Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Fans Not Working When Car At Idle
Nov 1, 2013
I have lexus RX350 2010. when i start the engine both fans are not working.
But when i turn the A/C on both fan start working. IS THIS NORMAL ?
I have lexus RX350 2010. when i start the engine both fans are not working.
But when i turn the A/C on both fan start working. IS THIS NORMAL ?
how common a problem it seems to be that our fans just stop working. Replacing those later this week.
My question is concerning my AC not working. Is it possible that, since the two fans won't work at all, the AC system won't engage? Or do I have two completely unrelated problems?
Few issues I am having with my 2004 Hyundai Accent GL Automatic 1.6 with 150k.
The first issue is the idle speed. The car idles between 1500 and 1800 RPM no matter if you just start it or if you drive it 200 miles. I have replaced the IAC valve, and that didn't change anything. I cant seem to find any vacuum leaks.
The second issue I am having is that the engine cooling fans do not come on when it gets up to temp.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and that didn't seem to work. I also tried swapping the relays, but nothing happened so I just pulled the relay for the cooling fan and ran a jumper wire so the fans run all the time while the car is running. It keeps the car cool, and I can drive it, but I want it to work right.
The third issue is that the car sometimes bogs out when you are pulling out or in traffic with the AC on. It almost sputters and hesitates when you try to go. It runs great at highway speeds. Could these issues all be tied together maybe the same problem?
I have a problem I can't seem to figure out. My car has a misfire at idle. It has stumbled every once in a while at idle before while at Red lights. Now it does it all the time. Check engine light is on and I got 5 codes. P0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0340, and p0012. The last two are for cam position sensor. I took it outo and looked at it. Looks fine. I reinstalled it and hand cranked the motor with a meter hooked up and I am reading about 10 volts when it senses the metal ring going around. So I think that is good. I sprayed brake cleaner on all the hoses to see if the motor reved to hopefully find a vacuum leak. Nothing. I also noticed today that my cooling fans or my ac don't work. Now I have another issue to deal with. I checked all my plugs and wiring and coils also.
View 1 RepliesSo I just got a 2002 1.8t, everything was fine until the fans and ac stopped working. After poking around the forums a bit I changed the following:
1. Fan Control Module. Result: nothing
2. Radiator Cooling Fan Switch Temperature Sensor. Result: nothing.
all fan components have the correct voltage going to them. Fuse 16 for the AC clutch is not blown and has power going to it. The AC compressor has power going to it. The fuses on the battery box have power going to them specifically S180.
My question is what am I missing? is it possible that the fans themselves could be bad? car is not overheating, the after run coolant pump kicks on. But the AC clutch is not spinning nor are the fans. btw AC clutch is not seized up.
1999.5 golf afp engine cooling fans not working at all. fter run coolant pump also does not seem to be working. fcm changed still no luck fans do work when jumped straight to battery.
View 1 RepliesI have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
View 13 RepliesCooling Fans and a/c compressor not working-2000 Grand Prix. They both work when I jumper them. Replaced coolant temperature sensor, checked fuses and relays -all good. Not sure what to troubleshoot from here.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
View 7 RepliesA few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
View 1 RepliesSo with the car cold or hot . I turn the ac on and the motor rpm drops quickly and compressor kicks on . Can confirm this with someone watching with hood open. Low speed on both fans not working
Of I let the car idle in the for about 15 min then both fans high speed will kick on and run for a short time. Temp guage will always stay around 190. Car never overheats even in 95deg weather.
I tested the fans by jumping the 3 pin connector off the radiator and according to that test it's just the resistors on the low speed. So I ordered the nime control module.
My wife's 2009 Ford Flex has an intermittent radiator cooling fan issue. It has dual cooling fans and with the AC on, the passenger side fan runs wide open but the driver side fan doesn't run. With the AC off, neither fan runs even though I let the car idle for a long time to try and get it hot enough to allow the fan(s) to turn on. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, the passenger side fan runs extremely fast when the AC button is pushed. I've checked all connections and applied some dielectric grease to the connections. I also checked the fuses to the fans. Have to buy the entire dual fan assembly?
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 alero 3400 engine is getting hot again this alero is running with a 2001 impala engine run great for few months, replace radiator, hoses, thermostat and suddenly coolant start leaking in the overflow, fans not working even with ac on, i replace the etc sensor and did not work, the fans turn on when I disconnect the etc sensor so i think the fan motors are ok. I got one pcm module from the salvage yard in case I need to replace it but I read that only the dealer can reprogram the computer system because vin number issues....
View 2 RepliesMy Subaru just had the thermostat replaced, and it seemed to work until the wife took it she said it over heats when not driving the fans are working, it's over flowing out the reserve tank the fluid looked good when changed the thermostat so I don't think it's the head gasket my next guess would be either the water pump... After I last changed the thermostat and test drove it I felt the upper radiator hose it was hot but the bottom one was cool/warm.
View 8 RepliesWell of course with the coldest weekend of the year coming up my heat stops working.
When I'm driving it pulls heat off the engine just fine but stopped it just blows cold air.
My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
So I noticed my temp gauge was starting to rise when I was on the freeway. I figured my fans were out but I just opened my hood and both fans were spinning. When I turned the car off both fans turned off but the temp gauge was almost into the red.
In the morning I turned on my AC and only the passenger side fan was working.
So I am not really sure what my next diagnostic step should be. The engine was not radiating any heat so I am not sure that it is even actually running that hot. Could it possibly be the temperature gauge? If I got a vagcom would I be able to check the actual temperature from there?
I am also concerned on how to find out if the fans are running at both speeds at the appropriate times.
Not sure if this is related but my cruise control stopped working a few weeks ago also.
My 1994 honda accord station wagons cooling fan is working but the temp gauge still goes all the way up then back to normal numerous times while driving.. I park on the side of the road while the car is on, pop the hood to check and see any signs of over heating but the motor seems to be normal.. What could be happening??
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
The heater fan quits working on colder days. It is not the fan motor, as twice after it has quit, several days later the fan began working again. As controls are switched, the indicators light and mode shifting sounds can be heard. It seems to be that the fan quits on the colder days (<38 deg) the will resume working again when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees.
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