Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Brakes Start Pulsating - Engine Comes On And Off Without Any Reason
May 2, 2015
I was in the RX450h with my son, everything's fine, its running smooth like a purring cat. I get to the bottom of the hill at a traffic light and stop with my foot on the brake.
Then it just started pulsating, engine comes on, goes off, comes on again, goes off - almost like a pressure washer with an internal leak
It went away after 30 s or so and hasn't come back. No engine lights or hybrid system warnings.
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My alarm went off for no explainable reason today. My car is parked in front of my house and all of a sudden I hear an alarm going off. Now, I've never heard my own alarm so I wasn't even aware it was mine until it kept going and I realized it might be mine. So I went to look out the window and I couldn't decipher where the sound was coming from because there's a lot of cars around here
So for the heck of it, I grabbed my fob and kept pressing buttons to see if it would go off. I was so flustered and nothing went off so I thought it wasn't mine. Then I held down the red button and it finally went off.
Does it mean someone tried to open my door? What warnings should I look for on the dash when I go in there for the first time after shutting off the alarm?
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A couple times in the last month or two, my park assist comes on for apparently no reason. I am stopped at a light, with no one in front of me, and it starts beeping rapidly as if someone were almost touching the front of the car. Last night I noticed it again, this time it was snowing somewhat.
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I just bought a certified 2011 RX 450h and my sirius keeps going back and forth to no signal for no reason. I've had sirius for 9 years in other cars and it's never had this bad of reception. It's at the dealer now but the loaner 2013 RX350 they gave me does the same thing. None of my other cars perform this way on these same roads. Had this poor reception problem, what has been done to remedy?
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Having an interesting issue with my 2013 Elentra Limited ....
A couple times now the factory alarm will start going off by for no reason. This was confirmed by my neighbor, who was sitting outside when it started going off the last time with nobody around it. Also, when this happens, the alarm button the on key fob will not stop the alarm, only unlocking the car will stop it.
Also, after this happens, I can no longer set the alarm (pressing the lock button twice and hearing the car honk once) for usually at least a few hours if not a day. what happens is that i press the lock button and you hear the doors lock but if you keep hitting the lock button, the doors just keep locking, the car never honks.
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I just had new rear drums put on, my front brake pads are new, my rotors are good...but there is still a pulsating when I brake. When I am just about slowed down you can definitely feel a surging coming from somewhere. The steering wheel does not shake, and I don't feel more than a vibration from the brake pedal. I have taken it to 3 mechanics and replacing the drums was given as a solution. But since I have already done that, the problem is obviously not resolved. I know I need new tires as 2 of them are really cupped and loud...could that be it?
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Got new brakes 4 months ago - except this time put in redstuff ceramic pads.
I've had really bad vibration and grinding lately so I just had the rotors machined and cleaned up.
Some of the vibration is gone but when I apply the brakes more than very lightly I get shaking shuddering including the steering wheel. If I apply the brakes harder it goes away.
I would estimate the pulsating/shuddering/shaking happens when I apply the brakes more than 10 percent up to say 40-50 percent. Very light pressure no problems and hard braking no issues.
This has gotten worse since the servicing. What could be causing this? I've already replaced the propshaft and am replacing the tires.
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I don't use my car much, and park it on the street. I last drove it 3 weeks ago, and it did great on a 6 hour trip. It is worth noting that until this year, the car had lived in Washington, and this 6 hour trip was the first welt salted road experience the car has ever had.
Today, I go to drive it, and the first time I hit the brakes, I'm greeted by the entire car shaking and the brake pedal pulsating. My first thought was "wow, are the roads really that icy? that's a lot of ABS...". I then realized this was absurd, the roads are clearly dry and this doesn't quite feel like ABS (although it's a very similar feeling at high speeds). My next thought was that I must have ice in the pads, it'll melt off soon. So I drove 20 minutes, and it didn't improve. I turned around, and drove home.
When I first moved the car, I had to give it gas to get it to go and heard a snap. I assume this was it being stuck in ice as I hadn't driven for a while and it was very cold. It could have been something breaking, though.
I have since taken off all the wheels, visually inspected the drum brakes for any damage (pads look fine). I looked at the disc brakes and they looked fine. One of the caliper slide pins was completely seized, so I was hoping that'd fix it, but it had no effect at all.
The brake fluid level is full. I seriously doubt this is warped discs, because it drove perfect last time I used it and it was spontaneously so bad today.
