Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Nav Displays In Seconds Then Immediately Reverted To The Minutes
May 12, 2014
On last trip in '13 RX350, I changed the Nav display from hours and minutes to destination to "Arrival Time." It showed the arrival time for about 30 seconds and then immediately reverted to the minutes enroute to my destination. I changed it at least a dozen times but each time it reverted to the minutes left in my trip.
Since I'm 200 miles from the nearest Lexus dealer, I can't just drop by and have them check this out.
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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I just got a myTouch 4G from T-Mobile and although it connects though Bluetooth, it immediately disconnects after a few seconds. My old cell phone connected just fine.
T-Mobile blames Volvo. Where do you think the problem lies? I'm guessing the 4G phone has new features related to Bluetooth so perhaps the car's Bluetooth software needs updating? You'd think the new phone would be backward compatible but oh well.
My XC60's Bluetooth version is 5.00.17L. Looking at the Volvo's Bluetooth page, the compatibility test dates are mostly October 2010 so it seems the vehicle's Bluetooth may need an update (the myTouch 4G won't connect to a 2011 Audi Q5 either). [URL] .....
I sent an email to Volvo customer service asking them to do a Bluetooth software update that supports new 4G phones (if that's the problem).
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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I've just bought a used 2002 Explorer Sport Trac (Automatic) 120k+ odo and what I've noticed whenever I shift from Park to Reverse or to Drive it takes about 3 seconds before I feel a slight jerk moving forward before I can step on the accelerator for the vehicle to move backwards or forwards but if I step on the accelerator right after shifting to any gear except Neutral it won't run immediately as if the clutch is disengaged and after about 3 seconds it will suddenly engage. Is this normal or is there something wrong with the transmission?
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I purchased a second set of rims and tire pressure sensors from the Tire Rack for snow tires on my 460. Since installation, the tire pressure display on the dash only displays the pressure reading by wheel if I stand still long enough before driving. If I do not wait long enough before driving, the pressure will not be displayed and will ultimately display the tire warning symbol. My first thought is the Tire Rack sold me the wrong sensors, but they insist the Pacific 315 MHZ sensor they sold me is the same as Lexus uses.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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Does your tire inflation psi reading ever randomly display dashes (-----) for a brief minute or so when first starting the engine before actually displaying the psi reading? I've had this happen a couple of times for no apparent reason that would prevent normal TPMS signal operation, but within a minute the dashes are replaced with the actual psi reading. I'm just wondering if this is a somewhat normal event to have happen from time-to-time.
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I just recently purchased a 2011 RX 350 AWD SFP w/ ebony interior for the wife. She loves the car and it drives like a dream.
However lately there's been a weird single beep that occurs every 15 minutes or so. I've tried replacing the key fob battery, making sure no interior/exterior lights are on, and making sure all doors/sunroof are closed. I tried locking the door to see if it works as well but no dice. It doesn't affect anything in anyway as everything is operating as it should.
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Haven't been on here for a while. My f250 AC vacuum pump is out. This means the AC being reverted to blowing out the defrost. I have found the defrost/vent vacuum solenoid and zip-tied it open for a vents-only experience. I just realized, without the vacuum pump, there is really no way of determining if it is on recirculate or fresh air. I wish for the recirculate so I don't get someone else's or my own exhaust in the cab. Does the system stay on recirculate without vacuum power? if not what actuator must I zip-tie next?
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I'm occasionally having a scary issue with my '13 RC450h. There are a couple of parking lots where the transition from the parking lot to the road is not particularly smooth and the speed of the other cars on the road require that you get up to 50mph pretty quickly.
When I hit the gas then hit the bumps in the transition, the TRAC light turns on and power to the wheels is lost for a couple of seconds (exactly the opposite of what I want to happen). Is this happening to other people or is this something that needs to be looked at? Is this just a result of traction control and I need to remember to turn it off when leaving a parking lot and entering a busy road?
