Going up hills, I noted the eco lite remained lit during the downshift mandated by cruise control to maintain preset speed. However, during ascent with cruise control off, and slight decrease speed (no downshift) the eco light will go off. Kinda counter intuitive, that slowing down during ascent would be less economical than maintaining set speed during climb.
View 3 RepliesFor some reason, I didn't close my trunk door good last night and I discovered that the trunk remained open all night long, about 12 hours. I am worried that the trunk light may have drained my battery. The car started up just fine with no delays or odd noises.
View 3 RepliesLast night, I changed to winter wheels and drove today with no problem. Just now one the way home, the low tire pressure warning light blinked for a minute and remained on. I checked the tire pressure and all 4 tires are even at 35psi. I tightened all wheels properly at 76 ft/lb using a torque wrench.
View 7 RepliesHave towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
I just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?
The subject: F150, 2007, 5.4L, FX4 version. It has only 80K miles and was very light used by my sister. It seems to me come with a 4R75E ....
Recently I notice a strange vibration every time tranny downshift from 4 to 3, specially noticeable going uphill. Some times can be feel when tranny shift from 3 to 4th...
A friend in my town comment to us, this is a very common condition here because there are just small streets and avenues so that truck shift very frequently betwen 4 to 3 and then back to 4th...
Sounds like a excessive wear on a bearing thrust ??
I have been a long time Lexus owner (ES and 3 RXs), but I am new to the GX. I just got a 2014 GX-40 w/ Premium Package.
The GX has a lot of the same features my previous RXs had, but of course has some improvements (smoother ride, quieter, better stereo sound, real 4WD).
1) The RX had a console that had the USB connection in it. I found it very handy to just leave my iPod plugged in there. I just had to switch the Source in the radio whenever wanted to listen to it. Since it was in the console, it was out of sight from thieves. On the GX, my iPod won't fit in the small area where the USB ports are. I don't know if an iPod touch would even fit, and they have much less music storage anyway.
2) The GX obviously weighs more than the RX, and it has a V8 engine. Some portions of the power band in the GX seem to be peppier, but overall, the GX feels a little more sluggish. Sometimes I manually downshift the transmission to pass a vehicle, etc. Are there any other alternatives?
Since the outside temperatures fell to teens and sometimes into single digits, I noted that my RX has developed something I do not remember from the past two winters: in the morning, the RX has poor downshift quality - when I start driving it upshifts just fine, but when I need to slow down it "feels" like the transmission wants to stay in higher gear, that is it downshifts but later than I would expect and I can feel the downshift as well. After driving for 2-3 min. the problem disappears. I always warm up my RX for at least two minutes or to the point when the tach reading is <1K rpm
I called the dealer and the SA told me that in cold weather I should warm it up "for at least 15 to 20 minutes, if you don't you may damage your transmission". When I told him that idling the engine does not warm the transmission because the insides of the transmission do not move, he replied "It's true but the pump is working and the fluid is moving."
I recently just purchased a 2011 Lexus RX350 AWD... I would like to ask on the downshift while slowdown the car.... Every once in a while I feel the tranny down shift while slowing down... It's not harsh or anything, but just enough to have a slight feel. Like a backlash? Is this normal? I also have 09 GS350 AWD.. It's so smooth that I can't feel the downshift at all...
View 11 RepliesI purchased my 2014 GX a couple of months ago and already logged in about 2K. The car has been great so far. The only thing that I'm not so used to, is a strange feeling when accelerating or going uphill (even slightly) - I can feel the engine roar(?) through the steering wheel - I can't really describe it well - it's not a vibration per se, but more like you feel the engine working harder than usual through the slight vibration of the steering wheel. This is my first V8 car - I used to have a V6 Acura MDX before, and never felt that. There is a good chance this is normal for a V8 based truck, but I wanted to get others' input.
View 9 RepliesI was attempting to open the underbody shield(s) to replace my transfer case fluid. Unfortunately, the front screw has sheared off. Part of the screw body is still inside, while the head fell off.
What to do? I was hoping they were more robust. Maybe that's how most screws are in the winter-exposed areas.
My tire pressure light flashed for a while and then remained lit for several minutes during a several-hundred-mile roadtrip a few days ago. The vehicle did not pull, drag, or show any sign of tire problems, and when I checked the pressure on all four tires the next morning they were fine.
View 13 RepliesI've had my new Touareg for less than a month, and only had one problem so far, my headlights. On 2 separate occasions after parking (daylight, only my DRL was on) and turning off my engine, the first time, the headlamps remained on and the other incident, one blinker light remained on and had "frozen".
I made sure that all the light switches were off (even turning them on and off), made sure the hi beams were off, keys were out of the ignition, even tried turning the engine on and off. Eventually lights turned off after restarting the car the 4 th time.
