Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Car Stuck In Neutral In Cold Weather
Nov 19, 2014
My wife has a 2010 RX-350 which had to have the transmission replaced a few weeks ago. She has run into an issue when it's cold that the car seems to be stuck in neutral as she applies the gas and it just creeps. This most recent time, the "Check Engine" light came on the message "Check AWD" on the dash. Lexus says they can't find anything wrong except slightly low Transmission Fluid.
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I purchased a 2013 RX450h in May. Now that it's getting cold I've noticed that when I start the car I get a moderately loud "whirring" sound from the dash for the first few minutes after I start the vehicle. It sounds similar to a cassette tape being rewound or something. It seems to originate from inside the dash, behind the CD player and other controls. This only happens when it's quite cold out (below freezing or thereabout).
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With the temps at a all time low in the U.S. this week, my TPMS warning light has come on in my 2012 RX350. It will stay very cold for most of the week, so is it ok to drive with my warning light on.
I don't want to check my psi in the tires with a tire gauge because I was told a valve stem can freeze open in extreme cold letting the tire to go completely flat.
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The 4 wheel stick shift is stuck between H and L and would not engage either .. what can be done..
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I am the proud new owner of an 2004 GX 470 4X4 with 103K. I don't know how much cross over there is to tundra solutions. But, I own a 2000 Tundra, and I've been over there for a while as Listen Up Sonny. Anyway, I purchased the truck with two issues:
1. The 90K maintenance has been "deferred." I'm getting it into the shop for timing belt, waterpump, pulleys, and seals. I am going to do the spark plugs and fluids.
2. The issue I am still trying to figure out is that the dash shift indicator light for the High/Low gear shifter is stuck in Neutral. By this, I mean no matter where you shift the gear, the light indicates "N." I don't believe the transfer case is actually stuck in neutral since the car drives fine. I can get the center differential to lock and unlock. I am not sure if the transfer case will shift into Low as I couldn't really tell when testing it on a dirt low.
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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My wife started up my 2005 GX470 this morning to go to work and drove maybe a half mile before she noticed a problem. So she turned around and drove it back home in limp mode. She put it in park and got out.
Most of the Warning Lights are on ( VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, Anti Skid, Check Engine etc). I tried moving the shift lever but there was some resistance and some grinding noises. And it now seems to be stuck in neutral.
How to diagnose this myself? We only drive this vehicle in the winter, and it was fine the last time we used it.
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I notice if I drive on anything other than a smooth road the suspension squeaks a lot. Is this normal when its -30C or -22F? Car has 30000km and is 2.5 years old if that makes a difference.
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Uneven throttle response during cold weather engine warm-up? When sub freezing weather arrived a few weeks ago my 2010 Prius developed uneven acceleration during engine warm-up. The car was purchased in October and it ha less than 3,000 miles.
Gradual depression of the accelerator results in a very small, tiny in fact, amount of increasing power to the wheels, not in proportion to the usual smooth and responsive amount of cold starts above freezing temperatures.
Continued depression leads to a point about halfway to the floor when the engine, which of course has been running all along, suddenly surges and the car takes off with a jolt of power. Not smooth, impossible to control well and unacceptable. Many would say this is unsafe.
My 2005 Prius never had, and my wife's 2007 does not have this issue. Could be a cold weather related accelerator defect as with the Camrys, but this is not mechanical sticking as was the case with the Camrys, its an electronics error like a faulty sensor or cold start injector.
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In our recent -20 F cold spell in Chicago, I noticed the ride got very stiff, have others experienced this in very cold weather? My theory is that the oil in the shocks or dampers become extra viscous at these temps and the cold shocks causes the ride to becomes like that of a Honda Civic with a dropped suspension. (It's so amusing to watch those Civic "low riders" going over railroad crossings, but it's all image right????)
Anyway I would think the colder temps would lower the air pressure in the tires, softening the tires a bit, but perhaps the rubber hardens counteracting that benefit. I have Michelin Primacy BTW. Since temps went back up above about +10 F ride seem to be OK again.
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I read about the white smoke and I found that is normal in cold weather!! Is that true and what do you think ?
