Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Poor Downshift In Cold - Is This Normal
Feb 26, 2015
Since the outside temperatures fell to teens and sometimes into single digits, I noted that my RX has developed something I do not remember from the past two winters: in the morning, the RX has poor downshift quality - when I start driving it upshifts just fine, but when I need to slow down it "feels" like the transmission wants to stay in higher gear, that is it downshifts but later than I would expect and I can feel the downshift as well. After driving for 2-3 min. the problem disappears. I always warm up my RX for at least two minutes or to the point when the tach reading is <1K rpm
I called the dealer and the SA told me that in cold weather I should warm it up "for at least 15 to 20 minutes, if you don't you may damage your transmission". When I told him that idling the engine does not warm the transmission because the insides of the transmission do not move, he replied "It's true but the pump is working and the fluid is moving."
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I have been a long time Lexus owner (ES and 3 RXs), but I am new to the GX. I just got a 2014 GX-40 w/ Premium Package.
The GX has a lot of the same features my previous RXs had, but of course has some improvements (smoother ride, quieter, better stereo sound, real 4WD).
1) The RX had a console that had the USB connection in it. I found it very handy to just leave my iPod plugged in there. I just had to switch the Source in the radio whenever wanted to listen to it. Since it was in the console, it was out of sight from thieves. On the GX, my iPod won't fit in the small area where the USB ports are. I don't know if an iPod touch would even fit, and they have much less music storage anyway.
2) The GX obviously weighs more than the RX, and it has a V8 engine. Some portions of the power band in the GX seem to be peppier, but overall, the GX feels a little more sluggish. Sometimes I manually downshift the transmission to pass a vehicle, etc. Are there any other alternatives?
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Going up hills, I noted the eco lite remained lit during the downshift mandated by cruise control to maintain preset speed. However, during ascent with cruise control off, and slight decrease speed (no downshift) the eco light will go off. Kinda counter intuitive, that slowing down during ascent would be less economical than maintaining set speed during climb.
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ES300h, 17" rims, Dunlop SP Sports, and I'm getting a lumpy and uncomfortable ride first thing in the morning. Outside temps are 10C or lower and tire pressure is 210 kPa or 30 psi, although the tires warm up to 230 kPa or 33 psi after a few minutes.
Is it normal for all season tires to feel lumpy when cold? I don't want to pump it up higher because the tires would probably hit 36 psi when warm.
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I recently just purchased a 2011 Lexus RX350 AWD... I would like to ask on the downshift while slowdown the car.... Every once in a while I feel the tranny down shift while slowing down... It's not harsh or anything, but just enough to have a slight feel. Like a backlash? Is this normal? I also have 09 GS350 AWD.. It's so smooth that I can't feel the downshift at all...
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I finally purchased an RX30 for my wife. The Halogen headlight isn't all that bad, but I am used to drive with HID. Therefore, I am buying HID kits for my RX350 Headlight. Whenever it is shipped to me, I will take pictures of the progress.
1/ Link to buy HID kits, OEM is 55W (no need for extra Hardnes) and 6000k is common factory color.
This will come with everything needed to convert your light bulbs into HID white colors. For more Colors please check out the guide on the website.
I recommend this site, because I have used it, purchased it, and have had no problem with it so far.
2/ According to Manual Book
****Low Beam is H11****
Fog Lights is *****H11*****
****High Beam is H9*****
**** 55W *****
3/ The installation should be Relatively Easy
--Take off engine plastic cover on both side--
--Access the Light Bulb--
--Use the OEM Plugs into the Ballasts input of the HID KID--
--Mount the Ballasts at a convenience locations, I had great success with Plastic ties--
--There is a Plugs output from the Ballast, Plug it into the HID Bulbs--
*****If the lights don't turn on after installation, try to switch Polary, or turn the original plugs around
****** Halogen doesn't care about Polary, but HID Ballast does.
--Install the HID Bulbs the same as regular Halogen Bulb--
--Check the HID carefully, make sure that both will work--
First time Installer common trouble shoots.
1/ Only 1 light is working......Switching the bulbs, or Polary will solve your problem
2/ Lights common for a short time then turn off, until engine restart......You will need the Hardness Relay, which should not occur in our car. The factory hardness is good for 55W
3/ Bulb Visually contain Contaminants, or White particle inside.......HID Bulbs has Special Salt in it, which is required for a longer life in the Bulbs. This is the way the bulbs are.
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In cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
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I have a 03 explorer 4.6 at cold start-up it wants to stall and it idles very bad just for maybe 5-6 seconds and then the idle picks up and it's fine. This only happens on cold start-ups, if I drive it and restart it's fine.
This started when I replaced the two front (up-stream) O2 sensors, I didn't need to change them just have 150,000+ mile and was trying to do something to get better mpg.