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I have an intermittent start-up problem with my 2001 BMW Z-3, 3.0: cylinder 1 misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a few minutes under certain conditions. The misfire conditions are consistent:A)OBDII code P0313 (misfire detected with low fuel) or code PO1343 (cylinder 1 misfire with fuel cutoff). Both OBDII codes equate to BMW fault code 238.B)after winter storage it misfires on start–up for 5-10 minutes (I’ve always added a fuel stabilizer before winter storage);C)after a spike in humidity it misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a minute after a rain storm or;D)If I don’t run the car for a 3-5 days (always stored in a garage) it misfires for a few seconds (just long enough to turn on the “check engine” light).
Otherwise, the car runs flawlessly –plenty of power – smooth as silk - no hesitation, but with the bloody check engine light on 50% of the time.In lieu of black tape over the check engine indicator, I’ve taken the car alternately to both Minneapolis BMW dealers over the years (once if not twice a year), but the intermittent nature of the misfire and the fact that I store the car 5 months the a year has made it difficult to pin down the exact “root cause” of the problem. The dealership mechanics have swapped and/or replaced the cylinder 1 fuel injector, spark plug, cylinder coil and cable, kept it overnight and for days. The last dealership diagnosis was a defective cylinder 1 exhaust valve that could only be fixed with valve job! Yes, that’s right, pull the head and do a complete valve job - on all six cylinders. What am I missing here? What about the infamous BMW VANOS valve control system?
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My 1999 Grand Prix GT has been having problems. Here's what it does:
*Turn the key, it cranks but wont turn over.
*Turn the key, it will turn over but dies immediately.
*Turn they key, it will idle smoothly for a few seconds - minutes and eventually die.
So far I have replaced my Fuel pump and filter.
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Minor noise, and it might be normal. When I have my air on, I get a sudden hissing noise for about 2 seconds, and it happens once every 5 min or so, almost to the second. Not that loud. like a blow-off valve noise, almost. Sounds like it's coming from the passenger dash area. No other ill affects that I've noticed. Not to be confused with the popular wind/intake whistle that some have. Any theories? Almost sounds like a drop of water landing on a belt, and spinning dry. But it happens on dry days too, I think.
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I've tried searching the threads to see if there is a similar problem, but it appears I have not found anything like this.
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I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra SE with only 3880 miles on it. I purchased it new last March. I have noticed when the car is cold when I shift from Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive, the transmission does not always engage immediately. It takes a second or so (not much over a second, but I haven't timed it). The car shifts smooth without any other issues. I have not noticed this concern when the car is warmed up, or seen this when shifting into reverse.
Should I be concerned about this shifting behavior? I have not contacted the dealership yet.
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I have a 2013 Prius Three. If I drive somewhere (engine completely warm) and stop, like at a store, come back 5-10 mins later, hit the power button, sometimes the ICE will start and immediately shut off, like within 1 second. It can't be the warm up cycle as the ICE is at normal operating temperature. I guess it is not a issue, as one of the 20 computers is doing this and there are no lights(like cel).
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I have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
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Problem with my GS450h 2008 70000km. Some time (in winter time) at morning, when I am trying to switch on my gs450h, I press ON button, then i see READY sign and engine starts for 1-1,5 sec then immediately engine goes off and no READY sign. After restart (switch ON again) i have normal start. Sometimes is see CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM after such situation. Diagnostics show P0617 error. sometimes i have C1242 error and CHECK ABS sign.
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I've went onto TIS and received some info in regards to the electrical components of 2002 sc430.
Fuse 19 on Passenger Box: Interior light, personal lights, vanity lights, foot lights, ignition switch light, trunk light, antenna, garage door opener system audio system.
Each time I install a new fuse, it immediately pops. Wondering how to diagnose root cause. Often it seems that wires ran through door grommet can become exposed....I have done no modifications to the vehicle. Not sure if there is a particular area I should start looking for exposed wires, I have a feeling it is going to be a long process with my skill level to find the short.
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When opening Power Rear Door , the door will open then immediately close . After going through this initial opening, the second attempt will open properly & close only when Power Door Button is depressed. Recently had some engine work done by Dealer & wondering if door settings may have been disturbed. 2005 RX330
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