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Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
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I have a 2006 Pri with 194,000 miles on it that has been dead reliable & owes me nothing really, now developing a serious problem. Only when it is below about 10 deg F I will get total failure of the power braking system on or shortly after startup Has happened on 3 days this winter. ABS light, Brake warning, continuous high pitched beep (very annoying warning the driver of immanent death!
When this happens I get almost no movement on the brake pedal. It's rock hard & acts pretty much like loosing power brakes on any car (ie. you will eventually stop, but not a safe condition). There is no transition to this condition. It's either "everything normal" or total failure. Brake fluid reads half way between min & max and looks clean, no sign of moisture, but has never been flushed.
The last time it happened I was leaving work, couldn't swap cars... so I drove straight to the dealer (white knuckled). Dealer calls the next day saying it's the Brake Actuator needing replacement. I told them I wasn't spending that & to look again for a cheaper problem like Fluid, 12v battery, Relay...
No dice. They confirm it's the actuator.
The code they read is C1256. They "checked resistance at actuator pins & found high resistance at pins 1&2." I'm thinking about just topping up the fluid a bit more, or getting the fluid flushed & changed, or changing the 12v battery (I need to check voltage on next cold morning), or just not driving it at those temps & hoping it doesn't get worse.
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The drivers window on my 2016 Elantra freezes up with ice in cold weather. How can I safely unfreeze it?
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It's been extremely cold in the northeast recently (<20 degrees), and I've noticed that my suspension has been very noisy (clunking type noises) when I'm driving on uneven roads or bumps. Is this normal? Is there something I can do to alleviate it?
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I drove my car downtown this morning. It was 7 degrees outside! - The windshield/dash rattle is no longer a rattle noise. It sounds like two Styrofoam boxes that are next to each other making a loud rubbing/creaking noise. I can hear it over the radio! I don't even have to go over a bump! Just turning in a curve in the road where the car leans slightly will produce this noise.
This problem is so un-Lexus like that I cannot believe it! - We are not talking new technology here folks! Cars have had Windshields and Dashes for over 80 years. Lexus had this problem solved when they released their first car! I have never owned a car that has done this. I am betting even a Yugo would not have this problem!
My car is going to the dealer on Monday to fix this problem. Luckily my dealer has said they have fixed this problem before and have never had it re-occur. We'll see about that! This is the only thing that is wrong with my GS350 in over a year of ownership. What I cannot believe is that Lexus knew about this problem in 2006 vehicles and it is still there in 2007! This is not rocket science! I will be very interested in hearing if this problem is truly corrected in the 2008 models!
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My car usually is park in the garage. I was out of town this weekend and parked outside in 30 degrees weather, then my ML system's HDD won't start up. No GPS, no HDD audio and no voice command? It work again this morning after it sat in the garage overnight. I think this happened before last year also. Can I get the dealer to replace the HDD with my platinum extended warranty?
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With the colder weather in the NE, I am experiencing lower mpg with the ES 300h. We have had several cold days here, and my mpg seems to be going down. My driving habits have not changed.
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I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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I am aware that cold weather will decrease your tire pressure, but what is throwing me off is how quickly my rear tires seems to be losing pressure?
I park outside overnight, and it gets down to about 25 degrees F here at night. My front tires I run at about 38-40 PSI, and I JUST filled the rears up on Saturday to the same. I start my car this morning and both my rear tires are sitting at 30 PSI. This has happened ever since the dealer took my my wheels to refinish the rims about a month ago. Is there something they could have done that would be causing this? The can't think of a reason as to why the front tires are fine and the rear keep loosing pressure.
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My 2007 ES UL has started to peel at the edge of the glass of the rear roof panel. It was originally just at the rear corner and I assumed it must have been scratched and the due to dryness started to peel. Then I noticed it at the other rear corner. I asked them to look at it at the dealer and the service advisor told me it was from the UV rays which dried it out, and not to worry about it. I bought and applied einszett gummi pflege stift to those corners and all seemed well.
Now that it got colder here in NY the corners again began to pop up but today I see it's started to pop out very much in the middle of the panel which seemed fine before!! The SA had told me that this (gasket, molding) comes attached to the roof and to fix it I'd have to replace the panel! I'm scared my UL is sick of the panoramic roof just for show and wants to be able to open.
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