Do We should disconnect and reconnect the battery after replacing the O2 sensors on an 03? Reset the computer?
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I own a 2000 Jetta VR6 5 speed. Car has over 300,xxxkm on it, with documented maintenance including chains within the past 12k. Car has intake, 2.5" resonated exhaust, stock software.
I have recently noticed that the car has a cold start issue. Its winter here in Canada, so in the morning when i go to start the car and let it warm up for a couple minutes, the idle is choppy at first and then evens out at around 900-1k rpm. If i try to blip the throttle, or even hold it (half way or WOT) the car just wants to bog out, EXTREMELY rough idle. It will eventually, after about 2 mins of idling, go away and i can drive.
I have absolutely no issue with allowing the car to idle for a few mins to warm up, but i know for a fact that whether a car is cold or not, it should be able to rev freely.
I also have horrible fuel milage. I use 91 octane, and average about 250-300km per tank. 70% city 30% hwy driving.
The following parts have been replaced in the past 1200 to try and resolve the issue
OE Mass air flow sensor
OE spark plugs
BREMI wires
OE Bosch front O2 sensor
I have scanned the car several times, which led me to change the parts i did. Only had a CEL once and it was for the front O2 sensor which i just replaced. Any other codes were for random multiple and a cat efficiency fault. Again those were fault found off a GFF test done at VW, they were not enough to trigger a CEL, but i still changed the parts.
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My 2010, 4 cyl. auto started giving me hard downshifts awhile ago, when cold. Mainly going from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2. I had the tranny fluid changed a few months ago at 56,000 miles, but no difference. So, that left me with the dealer and this is their diagnosis:
Updated ECM and TCM and hard shift still present. Vehicle will require new PCM (TCM?) to resolve problem.
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My car also had the hard downshift when engine was cold and under 30mph. I seen where Sbr 711 had posted the TSB 10-AT-007-1
I printed this and took to the local dealer & also showed where it was mentioned as a recall.. The advisor looked up on his computer and showed no recalls for the 09 sonata?
I went ahead and scheduled the reprogram update and was told the technician can pull up more info on recalls than the advisor can? Any way they did the reprogram today and $89. later still no recall? How do I prove that in fact this is a recall & get refunded?
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My 09' has developed the abrupt downshift issue at 20 mph when cold. Once the transmission is warmed up, the problem goes away. There is a Service Bulletin on this problem so it is known and a fix is in place. The fix according to the Service Instruction is to remap the transmission software.
How this remap affected their vehicle. My car has been returning great gas mileage, and I am concerned that this fix could hurt that. If mileage is adversely affected, I'd rather live with the downshift IF it won't hurt anything.
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I just bought a 2009 Hyunda Sonata, 4 cylinder limited edition with 82k miles on it about a month ago. It was maintained to the suggested maintenance schedule by Hyundai dealers prior to me owning it.
after about 2 weeks, it started having issues when slowing down. I narrowed it down to being a harsh downshift from 4th to 3rd when breaking when cold. After driving for 10 minutes it doesn't do it anymore.
My temporary fix is to manually downshift it into 3rd when I have to slow down. It seems to be that it stays in 4th too long and shifts late into 3rd, but I wouldn't think downshifting late would really matter.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana minivan. I get a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st only when the engine is cold - especially noticeable in cold weather. After a mile or so of driving (or a few minutes of idling) is shifts fine. All upshifts are fine all the time. The tranny fluid level is fine and is in good condition. What it could be?
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I have had my 2011 Prius for about half a year. Lately, I noticed a louder than normal AC compressor. It is very loud, and I have driven it in hot weather before so I think I know what it normally sounds like.
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We are traveling and the 05 gx isn't doing so well. It has a bad hesitation and speed and getting really bad mpg. Like 14 mpg on highway. Cel is on but the only code is o2 sensor. Bank 2 sensor 1. Would that really cause this big of an issue?
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Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
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The sulfur smell is due to poor exhaust design. The muffler outlets are not extended far enough out to dispense exuast from under the vehicle. I will be trying pipe extensions ... 2008 LS460 38,000 Mi...
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RX 350 (mine is 2013) produce a slight bump in revs as you decelerate moderately going from 2nd gear to 1st? It goes away after the tranny is warmed up. Wondering if it's just a result of the cold weather.
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I had a garage connect a computer to my 2013 rx350. It reported AC problem. It does not say what is wrong with it. What that actually checks on the AC ? I don't get cold air so I bought an AC kit to try and recharge it.
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My wife has a 2010 RX-350 which had to have the transmission replaced a few weeks ago. She has run into an issue when it's cold that the car seems to be stuck in neutral as she applies the gas and it just creeps. This most recent time, the "Check Engine" light came on the message "Check AWD" on the dash. Lexus says they can't find anything wrong except slightly low Transmission Fluid.
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