Lexus RX 2010-15 :: 2014 - Rear Main Seal Leak At 8700 Miles
Jun 27, 2014
2014 RX 350 - 8700 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak
Very disappointed that my new RX with only 8700 miles and has never even had an oil change now has a rear main seal leak. The dealership says that the gasket was defective and that there is no other visible damage. The dealership has filed a case with Lexus corporate.
Granted that it will soon be fixed at no cost to me, it's still very disappointing that a brand I hold so high for quality has let me down in such a big way.
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Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
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2014 RX 350 - 10,300 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak #2
Brought car into the dealership to repair my rear main for a second time. Looks like every 5,000 miles the leak shows up.
The dealership has repaired the rear main seal a second time, and guess what?
Two days later at the dealership the car started leaking oil again.
So now it's been identified that the entire short block needs to be replaced. Should take another week to repair.
This has been the worst experience I've ever had with a new car. Now I have a relatively new car (10,300 miles) that has had 2 rear main seals repaired, a short block replaced, replaced front parking sensors, and a radio that displays the wrong time when first starting the car.
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I wanted to bring attention to an oil leak I discovered today. It appears to be from the rear main seal. My Passat is a 2015 1.8Tsi with the 09G auto. You can see the leak with the belly pan on. From the front of the car, looking through the vent for the transmission pan look at the lowest point on the bellhousing there is a small machined flat area. Pictured is that area (with the pan off). There is also oil on the back side of the bellhousing on one of the main bolts between the block and trans. The three rear bolts on the pan need to come off to see that one. I would recommend looking at this area on your Passat. Currently my Passat has 3,490 miles on. It's not a terrible leak, but it is worse than what should be present on a modern, new vehicle.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
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My girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
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If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
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Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
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Our 2010 AWD RX350 developed a rear differential oil leak (passenger side) at the drive shaft lip seal. Has 80,000.
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New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
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My daughter has a 2000 intrepid with i believe a 2.7 engine. the rear main seal is leaking.
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Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
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We have a 97 f150 4x4, I have pulled the transmission for repair. The rear main seal is not leaking however I have always replaced them when I pulled a tranny. This is a 5.4l and after removing the flywheel I noticed there is another cover around the crankshaft held on by 8mm bolts around the side and 2 oil pan bolts on the bottom. Does this cover come off to fully access the seal? Is there a gasket available for this cover or is silicone the standard?
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Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
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2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
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So about 2k miles ago I went to start my tiguan (cold start) and it starts to idle very rough, barely keeps itself from stalling so I take it to the dealer the next day and they tell me the car needs carbon cleaning and a rear main seal and wanted about $2500 to do all this. I declined the service since it was a lot of money to just drop then and there. I am wondering/worried there are other issues along with the rear seal leaking or if its just something else causing the issue. I looked under the car and most of the bottom of the motor is soaked in oil. I have not done the auto trans service on the car and was wondering if that could have had anything to do with the leak. The other thing about it is once the car gets up to temp it runs totally fine. AND once in a while it will start up fine, no rough idle. That probably happens about 20% of the time (I do at least 4 starts throughout the day). The car current has 92k miles on it. What it could be/what I should do?
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I am tearing down my junkyard engine to prep it to put into my truck and I came across this on the rear main seal... is this a wear ring?
It kinda looks like a oil slinger. My new seal is on the way so I have nothing to compare it to.
I don't want to be yanking on it if it's supposed to stay.
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Where I can find a good description of the 2.0 (engine code AVH) PCV system?
This may not be a source of many problems since I find so little on it. My son has a 2003 Golf 2.0. From the little, pretty non-definitive, info that I find it appears that there may not be a problem with its crankcase vent system but it would be nice to be able to find something to understand it better. It's leaking from the rear main seal. We're gonna fix that but don't want to have it reoccur because we didn't fix a potential cause of it.
I've found a couple of references that are observation based:
(1) Loosen the oil filler cap. If it bounces/pulses up and down then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(2) Remove the oil filler cap. If the engine starts idling like it has a vacuum leak the the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(3) Remove/loosen the oil dupstick. If the engine starts to idle rough then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
There seems to be nothing but a couple of hoses involved in the particular engine's PCV system. Not much to trace and nowhere is there any kind of valve, diaphram, etc. that I would expect to find. Can someone either explain this particular version of VW's PCV systems or point me toward a good source?
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