Now, I wonder with all these "battery drain" concerns? an unchecked headlight/or blinker (during daylight you can miss this, and no warning signals from that the lights are infact on).
This morning when I shifted to drive mode, the door locks remained unlocked. When I parked the car and tried to lock by touching the door handle, it didn't lock. Then I tried using the hand remote and it didn't. Finally, I had to manually lock each door. 2010 ES350....
View 8 RepliesI have an intermittent issue where the tiggy seems to downshift harshly to 1st when coming to a stop while in D. Almost like dropping the clutch but not enough to chirp the tires - just enough to feel a thump. I figure it's related to the engine braking "feature" of this car but doing it incorrectly. It seems as though once it's happening, it stays like that for a while, but the next day for example, it will be fine.
I've been observing it for some time now and it doesn't seem temperature specific. In fact, I have a hunch it might be electronic even since if I turn off ESC it stops occurring. Turning off brake auto-hold doesn't make a difference either (this is turned off automatically if ESC is shut off).
I hate taking my car into the dealer for intermittent issues... they are notorious at dismissing something if it doesn't happen right then and there in front of their face. Thought maybe I should check the forums incase their's a TSB or something to fix this exact issue or if it's just unique to my tig.
2010 (build date 8/09) 4motion SE btw, w/ 5k miles
I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
View 14 RepliesOkay so with my old Accent I had the same Magnaflow exhaust I have now on the Elantra. Sounds identical with one exception; When I'd down shift with my Accent I'd get some popping coming from the exhaust. I get no such sound with my current set-up. Now I know some people don't like it but I do.
So my question is simple... Would removing the resonator (assuming the Elantra's have one) or doing something else to the exhaust give me back my wonderful popping sound?
The car is a 2010 Corolla S with about 85K miles, I bought used in Jan 2015. This problem mostly happens when I am using the cruise control. I will be going up a hill at about 65 and regularly but not always the trany will downshift with a very hard "bang" like running over a pipe. It will make the shifts in a normal smooth manner at other times going up hills in cruise control. This hard shift is very abrupt and startling if not ready for it. In can do this when not in cruise control if at highway speed in accelerate to pass but not as consistent. It has not done it at in town driving.
I took it to the dealer, as I had a warranty, and took the tech for a ride so he could feel it. I was told the next day the warranty company says this is "normal" behavior. I do not believe this to be normal.
Happened today during the snow storm. I never drive in auto when it's snowing. I usually use the first 3 gears to get around, this allows me to engine brake, which reduces the slipping and sliding greatly.
Anyways, today my car ( after 3 winters and many snow events ) decided to disable the 1st gear ??? I have tried turning the snow mode on / off as well as the VSC , but the car would not give me the 1st gear back
Eventually it released it and I was a happy camper again. Below is the message I was getting every time I tried to down shift.
Lexus IS350 ... Noticed a reasonably quiet clunk from the car when coming to a stop? It happens when the transmission automatically shifts into 1st gear with your foot on the brakes.
I noticed that in my car, you can feel a slight lurch forward as the transmission downshifts into first when approaching a stop sign. If I am barely on the brakes, I feel the slight lurch but don't hear anything. Under normal braking, that slight lurch happens along with a clunk. You wouldn't hear it with the radio on, but it's very repeatable and with the windows down you can hear it as well coming from under the car somewhere.
So, I was in Wash. State for a while this month and rented a Prius. I decided to check some mileage on mountain roads, and here's what I got. All of these are indicated by the computer, so they are probably 5% or so high. Unfortunately, I did not see either the maximum incline or average incline of these roads posted anywhere, so unless someone else knows them, these numbers are not worth too much scientifically:
UPHILL:
Going uphill on I-90 to Snoqualmie Pass from the West (from Seattle), at 70 mph (the speed limit), fairly steady, with a few decreases for traffic and curves: 18.6 mpg.
Going uphill on US 97 to Blewitt Pass from the north at 50 mph, also the speed limit: 27 mpg.
Going uphill on the Olympic National Park road to Hurricane Ridge, speed limit varying between 35 and 25, with a couple of sections as low as 15 mph: 22.1 mpg. (Maximum incline here might have been 6 or 7 percent).
On the Hurricane Ridge road, I reset the Trip Meter A about a mile from the top (interestingly both segments of the uphill trip registered 22.1).
DOWNHILL, mostly:
The Hurricane Ridge downhill produced an interesting number, because I didn't reset the thing at the top, so I had a mile of 22.1 mpg at the beginning. You go down for about 18 miles, losing about 5200 feet of altitude to nearly sea level (Strait of Juan de Fuca). We kept driving, and at 24.7 miles (so about 6 miles of driving near sea level), the mileage gauge still showed 99.9 mpg. (I took a picture, but it's too fuzzy to put in here.) It was a couple of more miles before I noticed that the trip mpg was down to about 91.