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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Here's the story, got in my car yesterday and the AC wasnt working, after driving for about 20 minutes in traffic, the AC came back on, about 5 mins and half a mile later, the engine shut off and wouldn't start up again. Had the car towed to the closest garage (not a VW mechanic). This morning, he tried to start it and it fired right up with no problems. He drove it and let it run and everything seemed fine. He ran diagnostics on it and said the computer didn't detect any problems. Picked up the car, and now the AC is blowing hot air, but the engine seems to be running ok.
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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I recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
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So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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I've noticed on a few occasions (maybe 3 or 4 times total) on my 2005 V8 (about 2.5 months old and 2000 miles) that the brakes seem go into "ABS mode" for no apparent reason. No rain and no snow etc. As I depress the brake normally or even lightly it takes over and reacts like I slammed on the brakes. Then everything returns to normal.
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A lot of times I jump out of the car to grab stuff but my wife and kid stay in the car and would like the radio to stay on but with the engine off.
Is there a quick way to go from engine on to just electricity on?
Or is it 2 step process, press start button to turn engine off, then press start button again to go to electricity only on?
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On a handful of occasions, when I start my 450H, there is a noticeable vibration that lasts a few minutes and goes away. It's usually happened on really cold days in Texas. This morning, it was very warm, it didn't vibrate but made some click sounds for several minutes. I'm still under warranty...
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I just purchased a 2010 RX 350, has only 7k miles on it. Really, really nice car. I noticed for the first time yesterday the engine ticking/knocking/rattling/whatever you want to call it sound when starting up on a cold start. It definitely goes away after about 5-10 minutes of running.
Most people seem to accept this as "normal". They hear it, live with it, and they never have any problems. I am a new Lexus owner, so I have trouble digesting that such a luxury vehicle with so few miles would have a "normal" engine knocking sound at 7,000 miles.
A few people posted in other places that this is indeed an issue, and should not be happening. There is a a Toyota (Lexus) service bulletin that I didn't get the details on, it is LSB-0028-09. LEXUS: ENGINE TICKING NOISE AND/OR MIL ON P0014, P0015, P0024, P0025, P0017, OR P0018. ENGINE MECHANICAL. *PE
Looking for details on this service bulletin, and if it does indeed apply to the engine knocking sound.
- Premium gas
- High viscosity cold synthetic oil
- Dealer fixes issue
- Other fix?
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05 GX 470...no KDDS...100k miles. When I've been driving a few miles, I feel a pulsating when braking. Feels like it's coming from the front (front left if I had to guess). I put in new rotors and brakes in the front, turned the back rotors and problem still persists, no improvement.
I'm now considering the hub-bearing. However, when I do the standard-check (lift wheel and apply stress from top/bottom) there's no indication of a bad hub bearing.
The problem worsens as I drive faster. When on the highway, if I start to turn the wheel right 'then' brake...the steering wheel pulsates bad. When I turn the wheel left 'then' brake, it's not as bad...but still noticeable. When I start pressing the brake pedal 'then' start to turn the wheel right it's still there but not as bad compared to applying the brake after turning.
There's no pulsation in the break pedal, only the steering wheel and body/chassis.
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Bought a second hand 2010 prius a couple of months ago. Between about 58 and 68 mph I get a pulsating hum and slight vibration that seems to come from the front of the car. Each pulse lasts about a second then appears again in another second. It's there when going straight and worse if I go round a tight right hand bend and reduces round a left hand bend. If I lift off the accelerator it makes no difference.
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My car gives off a pulsating vibration when I'm stopped (at a light, or in my driveway, for example). Its as if someone with huge bass is sitting next to me, but I'm alone. Its a weird "jerking" feel where I can feel my seat shake like a mini earthquake.
I've tried researching "rough idle" but don't fully understand it. Rough idle implies a clogged intake, which kind of makes sense I guess. I have something better than "my car kinda vibrates when I'm stopped".
Its a 2012 Elantra Limited, all stock everything, 53981 miles.
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What is this metal on metal noise...you hear it the best around the 7-12 second mark...it is especially loud on cold start in the morning when you put the car in "drive" but don't move the car forward. It also is prevalent on hot days when you park the car outside and just start the car. The sound gets louder when you turn on the a/c during the hot day.
2010 2011 lexus engine noise metal noise - YouTube...
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