Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Noticeable Sound Between 30 And 40 Mph
Sep 27, 2013
I've been trying to trace a whirring sound since purchasing my 2010 RX350 this summer. I've tried two sets of Michelin tires, Primacy and Latitude HP, which I thought was the source of my sound.
But what are the chances of two sets of tires making the exact same sound
The sound is most noticeable between 30 and 40 mph on smooth roads and is like a "playing card against bicycle spokes' only much softer (if you are old enough to remember that).
Currently I'm thinking gear mesh noise from the front transfer case or maybe there is a sensor for the anti-lock brakes or traction control that reads a toothed 'gear' for measuring tire speeds that may be mis-adjusted.
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So ever since I got my RC 350 my transmission wind has been particularly noticeable. I got the luxury package btw. Wondering if this is normal or if I should contact the dealer about it.
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I have a new 2014 RX350, and around the 500 mile mark I began hearing a faint static/buzzing noise that is definitely noticeable when it is very cold outside. It seems to be related to the braking system (i.e. when you press and release the brake pedal), but I have heard it when I'm just driving and not touching the brake pedal. It almost sounds like the car's electronics are going through a self-check, but it is audible. Took my RX to the dealer and they said that the noise is "normal" and that all third generation RX's have that noise - something to do with the brake pedal modulation? All I know is that it is annoying, especially when everything else is so quiet when you drive without the radio on and the fan speed turned down. Definitely disappointing in any car but especially a Lexus.
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2003 xle v6 auto... 105,000 approx... Seems to be developing a noise, which I hope is not the transaxle. It is a bit like a "whine" or "growling" sound, can't quite place it. Driving around at slower speeds with windows open, cannot really hear anything.
Up at 50 MPH or more it is noticeable and, unfortunately, seems to be getting louder. Does not seem to vary with speed. Don't think it is some weird wind noise.
I did do the poor man's trans flush about 6 months ago (drain pan, fill + 1 quart, disconnect hose, run a quart out, add quart, repeat until clean comes out) and it has been happy. Also did timing belt/idlers/wp a couple months ago. Did not see a way to change the diff. Seem to be a drain, but no fill, so I left it.
My suspects are - wheel bearing(s), cv/axle, transaxle. oh, tires, I guess.
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I have 124,000 miles on my 2002 subaru impreza outback sport and this car runs very well and has been maintained well however the last couple weeks I have noticed a slight rattling sound toward the right front side of the car almost as if there were pebbles inside the wheel covers when the car is driven at low speed and I begin to accelerate. It also sounds as if the rattling could also be coming from the exhaust also as if it were loose fitting but the tailpipe is on the left looking from the rear of the car. Another possibility I thought of was the fender was loose or the tire was rubbing against the wheel well or something. It is one of those small annoying sounds that does not seem to warrant bringing in to a mechanic yet but I am curious about what that is.
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I have the '03 Lincoln Aviator 4.6 DOHC. It has a noticeable knock/ping/chatter and somewhat sluggish acceleration. I notice the pcv hose was collapsed and shredded. I replaced the hose and valve, didn't change idle or acceleration and I still hear the hissing noise in the same region. I unplugged the egr valve and started the truck, the idle was the same as before I unplugged the valve. could a bad egr valve give a vacuum leak that is hard to detect? I tried testing for leaks by squirting starter fluid near the suspect areas, and I couldn't detect anything. Could a bad pcv valve be caused by a bad egr valve and/or vise versa?
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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I have a chirping/ squeaking sound in the engine extremely noticeable on idle. It's not the actual belt because it continues the noise much after the car is heated up. Have no clue what it is, I have 145000 miles. Also when running the engine hard notice a hissing sound sort of like turbo at high rpms especially with ac on high.
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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I have a 2014 Superduty with 41000 km on it. I was driving in a remote area yesterday about 53 km from pavement. I stopped for a break and had a very noticeable knocking sound that was more noticeable on the drivers side towards the back of the engine. I had no choice but to keep driving it. the truck ran perfectly fine for the 4 hour trip home(1 hour on gravel and 3 hours on highway) when I stopped a couple of times after that there was definitely no knocking sound an it is not there today, what this could have been? like I said the knocking was so noticeable that you couldn't miss it...
