious to know would I be Able to actually tow , 1500 lbs 2 motorcycles plus small trailer safely and efficiently without causing damage to the vehicle?
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2015 IS350 AWD ... Lately I have noticed on a cold start that when my idle is between 1000-1500 rpms, there is a slight buzzing/humming noise. It goes away if I rev the rpms past 2000 rpms and also when it drops under 1000 rpms. It's almost like a droning noise. I can hear it inside and outside the vehicle when the rpms are in that range. I feel like the noise is made at a certain frequency and it causes a vibration to occur.
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I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
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I've got a V8 with about 250 miles - I took delivery last Saturday. I'm hearing a groan in the exhaust between 1000 and 1500 rpm.
It sounds (and feels) like it's coming from the underbody beneath the center console/arm rest. I can feel the vibration in the gas/brake pedals and the driver's seat. It doesn't seem to matter what speed or gear I'm in... even Neutral. Definitely related to engine rpms as it happens while downshifting as well.
I haven't looked under a T-reg lately. What is under that area... is there a resonator in the exhaust? It almost sounds like a loose brush shield or maybe a bad baffle somewhere.
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I just took delivery of a 2015 pewter gray base azera. It is my second one as I purchased a leftover 2013 last year. The sonatas had to go just not comfortable enough for me. Between 1000-1500 rpm whether in motion or in park I get a sound like an owl hooting. my 2013 does not do it.i can make it do it any time I want. This is really annoying in traffic it actually can be heard with the radio on. the dealer said it is normal and let me drive another new one on a test drive and it does it too. Almost sounds like it could be a harmonic noise in the intake or exhaust. Going to see if I can pinpoint it this weekend. I am very disappointed as my 2013 has 36k on it and other than the rattle at start up no issues.
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It's winter here and as my car warms up it starts to tick. It doesn't happen right away, only as the car warms up and it gets progressively louder until a certain point at which point it seems to stop (or has faded significantly). It primarily happens in idle and in gear but will go away after revving above a certain point (around 1500-2000rpm). If I put it in neutral the noise is greatly reduced or disappears completely unless I rev it from about 1000rpm-1500rpm. Once the car reaches operating temperature the noise is gone. What it could be? The sound appears to be coming from the top of the entire. Also, it doesnt seem to do this when its warm outside. I have a 2011 sonata GLS and I change the oil every 3000 miles. I use either Bosch filters or OEM filters so I know the filter has nothing to do with the ticking.
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So got out of my car this afternoon, dropped something, and saw this for the first time since I bought the car three months ago. What it is that reduced the towing capacity?
In reading it closer, I guess it is 'carrying capacity' that has been reduced, not towing.
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I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
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I'I have a 2010 Ranger sport 4x4 that I use to tow a popup camper. IT does the job well and still gets about 16mpg towing! My problem is the ridiculously tall reverse gear in this thing that is making my clutch very sad. When backing my camper into my driveway I have to slip the clutch pretty bad.
I would like to be able to disconnect the front axle actuator somehow and use the low range in 2wd for backing up into my driveway.
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I just notice this behavior of my car recently (09 GS350 AWD). It usually happen in the morning when the engine still cold (Ohio winter weather 22-35 degrees in the morning). I noticed that when I let go of the gas paddle, my rpm needle dropped to about 1000 rpm and then immediately bounce back up. Is this normal??? I haven't notice this behavior after the engine get warm up. I was driving in normal mode.
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My owners manual for my 2010 Prius says speeds over 85mph can result in severe engine damage. It also states you should not pull any type of trailer, but I have seen a few Prius's with trailer hitches but I would not try it.
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I am beginning the process of setting up my gx for towing. It is a 2004 with KDSS. I have all the front two relays and wiring harness, but I have run into a problem with the rear towing relay- the relay that goes near the driver side rear tail light. I purchased what I thought was the proper relay part number 81985-60021. The problem is that the relay does not appear to be the proper fit for what I think is the plug that it belongs to. I have supplied a pic of the relay end and the plastic white thing that the plug in the back of the vehicle was plugged into. They are obviously not the same, but there is nothing else in the area that the relay would plug into.
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Have owned a 2014 LS460 since April. Ever since then, when accelerating decelerating between 1000 and 3000 rpm, we hear a whining and grinding noise.
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The car does not come with towing package. Bought and installed 3 relays; 2 under the hood, one in the back. I connected hard wired TOW READY 20137 to the trucks' wiring system, checked voltage, nothing. Checked relays under the hood and and the back by the rear light, I could hear the clicking from them. Do I need to connect under dash brake controller too in order the wiring to active the wiring system ? Why this is happening
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As odd as it may sound, our Prius salesman told us we should not use the cruise control on our 2010 Prius II for the first 1500 miles. We could not find any such warning in the manual. Did we just misunderstand or was the salesman correct?
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So my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
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I have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
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I own a is350 been having this problem. I drive the car get home put it in park and rps go to 1500 and stay there feels like my idle stays high...
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I have a 2010 Dodge RAM Hemi Laredo pickup. Love it. Currently 34k miles. Have kept up with all maintenance. Since about 3k miles, I have intermittently heard a "grinding" noise at about 1400-1500 rpm. Usually while accelerating going up hill/inclines. Assumed it had to do with automatic gear shifting. Have reported this to dealer maintenance folks at each visit. They have reportedly not been able to identify the source, as they claim they do not hear it, despites numerous test drives. Everyone who drives with me has heard it!. I am concerned, as at 36k my full coverage for the transmission warranty expires. Incidentally, at 33,100 miles 2 broken studs were extracted from right exhaust manifold. A new exhaust manifold gasket and 2 new studs were replaced for a different niose. Are these related, or any clue about the "grinding" that I still frequently hear at 1400-1500 rpms?
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I just bought my first Lexus, picked up a 2008 GX 470 with only 35k miles!
I just had the TSB for the "Clunk" issue fixed and I had a tire sensor that was leaking and had that fixed.
The ONLY other issue I am having is that there is a vibration at between 1250-2000 RPM and it's most prevalent at 1500 RPM, but it is gone above 2000 RPM. This happens while in park and hitting the accelerator to get to those RPM and it happens in all gears while driving, which is especially annoying because the SUV typically is sitting right at 1500 RPM while driving.
The Lexus dealer thought the driveshaft TSB would take care of the vibration, but it didn't.
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I have a 2003 lexus gx and every time I am driving around 1,500 rpms it has a vibration and it feels like its coming from the transmission.
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