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I always apply my parking brake whether im parked on an incline or not. Sometimes if I disengage the parking brake, and set my car in Drive on a flat surface, my car does not advance (I'm not pressing the gas). This tells me that my parking brake is sticking! If I apply the gas slowly, I hear the brakes "clunk" off and I finally get going.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I have a clunking sound coming from the back end. It is most noticeable at lower speeds going over bumps. I can also make the clunk happen by grabbing the top of the right rear tire and rocking it. I can feel something moving while I am doing this, but I can't pinpoint it. The bushings seem to be in good condition. The left rear wheel bearing was replaced recently. I also have an intermittent brake pulsation which feels like a warped rotor. I don't think it is actually the rotor, because it doesn't happen every time I apply the brakes. I believe that these two things are related. Is it possible for the rear struts to cause these issues?
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My mother owns 2011 Rx350. She bought it used few month ago. Car's great for what it is and makes me feel relieved to think my mother's driving a car that is quite safe and reliable.
That being said, the car's audio have created some problem recently. How it happened other than my mother's assumption that her water spill at the trunk may have caused the problem. She don't know how much water was spilled and not even sure if that is exact reason. (It's about that time frame that audio started having problem, hence the assumption)
So, the problem is that the sound only comes out from the front speakers. I am not sure how many speaker there are at the front, but it is as if fader is set to front all the way. If I move the fader to rear, it kills the sound from the front and since there is no sound at the rear, it just dies out as soon as fader moves all the way to the rear. So with the fader and balance at the center, sound is only at the front and plus there is no bass sound also, assuming subwoofer (if any) is at the back and not working also.
My mother claims that it comes back to normal sometimes but I am not sure how often that is since I do not drive that car too often and I just found out the problem today.
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I have an issue with my 2011 350 that is quite perplexing. I get an intermittent sound... best I can describe it is like a metallic vacuum sound that seems to come from the right rear of the car. There is no pattern to when it arises... comes and goes. I've been to the dealership with it 3 times and of course it did not occur. They must think I am hallucinating. I thought it might be an exhaust problem.
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I did some searching, and it seems the only way to eliminate the rattle from the rear tonneau cover is to remove it completely? I use mine all the time, so I don't want to remove it, but the flap seems to make noise over most bumps. Any way to eliminate the sounds that it makes over bumps?
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I purchased my 2014 GX a couple of months ago and already logged in about 2K. The car has been great so far. The only thing that I'm not so used to, is a strange feeling when accelerating or going uphill (even slightly) - I can feel the engine roar(?) through the steering wheel - I can't really describe it well - it's not a vibration per se, but more like you feel the engine working harder than usual through the slight vibration of the steering wheel. This is my first V8 car - I used to have a V6 Acura MDX before, and never felt that. There is a good chance this is normal for a V8 based truck, but I wanted to get others' input.
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I bought my RX350 last month and sometimes I notice a strange buzzing sound coming from the car while the engine is off. This noise can come at anytime and usually hours after I have turned off my car. It's difficult to isolate where it's coming from and can last just a few minutes.
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Every once in a while when I'm heading into the garage, slightly moving up over the edge from the driveway, the power goes away and there is this clicking sound. What's the deal?
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Finally got the Tech to acknowledge the Humming/Groaning from the Engine as I sat behind the wheel at my 5000 mile service visit. His response was that the sound we were hearing ( at start-up) was "NORMAL"
The RX drives and sounds fine after that mileage, but many times my destination is less, and I feel like I am driving a reject.This has persisted since new, @ frigid and high temps; as we approach 7500 miles.
Engine sound varies in pitch when acceleration increases the RPM's ?
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I have been noticing a squealing sound that I believe is coming from the rear brakes. I only hear this when I back up form the garage and apply the brakes. This happens mostly when the weather is cold, and only when I first back from the garage. This sound can be loud at times. Took it to two different dealers, but they could not hear anything. Of course this only happens when I first drive the car, so no wonder they can not hear it. I have been reading about it, and it seems many people have had the same problem. Some say it is the brake pads, the rotor, etc., 2013 RX 350...
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